POuMA 80 Anyone can help!

[toscal]

Just on the off chance.
What type of radiator valves do you have. If you have the thermostatic type they may be stuck. To unstick them depends on the type you have. Also have you tried balancing the system it might be worth doing this.
These sites explains it really well.

http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/plumbing/rad-balance.html

https://www.diydata.com/projects/centralheating/balancing/radiator_balancing.php

[Sadkiller]

Thanks

Dear all,

THanks for all help from your guys. in these two days, there is no any luck on the CH. the flame turn off after every 30s and when I touched two CH pipes (hot and cold) the cold is geting hot faster than hot one. found two resisters R1 &R2 are loose, then resold. But the problem still remain same. the flame turn off after every 30s, NO any CH. is the pump not strong enough to bring the cold water back so the boiler is keeping over heat?

Is the pump being blocked and is there any place to be blocked? Is the diverted dead again?

By the way, when i touched the moto, it is really hot!

feel dead!

[Sadkiller]

water pressure

dear all,

today i checked the water pressure gaurage, it seems reduce presure from 2 to 1 in one day. ANy idea aboutit?

tahnks a lot

kindregards

[Sadkiller]

Pipe temp

Dear All,

in these days i tried to make the system working. However, it seems the pipe connecting to the divert is really hot. However, the CH hot pipe is not hot and it only warm a bit distance only. not further? Also moto is really hot.

Still no CH.

kind regards,

[sunbeam]

have a check around for any dripping hot taps,

it only takes a drip on a puma for the heating not to work.

[Sadkiller]

Thanks and new testing

Dear All,


Thanks for all of help from your guys! But it seems no luck for me. I attached some photos here. please have a look and help. It seems the hot water can not go to CH hot pipe. Anyone can help to analyze. I have already closed the bypass valve as well. is the divert damaged again?

The first pic. shows inside the heater and the moto is hot and the pipe connecting to the divert is hot as well. the second pic. shows the two CH pipe: one is hot and the other is cold. you can see after valve, the CH pipe becomes cold, which means the hotwater for CH can not go further in these two days. The third picture shows the pipe connecting to divert.

i also tested by not connceting water flow switch to see if it affects? however, it seems not any changing.

Any clue?

kind regards,

[Sadkiller]

pressure

Dear all,

i found the pressure meter showing the reading is dropped quickly from 2 to 1 seems only half day. any clue?

thanks a lot!

kind regards,

[rupertbear]

similar problem

SADKILLER
I recently had similar problem . (same boiler) boiler running for 30 seconds switching off then firing up again. I had previously had to solder R1 and R2 on PCB (6years ago ) with the intention of replacing the pcb the next time it gave problems. I also popped the caps (supposed to be sealed) off the Relays and cleaned the contacts with fine emery paper. (contacts charred)
Worked fine for 6 years so i must have got it right..
Boiler recently played up again so i investegated. R1 melted again . so resoldered. boiler still erratic, loads of clicking from the relays. So with the boiler running , cover off , main pcb cover hanging down , i just pulled all the cables about related to the main pcb (using insulated long nose plyers and insulated gloves). Something loose on the PCB if i moved the cables i could get the boiler to run perfectly (this was telling me that all the other sensors and safety devices must be working otherwise it wouldnt be running .
bought a new PCB fitted it in 10 minutes All problems gone.
Newer Pcb seems slightly better quality. .
You sound like your running around in circles . If you suspect your pipework and rads surely if you were to turn all the (rad)valves off just leaving the rad closest to the boiler on . and work on just getting the boiler running properly and heating that RAD.
Pump some air in the red tank (top of boiler) with a bike pump. Rotate the pump by hand (the instructions are on the pump).checking its not jammed. You can listen to it running by putting and screwdriver against(and your ear) it and listening to it run. I checked the tightness of every electrical connection and continuity of every cable. Just remember that PCB is the main brain of the whole system and it seems to be a weak point in our boilers.Im no boiler engineer but i can fix anything once you start poking about in there it aint exactly rocket science. GOOD LUCK. i wasted about 3 hours of my life but it was worth it. .im waaaaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrm..mmmmmm

[rupertbear]

SADKILLER
I had the pressure dropping too.......If its not a leak on your pipework. its probably the pressure vessel need pumping up.
turn the pressure relief valve (red knob)anticlockwise to release system pressure, then pump 1 bar of pressure into the red tank on the top of the boiler..
Make sure the pressure release valve is reset. Refill the system and pressurise to 1.5 bar. run system and bleed any air out of radiators...........