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Thread: TMD4 / Ceiling fan

  1. #1
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    Default TMD4 / Ceiling fan

    Hi all,

    I'm kinda new to the whole X10 thing, and on a very tight budget, so don't want to blow a brand new module.

    I have a TMD4 (which has taken nine months to save for) that I'd like to use it to turn on:
    1: two 11 watt low energy bulbs
    2: standard 40 watt incandescent bulb
    3: standard 40 watt incandescent bulb
    4: 39 watt ceiling fan attached to light (on switch 2)

    I'm aware that I'll not be able to dim the low energy bulbs on switch 1, but wonder if they'd still light up from the module, and whether or not I'd be able to confuse the module into thinking the 39 watt fan is a bulb.

    Can anyone offer a newbie some advice?

    Thanks.
    Only a biker truly understands why a dog sticks its head out of a car window!

  2. #2
    Moderator toscal's Avatar
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    The TMD4 is an X10 transmitter. And by itself can not turn anything on or off. Plus you need to use momnetary switches. You will also need to invest in some appliance modules. Personally I would have gone for a TMA4, and 4 appliance modules. The TMA4 can also use normal switches.
    Will you be able to program the module. If not you will be stuck with the following defaults Address will be A1 to A4. No dim or bright functions (not that important for you). Doesn't respond to All Lights On or Off.
    So to get your project to work you will need 4 appliance modules, such as the AW12 micro module, set to A1, A2, A3 and A4 for example. Another option would be to use AM12W modules these are much bigger but have the added advantage of having code wheels on them so their addresses can be configured manually.
    Hope this helps

  3. #3
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    Thanks Toscal.

    I nearly had an electrician fit this to control the lounge! (blush)
    It looks as though I'm going to have to review my thoughts on this one.

    The idea was to remove all switches from the house, letting either the computer or a remote control everything. If I can get it done, I'd like the Bluetooth (inquiry) on my mobile to behave in the same way RFID does. Either my phone or PDA would control the general on/off/dim etc through HomeSeer.

    The thought of putting in switches now seems odd. It'll teach me to read the manual before splashing out.
    Only a biker truly understands why a dog sticks its head out of a car window!

  4. #4
    Moderator toscal's Avatar
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    Using bluetooth as an RFID alternative may only work if all you require is a way for the house to know if your in or out.
    You can still go the no switches route, if you want. Just use AW12 micro modules or similar and get homeseer or use a remote to turn them on.
    If you have any more questions just ask.

  5. #5
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    I have hundreds of questions, but want to try to search as many forums as I can before jumping in with silly questions.

    Ultimately, I'd like to dedicate a phone to HomeSeer so I can phone/text to turn events on/off etc. if I'm away from a PC, but in the mean time, I'd love to find a script to give HomeSeer a binary status check - in or out of the house.

    I'm looking for everything to be wired inline and hidden out of the way as the appliance/lamp modules are somewhat unsightly. The thing is, some of the lights in the house are the 11 watt energy saving lights, others are fluorescent tubes, and a few incandescent bulbs. How can I get a module to be hidden (not a socket rocket) to deal with the above other than din lines?

    Is a din line the best way to ensure the power to the garage is turned off at night?

    Exactly how sheltered does a Hawkeye PIR have to be?

    Can a SC9000 alarm system be used in conjunction with existing sensors?

    Can you get X10 to run your bath for you, and is it the right temperature?

    Anyway, I'll keep looking at various options (and look for a better paid job).
    Thanks for your help.
    Only a biker truly understands why a dog sticks its head out of a car window!

  6. #6
    Moderator toscal's Avatar
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    The micro modules are very small they are designed to fit behind light switches. Their size is 46 x 46 x 16 mm. As you have a mixture of bulbs I would go for appliance modules for the lights.
    The X10 PIR sensor - to be on the safe side they should not have any direct contact to rain, the odd spash is ok but I'm not too sure about prolonged contact.
    The SC9000 for security purposes needs to have the security sensors. The Hawkeyefor example wouldn't need a TM13 transceiver module if you have an SC9000 console. As the console will act as an X10 RF to X10 powerline converter.
    You could get X10 to run your bath. But getting it at the right temp could be tricky. There is a post on here somewhere about doing something similar.
    Depending on the amount of things consuming power in the garage a Din mounted appliance module in the fuse box could switch the power off to the garage, as long as the power rating to the garage is no greater than 16A or 3600W.
    Last edited by toscal; 29th June 2007 at 06:20 PM.

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