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Thread: Question about Evohome Install

  1. #1
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    Default Question about Evohome Install

    Hi Guys,
    I am finally getting my Evohome installed tomorrow as I was waiting to have a new hot water tank installed. I have a vented system, and I will be running 10 HR92 valves. I also bought the base kit and the hot water kit. The hot water tank is now under the boiler, so my question is do I need to install separate wireless relay boxes (bdr91) for the boiler and hot water tank, even if they are going to be next to each other?? Is this also quite straight forward for a plumber to install? I am fine with the setup, its just the connection to the boiler and tank I am not too sure about..

    Also with the hr92's installed, i have had them setup for a while running with the normal programmer as a test, and I have noticed that they need to be calibrated for each room - the temp seems to be a bit off. Is this usual to have to do this??

    Thanks guys. Nick

  2. #2
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    Signing up to this site will provide you with most of the information that you need:

    http://youlearn.honeywelluk.com/index.php

    I have an unvented tank with two motorised valves. Both valves are controlled (CH and HW) and both have their own BDR91 - separated by the required distance.

    Temperature Compensation. I assume that this is what you are talking about:

    Parameter 8 Temperature offset
    Since the radiator controller measures the room temperature in the area of the radiator, it is possible that this temperature deviates from the temperature measured at a different point in the room.
    If, for example, 20 C is measured in the room and 21.0 C at the radiator, this effect can be compensated by an offset of 1.0 C. NB: the factory offset setting is 0 but it can be adjusted in the range +3 to -3C.

    Rather than fiddle with the HR92, I tend to make the adjustment on the target temp on the controller.

  3. #3

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    Nick - The BDR91 is a wireless relay. The above configuration you descibe depends on how your heating is setup. For instance I have a 'Y' plan and therefore have a BDR for each setting on the valve (one for HW and other for CH) - with a BDR on the boiler to control the firing. The training mentioned will help. But there are many installers out there who can help also. Even if its just to wiring it in.

    Temp calibration - this is a big topic which comes up ALL the time. We have calls from people who are measuring the temp by holding thermometer next to the device and expecting a correlation (not realising their hand is providing added heat etc), and others that have many sensors in the room and see hot and cold spots even within their space. The HR92 measures the upwards draught temp. The air rising from the floor. (sensors are behind the LCD). Due to the way thermo dynamics of the room this is the best gauge of the 'last' tempertature of the room. (imagine the air circulating, rising flowing across the room, cooling, falling down and then coming back to the raditator) The fuzzy logic computer then uses this data to constantly measure the room's behaviour. The evohome system attempts to keep the room at a regulated temperature. Some days it will over shoot, to allow for the gradual fall (giving the longest average). It takes 7-10 days for the evohome system to fully learn the signature of the room. Once done it is constantly learning after that.

    My advice - go on what you feel and adjust accordingly. There are deeper settings within the HR92 to allow for adjustments, but we have found in most cases the HR92 is correct in judging the rooms ambient temp.

  4. #4
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    Rameses - I am following this thread and your detailed explanation above is most helpful. Now that Winter seems to have arrived, my CH is on and I have noticed that the TRVs in some rooms overshoot - but we are early in the 10 day period. A follow on question if I may? In some rooms, the HR92s are more active than in others (depending on how the room is used). Is battery life really 2 years as stated by Honeywell? What quality of batteries are people tending to use? The ones supplied look to be pretty standard. Any thoughts on re-chargeable battery use? I am assuming that knowing when the batteries need replacing is just a case of keeping an eye on each and every TRV. I have 21!

  5. #5

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    Batteries - I am 9 months in on my install, (so had the tail end of Spring) and I am on 2 out of 3 bars. Honeywell does state 2 years as a guide under normal use. It should do 2 heating seasons which in theory is , 3 years (if you get my math). Obviously this depends on the battery. Market stall cheap ones will perform exactly as they do on Christmas day - dissapointingly. The ones supplied by Honeywell are above standard grade. (you can tell by the weight). Honeywell would advocate use common sense. Many long life batteries found in supermarkets or branded products are more than enough. You could do rechargeables, but - the 'lossy' nature of rechargeables is more significant than standard batteries (ie if left alone a rehcargeable battery discharges on its own accord, where as static batteries have a longer shelf life) - and considering we are talking 'years' and not months. I think rechargable batteries would need to be 'revisited' a lot more.

    Overshoot - Honeywell is creating a whitepaper on this to help people understand why the controls do what they do. It also depends on what you measure as an over shoot. Getting like for like temperature readings is hard. (eg we have people hold thermometers next to the HR92, expecting to see the same temp. But our HR92 also takes into account radiator distance / radiation.)
    Within 10 days you can expect your HR92's to be very very very active. Especially right now. And even occupancy has an impact (100-150w per person) This is becuase they are desperatly learning the cause and effect of what they do to your room. When Honeywell deliver this 'whitepaper' you will see just how much work they do with PWM (pulse width modulation) and how a boiler really should work (effectively)

    I hope this helps a little - I will post the whitepaper link as soon as its done. In the meantime try to leave it alone :-)

    PS Dont worry about keeping an eye on them - the unit will tell you centrally on the controller when the batteries need replacing (and in which room)
    Last edited by Rameses; 26th November 2014 at 11:09 AM.

  6. #6

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    Two years from the reasonable quality AA batteries is not an over-statement, I'd recently changed the batteries in my HR80s fitted to towel rails in my house (room heating is via wet underfloor) as I'd just started to get the low battery warning. On opening up the battery compartment I realised they were still using the original batteries from 2007! I also went round and changed the batteries in my HCF82s as these were also the original batteries for the same period! So depending on how much the motors move then the batteries should easily last 2 years.

    Rechargeable batteries are not recommended as their voltage drops dramatically as they discharge which will give you battery warnings very soon after fitting.
    Sensible Heat
    SensibleHeat.co.uk

  7. #7
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    Thanks both: your knowledge and time is appreciated. There are clearly significant gaps in my knowledge about this system. I was not aware, for instance, that I would get battery warnings on the controller. Having had the system in operation for the past few days, even my slightly sceptical wife is starting to see the advantages of zoning.

  8. #8
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    Just want to say thanks for all your input. We have had a few delays and the plumber came around today. Unfortunately he had some difficulty setting up the new system. I did give him the number for evohome store post sales support but they were busy with an installation. He is coming back on Saturday to finish up but I want to get as much info for him as possible. I have seen the different wiring plans but not too.sure what one I have. If I describe what I have hopefully you guys can point me in the right direction.

    We have an open vented system. We have had a new cold tank and new hot tank installed. Pretty much the only thing being kept is the boiler (glow worm) and rads. We have 2 controls. One is a programmable control for the central heating and hot water. And the other one is a dial thermostat. We have also had new pumps installed and a 3 port something. It is really just trying to get the the 2 transmitters attached to the boiler and hot water tank. After that I can do the rest. Again any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Nick

  9. #9

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    1) Get your plumber to ring the the installer line - the getconnected/evohome line is for consumer pre-sales - Installers can ring the professional number here http://www.honeywelluk.com/contact/ (08457 678999 is available from: Monday -Thursday 09:00 - 17:00 Friday 09:00 - 16:00)

    2) He should have taken the training - if not then quickly do (or you do) http://youlearn.honeywelluk.com/ - anyone can take this - and after the small session - I reckon this will answer most if not all of your questions.

    3) If you really get stuck (which you shouldnt do as what you have is a normal instal - DM me your installers details and we will contact him

    What you decribe is a simple install - more wiring than plumbing. (assuming valves on radiators are ready) - and I appreciate this could be confusing. But you describe a Y plan system which is well within scope of many installers. We know many installers find it a little daunting - which is why we are trying to encourage as many as possible to not just open up the manual.
    getconnected.honeywell.com | I work for Honeywell. Any posts I make are purely to help if I can. Any personal views expressed are my own

  10. #10
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    Thanks Rameses
    My Plumber and I had a good punt at getting it all wired. At the moment we have working rads and hot water, which is excellent. I do have a couple of questions regarding the system. Some of these might seem very basic, but I have ever only had Combi Boilers, so stored hot water is new to me :-)

    1. We have wired it as a Yplan. The 2 BDr91's have been binded, and is working. My question is to do with the DHW one. It the wiring Diagram, it has the grey cable from the 3 port valve going to 7. There is another wire coming from 7 and going into the DHW BDR91. It does not say where it should go in the reciever. Where do I wire it in?? It is Figure 10 in the installation guide.

    2. What is the best way to set the hot water for use in the morning and evening? How good are new hot water tanks at retaining heat??

    3. This question is just one to work out how the system works and what it does to actually put the heat on. If it is 11 at night (heat schedule is off for the whole house) and I turn the living room heating on via the controller. This then sends the signal to the TRV to change the temp. Is there then a seperate signal to the boiler to turn on the boiler?

    4. If I turn on the heating or hot water using one of the quick commands, should the boiler come on instantly, or like with the TRV's it might take up to 4 minutes?

    5. On the 2 BDR91's does the green light mean that it is on, or can they be on without the green light on?

    6. This one is for all the users who have had it for a while. Are there any suggestions or tips on different settings on the trv's and controller??

    7. From my boiler, there seems to be 2 wires coming out. Both have the same L,N,E. We have wired them up the same... Is this correct??

    8. Not so much to do with the Evohome, but we have also had a new Honeywell 3 port valve installed. It is set to Auto, but now and then it ticks. Anything I need to worry about??

    Thanks, and sorry for all the questions..


    Nick

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