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  1. #1
    Automated Home Jr Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2006

    Default X10 signals not reaching all of the house?

    Just invested in some Appliance and Lamp modules, as well as a TM13 and a CM12 PC Controller - my house has an interesting feature, in that it appears that signals to modules do not travel from one side to the other.

    If I put a load of modules around the house, only the ones on the same side of the house as the CM12 or TM13 (whatever I use to drive them) respond, the others do not.

    I've put the TM13 either side and can then reach the 'other' modules

    How can I determine what is causing this - all the sockets are on one 'side' of an RCD but they are 3 separate rings (downstairs, upstairs and an extension)

    I figure that with a 2nd TM13 on the 'other side' remote switches will work manually, but PC control (misterhouse or whatever when I Get round to it via the CM12U will be an empty one-sided experience due to this?

    -- Do I just live with it,and put 2 CM12's in? - and hack the control logic to drive the two of them on perhaps separate (or the same house codes)

    -- shall I (get an electrician of course to) fit a 13A socket 'right next' to the consumer unit and site the CM12 there in the hope that it might 'reach' every module?

    **unexpected X10 hassle!**

    Any advice appreciated!


  2. #2
    Automated Home Guru FrankMcAlinden's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Melbourne Australia


    Hi Marty

    I dont know much about x10 ....but i would consider purchasing one of these devices............(just ordered oner myself)

    Home of FirM - the Multi Zone IR Transport System

  3. #3
    Moderator toscal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Near Alicante Spain


    The XTB or XTB2 looks to be quite impresive.
    Some things to consider when using X10.
    1. Do you have a whole house X10 filter. This does help with certain communication issues.
    2. Do you have anything that could be causing a lot of noise. I'm assuming that the problem is not intermitent. This could be caused by flourescent lights, energy saver lights, low voltage lighting transformers, fridges/ freezers. Even PCs have been known to cause noise.
    3. Do any of the affected circuits have additional RCDs on them may be a plugin one like you get for lawn mowers etc.
    4. It is possible to rent an X10 signal strength meter from lets automate. The page is
    Its about 7.50 pounds per week plus VAT. Which is quite good.
    The meter consists of a transmitter and a reciever. The receiver will indicate signal strength. So you could place the transmitter where your CM12 is then place the receiver at the known bad spots and see if any signal is getting through.
    Good luck and lets us know how you get on.

  4. #4
    Automated Home Lurker
    Join Date
    Jan 2007

    Default Simular problems (please help)

    I received my X10 starterkit yesterday and tested the modules.
    I found out that all modules are working, as long as I connect both TM13 and module to the same double power outlet. At the moment that I use seperate "double poweroutlets" for TM13 and module, the X10 signal is not received by the module.
    I do have a 1 phase system, but it is divided in group 1-4 and 5-8 with both their own earthingswitch.

    Do I need a phaseconnector module or does somebody know another solution ?
    (I will check again this evening for all groups if the system works when I connect the TM13 and modules within 1 group)

  5. #5
    Moderator toscal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Near Alicante Spain


    If you have single phase electricity entering the house then a phase coupler is not needed. This is only required when you have 3 phase and need to send the X10 signals on all three phases.
    X10 signals will work through your diferentials but the signal can get attenuated.
    Have a look here,

    Just for some background info the TM13 sends out an X10 signal of about 1.5Volts. While many modules can transmit X10 signals at about 2.5 to 3Volts. You may need a whole house X10 filter to filter out incomming noise or a signal booster or a few local X10 plug in filters or quite possibly a combination of these. With out knowing your actual powerline noise levels its dificult to say. The link above should give you a few starting points.

  6. #6
    Automated Home Lurker
    Join Date
    Jan 2007

    Default Halo problems

    I went on last night witch checking and found the source of "noise".
    First I checked which outlets/switches belonged to an electrical group.
    Now I was able to find out that the system is working for all groups, except for group 2, being the livingroom and kitchen.
    Having read something about halo lighting and transformers I turned off all halo lighting and guess......the X10 system is working !

    Nevertheless someting strange is going on. To explain I give you some detail. I do have the following number of switches and halo-fixtures. All halo fixtures have their own trafo.
    switch 1: 5 halo at the rear of the house
    switch 2: 6 halo at ceiling of kitchen
    switch 3: 3 halo for kitchen countertop
    switch 4: 4 halo in wallcabinet
    Switch 1 I always need to turn off to make the X10 system work.
    Switch 4 I also need to turn off to make the X10 system work.
    Switch 2 and 3 can stay on without disrupting the X10 system.
    Any other combination does not work. (for example turn off switch 2 and leave on 3 and 4). Strange, since switch 2 has the biggest load with 6 fixtures.

    Can anybody explain and or give a solution which enables me to have a working X10 system incl above halo lighting ?
    And on top of that: In the future I want to build in X10 modules for the halo lighting.
    Can I / How should I make that work, considering above problems ?

    Thanks for all your help sofar !

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