HA-compatible front door?

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  • chicochan00
    Automated Home Lurker
    • Jan 2007
    • 4

    HA-compatible front door?

    Hello all

    I have recently bought a 1920's house, which I plan to flood wire and (likely) install a Comfort Alarm system. However, this will take time, and in the meantime I want to replace the current front door with something much more secure, but something that will be easy to work with once sensors etc need fitting. Therefore I am looking for a door that meets all/most of the following requirements:

    1) Security - I want it to be very secure - what should I look for in terms of frame, hinges, door material, locks, glass panels? What are the relevant BS (or other) standards?

    2) Recessed magnetic reed switches - I need a door that has cavities set aside for reed switch sensors to be put in later, or else one that can be modified (without weakening it) so that a reed switch can be installed

    3) Cabling - I don't want to use wireless. So there will be cabling from the reed switch back to Node0. But I don't want any cables to be visible anywhere in the house. Any thoughts on this regarding selection of door?

    4) I might be dreaming too far into the future, but has anyone heard of a door where the spyhole is replaced by e.g. an IP camera? This would seem to be an ideal way of allowing us to see who is outside the door from other locations

    5) Finally (probably getting much too picky now if wood is to be used, I would prefer it to be sourced from sustainably managed forests


    I have a flexible budget - I would prefer to pay more and get quality and exactly what I want. I would be grateful for any advice anyone can give. Thanks for your patience with my rather detailed requirements!

    Also, does anyone know of a list of quality HA installers who can assist with consulting, design, implementation (especially with Comfort experience)?

    Thanks very much in advance
    David
  • toscal
    Moderator
    • Oct 2005
    • 2061

    #2
    2. The switch part would go into the door frame and the magnet these days can be very thin indeed. Check out www.pilz.com

    3. I would possibly go for wood as this is the easiest to modify for fitting of sensors. Maybe ask the manufacture if they can pre install the sensors. Modifying UPVC doors or windows will invalidate any waranty you have.

    4. This is possible have a look here www.henrys.co.uk/cctv/doorviewcctvcamera.htm . Don't know of an IP version. But you could take the above camera and conect it to this https://www.digidave.co.uk/product_i...d712398dc91183

    Have a look on this site https://www.wordpress-1219309-438749...name=installer

    I think thats about it. Good luck.
    Last edited by toscal; 26 January 2007, 06:57 PM.
    IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.
    Renovation Spain Blog

    Comment

    • wywywywy
      Automated Home Sr Member
      • Dec 2005
      • 86

      #3
      Hi,

      I was under the impression that wood doors are not as secure as steel-framed PVC doors?

      But that door-view camera looks ace!! Seems to be quite cheap on eBay too. Wish there was a wireless version... as running a wire on the surface of the door probably won't look very good.

      Comment

      • chicochan00
        Automated Home Lurker
        • Jan 2007
        • 4

        #4
        Thanks Toscal and wy for your replies.

        I had also heard that steel-framed PVC doors were stronger than wood. The problem is that you aren't supposed to modify them afterwards (?)

        Toscal, regarding your suggestion of having the sensors pre-installed into a wood door: could you advise what sensors I should use to ensure future compatibility with, say, a Comfort alarm system? And what kind of holes, sizes etc. would be needed? (The problem I face is that I am trying to arrange the door before getting into the big HA/Comfort project).

        Cheers
        David

        Comment

        • toscal
          Moderator
          • Oct 2005
          • 2061

          #5
          If you go on the comfort website you will see the sensors they recommend.
          As regards security. I only mentioned wood as its easy to modify on site than PVC. But in either case this will invalidate any guarantee. And here in Spain wood security doors are quite common as they tend to blend in better to the old style houses. They do have a steel frame within the door etc. And tend to be thicker, and I guess heavier than the PVC equivalent.
          Have a look here, this is the sensor that comfort recomend for doors etc. They are quite cheap so I would buy one and take it with you to the door manufacturer / carpenter. http://www.home-control.co.uk/produc...0502f83a8dd2db
          IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.
          Renovation Spain Blog

          Comment

          • pjsmith
            Automated Home Jr Member
            • May 2006
            • 11

            #6
            On the topic of steel framed UPVC doors versus wood, I have some experience! At our office the UPVC doors have been broken into at the front twice, and at the rear once. Never once have they managed to get through the wooden doors.

            I was quite surprissed one day to find the front UPVC door open, but fully locked! The police said with a crowbar or 2 in the right location they just bend out of the frame and open! They tried this with the wood but it just left big gouge marks.

            In not sure of the quality of the UPVC doors, but I suspect they are at least average. The wooden doors inside however have never been broken despite repeated atempts.

            Rgds,

            Paul

            Comment

            • chicochan00
              Automated Home Lurker
              • Jan 2007
              • 4

              #7
              Thanks Toscal and Paul

              It sounds like wood with a steel frame would be a good option.

              Toscal, I'm going to follow your suggestion and buy one of the recommended magnetic door contacts to take along to the door manufacturer.

              I have some further questions:

              The part of the sensor that gets drilled into the frame needs to be connected back to Node 0 by a cable (I don't want to use wireless). Does Comfort work with CAT5E cabling? Should the cabling be buried in the frame when the door is made? If not how can I ensure that no cabling is visible when everything is finished? Any thoughts on this?

              Also, the door contact desciption warns against installing in damp locations. Would this be an issue for a normal external front door?

              Sorry if these questions are stupid. I am just starting out!

              Thanks
              David

              Comment

              • devil_121
                Automated Home Lurker
                • Mar 2007
                • 1

                #8
                I think Mr chicochan has some thing priceless thing in his house. That's why may be he is asking so much secured door. However It is overall good peace o f mind. The device does what is suppose to. If someone wanted to break in the front door of our apartment they would have to kick it down... and we would actually hear it. We were more afraid of someone "sneaking" in the place, rather than breaking in.
                shutters

                Comment

                • TimH
                  Automated Home Legend
                  • Feb 2004
                  • 509

                  #9
                  Originally posted by chicochan00 View Post
                  Does Comfort work with CAT5E cabling? Should the cabling be buried in the frame when the door is made? If not how can I ensure that no cabling is visible when everything is finished? Any thoughts on this?
                  David,

                  Comfort, and other alarm systems, will work over Cat5 cable, however make sure you use the "stranded" variety. Solid-cored cable will work for a while but is more prone to breaking, particularly under the screw-down contacts, and an unreliable connection will lead to false alarms.

                  Standard alarm cable (e.g. http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Ind...ble/index.html) is stranded and also thinner than Cat5 so should be easier to conceal.

                  As for hiding the cabling, I'd suggest burying trunking into the wall and plastering over. Plan the route carefully to make best use of whatever you'v got in your house to hide the wire e.g. under floorboards, in the ceiling void etc. to keep the in-wall cable to a minimum.

                  Your supplier may be able to rout a channel into the back of the frame so you can run your cabling in that. Best to talk it over with them and see what they can offer

                  HTH,

                  Tim.
                  My Flickr Photos

                  Comment

                  • chicochan00
                    Automated Home Lurker
                    • Jan 2007
                    • 4

                    #10
                    Thankyou Tim

                    That is very helpful

                    Best regards
                    David

                    Comment

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