Ther's also a surface mounted version that might be easier to fit:
I will be fitting some new windows to our house in June and I want to add sensors to them so that I can tell windows have been left open by SWMBO and not to run the heating in that room.
For the internal/external doors I have been installing these sensors as recommended by Karam/Viv
Before I look at installing these in the windows anything else anybody is using??
we've these on our list - just simple drilling to fit flush & v.neatly :
much depends on where they're to go exactly, of course - available depth & clearances being major factors ...
Chubb do locks with microswitches built-in, but we've not had any success with actually being able to buy them !
these are also on our list :
we've new windows arriving soon, too - aluminium frames & we couldn't persuade the makers to include sensors, so we're now sure yet what we'll do about them ...
Last edited by chris_j_hunter; 20th May 2011 at 06:55 PM.
I do know that it is possible to void the warranty on your windows and doors if you start installing sensors etc. Even if its only 2 small screws. Best to check with the window supplier.
IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.
many thanks, I do recall - could I point the guys who are making the doors in your direction, so they can install during manufacture ?
Yup, PM me an email address if you don't mind. Can give you more details then.
I also found that window manufacturers would not supply windows with sensors, however the firm we chose (local UPVC makers) did humour me and said I've have to explain what I wanted to the installers.
In advance I ran a cat5 cable to each window (from MFP/DFP position) and then the installers fed the cable into the frame as they fitted it.
I then used a flush mount sensor of the type recommended on Gumby's blog, v similar to the maplin ones Chris mentions. What I found is that unlike a wooden window where the moving part and the frame are in close proximity, UPVC windows have a large ~10mm gap between frame and opening window, so I have had to push the flush mounted contacts proud of the frame to get the sensor to operate correctly. contacts I used have wires hanging out the back and in reality getting the wires and the stiff cat5 cable back into the frame was more tricky than I expected. I have since used the the larger InteliSense (from screwfix) which I have found easier to fit.
I was caught out by the change of Inputs on the change from MFP to DFP; the MFP has 2 DIs plus an ability to wire a PIR in line with the panel's PIR sensor. This is not there on the DFP so at some point I will have to stop using the spare twisted pair in Idranet cable to the DFP position and use this for the sensor, as I've run a radially to each room from a central point for each floor this should be possible.
I think my recommendation would now be to keep "security" and Idranet wiring separate so each room has door, window and PIR cables for security back to a security node and a separate cable for Idranet. I made use of the distributed nature of Idranet, so cables for a room go back to DFP position, but it is limiting on expansion now the devices have changed. I cannot add more sensors (of the types Chris mentions) to the room either.
So back to sensor choice... The intelisense ones are good, you may have enough room inside the frame for the surface mount versions.
Locks with sensors on sound brilliant, but I cannot make use of it as insufficient DIs where my cables terminate.
Last edited by JonS; 22nd May 2011 at 02:05 PM.
Is it not easier to use microswitches? That way only the frame or window needs tweaking.
micro-switches or reed-switches - key factor, ISTM, is clarity of the switch - ie: system could have problems if there should be (as it were) a chatter-zone ... and micro-switches might be more difficult in this regard ... (??)