Evening all,
First post so go easy on me! I’ve done plenty of reading, and Richard has helped over on EvoHome, but I wanted a bit more information about the bare bones of the system.
Long story short, we have purchased a 1920’s detached, and it needs a complete re-plumb. To make it a bit more efficient, we are going to install and EvoHome system at the same time. I’m going to be using my usual plumber for the job (I’ve built up a lot of trust in him), but he’s not a Honeywell Connected specialist, so we will be working the EvoHome set up between the two of us. I’m a Mechanical Engineer by trade, so reasonably handy – Hopefully we will be able to manage it! (Famous last words?)…
To simplify the installation, I am going to install it as a standard EvoHome system first, and then hopefully move to OpenTherm later. This should take out the complication of the OpenTherm set up, so we can concentrate on the zoning etc.
It will be installed on a system boiler with 14 radiators. Boiler will either be Ideal, ATAG or Valliant (so I can complete the OpenTherm upgrade later). Tank size somewhere around 210-250l. I'm leaning towards the Valliant so I can run a matched cylinder, unless anyone has any other thoughts?
Intial question is what system layout is best to go for, S, Y or W. From my understanding an S will require some modification to hold open one of the valves later with the switch to OpenTherm? Can Y and W be set to hot water priority? Is getting hot water priority best to do to get quick recharge times for the cylinder?
I know I am going to need the hot water kit, and I believe a BDR91 to control the valve. I take it that I need a separate BDR91 per valve? Also Honeywells installation guide shows a V4073 valve offset from the T of the system. I thought this was a 3 position valve – Is this just schematically shown in the wrong position? Why does the valve move position when the HR92s are added to the radiators?
Also, I understand that with HR92s there needs to be some kind of bypass for the boiler. Is it better to do this as an uncontrolled radiator, or an automatic bypass valve? If the EvoHome controller is going to be positioned in the hall, could I run the hall rad without a HR92 (i.e. as the bypass) and then rely on the controller to stop the boiler when the temp in the hall is OK?
Finally, has anyone got any experience of using these on cast iron rads? We are replacing all the radiators in the house at the same time, and am massively torn between cast and columns. The rooms are quite large (lounge is 5w x 5l x 3h) and I know cast rads are supposed to be better for larger rooms. I just wondered how the system copes with the different way they deliver the heat.
Thanks in advance, and sorry if the questions are a little thick!
First post so go easy on me! I’ve done plenty of reading, and Richard has helped over on EvoHome, but I wanted a bit more information about the bare bones of the system.
Long story short, we have purchased a 1920’s detached, and it needs a complete re-plumb. To make it a bit more efficient, we are going to install and EvoHome system at the same time. I’m going to be using my usual plumber for the job (I’ve built up a lot of trust in him), but he’s not a Honeywell Connected specialist, so we will be working the EvoHome set up between the two of us. I’m a Mechanical Engineer by trade, so reasonably handy – Hopefully we will be able to manage it! (Famous last words?)…
To simplify the installation, I am going to install it as a standard EvoHome system first, and then hopefully move to OpenTherm later. This should take out the complication of the OpenTherm set up, so we can concentrate on the zoning etc.
It will be installed on a system boiler with 14 radiators. Boiler will either be Ideal, ATAG or Valliant (so I can complete the OpenTherm upgrade later). Tank size somewhere around 210-250l. I'm leaning towards the Valliant so I can run a matched cylinder, unless anyone has any other thoughts?
Intial question is what system layout is best to go for, S, Y or W. From my understanding an S will require some modification to hold open one of the valves later with the switch to OpenTherm? Can Y and W be set to hot water priority? Is getting hot water priority best to do to get quick recharge times for the cylinder?
I know I am going to need the hot water kit, and I believe a BDR91 to control the valve. I take it that I need a separate BDR91 per valve? Also Honeywells installation guide shows a V4073 valve offset from the T of the system. I thought this was a 3 position valve – Is this just schematically shown in the wrong position? Why does the valve move position when the HR92s are added to the radiators?
Also, I understand that with HR92s there needs to be some kind of bypass for the boiler. Is it better to do this as an uncontrolled radiator, or an automatic bypass valve? If the EvoHome controller is going to be positioned in the hall, could I run the hall rad without a HR92 (i.e. as the bypass) and then rely on the controller to stop the boiler when the temp in the hall is OK?
Finally, has anyone got any experience of using these on cast iron rads? We are replacing all the radiators in the house at the same time, and am massively torn between cast and columns. The rooms are quite large (lounge is 5w x 5l x 3h) and I know cast rads are supposed to be better for larger rooms. I just wondered how the system copes with the different way they deliver the heat.
Thanks in advance, and sorry if the questions are a little thick!
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