Motorized projector screen, projector lift and Home theater stuff

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  • jcmiguel
    Automated Home Jr Member
    • Apr 2008
    • 38

    Motorized projector screen, projector lift and Home theater stuff

    I am planning to install Idranet for my UFH temperature control and security but I also would like to automate my home theater stuff. The question is how to wisely use idratek for up or down control. I have both 230V AC for the motorized screen and 12v DC for the projector lift. The motorized screen has a sycronous motor and is wired by 4 (neutral, earth and 2 live for up and down). The projector lift is a linear actuator with 2 wires (up and down controlled by reversing current). I could use 2 relay for each but I thought to challenge the forum for a wiser and safer approach. Any suggestions of a digital relay that could reverse current for the 12v and apply to different live on 230v and the choice could be controlled by pulse from idratek? GOsh.... even I am confused with my thoughts.

    Carlos
  • Gumby
    Moderator
    • May 2004
    • 437

    #2
    Cortex has got some decent logic objects for motor control supporting various types of motor connections via eg DRH modules which I would have thought were ideal - I'm not sure why you don't want to use these?
    ----------------------
    www.gumbrell.com

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    • Gumby
      Moderator
      • May 2004
      • 437

      #3
      I'd go for a DRH module for each item and you'd also need to plan for appropriate fusing for the mains supply. The Cortex logic object for motor control "knows" how to work with 4 types of motor connection:
      i) On/Off + Direction Change - this sounds correct for your screen
      ii) Polarity reverse - this sounds correct for your projector lift
      iii) Open/Close - for motors with own logic
      iv) Pulse Open/Pulse Close - works perfectly with Autoglide

      The logic object can also integrate feedback from a limit switch to detect end of travel or failure to reach end of travel. It can time the motor run time (in each direction) to allow for approximations to % travel.

      There is already a Cortex icon for the projector screen, but not yet for a projector lift. If you have Cortex already have a read of the help file.
      ----------------------
      www.gumbrell.com

      Comment

      • spellinn
        Automated Home Sr Member
        • Dec 2007
        • 53

        #4
        IR control

        I found it easier to automate my projector screen using a MFP and the IR reciever that came with the screen.

        I tough the MFP the up, down and stop commands, and now that issues these to control the screen, having been prompted by my Harmony Remote. It saved quite alot of wiring back to Node0.

        Cheers


        Neil

        Comment

        • jcmiguel
          Automated Home Jr Member
          • Apr 2008
          • 38

          #5
          Solved

          Thanks a lot guys. I will go with idratek relays and the cortex logic as suggested. Just to note that unfortunately I have to hard wire the screen since it is an RF one and not infrared but thanks anyway

          Comment

          • Karam
            Automated Home Legend
            • Mar 2005
            • 863

            #6
            Originally posted by jcmiguel View Post
            Just to note that unfortunately I have to hard wire the screen since it is an RF one and not infrared but thanks anyway
            Purely out of interest - if a spare RF control is cheap and you're into hacking then a possibility is to wire the keypad of the RF transmitter to IDRATEK relay outputs or possibly even to digital outputs. Something like this has been done before for RF door locks.

            Comment

            • jcmiguel
              Automated Home Jr Member
              • Apr 2008
              • 38

              #7
              Hi all. Just an update. I have a projector lift and a TV lift working at 12V and controlled by a QRH001. I have another QRH controlling the projector screen and will use remaining connector for the projector themselves. The challenge now it to program macros to do the scene changes with lights, lifts and others at the right place (if TV is up screen must be down and vice versa). Macros will hopefully be controlled by IR and my remote control. Many thanks to all.

              Just to help others here. I had no help from the manufacturer of the screen but receiving advice from my father(electrician) I discovered that resistance among 2 pairs of the 4 wires coming from screen were the same , one wire was earth (easy to spot) and one pair gave me twice resistance as the 2 pairs. That was the clue. 2 wires with same resistance with common and 2X resistance between them. It also helped that there was a capacitor for the sincronised motor which would discharge before readings. Many thanks indeed.
              Last edited by jcmiguel; 4 November 2008, 02:03 PM. Reason: Adding comment

              Comment

              • jcmiguel
                Automated Home Jr Member
                • Apr 2008
                • 38

                #8
                Getting rid of remotes

                I am sure this will bring memories to some. There was a time when people had 2, 3,4,5 or more remotes to control their AV system. Worse, since enthusiasts tend to be unfaithful to brands(reference needed ), all remotes had dual function that didn't work with other's brand. Of course that didn't go well with wife request of a tidy place and easy way to get preferred TV program....
                The multifunction remote control were created and all was sorted. Until home automation came.... well what I am trying to introduce is the limitations of infrared modules when fed by the manufacturers remote control. My TV is hidden by a lift and the remote that turns off also turns on the TV. If all is automatic there is no problem but then someone comes and turn it off with remote and when you press the system to hide the TV is turned on and put to rest inside the cabinet..... (the spiders had a party other night watching BBC news).
                The solution: discrete power codes!!! www.Remotecentral.com is a website dedicated to philips pronto. I don't have one of those but luckly someone created a program that uses those codes and mimics the remote on my nokia phone (irremote from psiloc). It takes time but was worth the effort. Example: Samsung wisely provides a TV that only changes source on a orderly way so from digital tv to HDMI we have to press the button 6 times!!! discrete code changes directly to each source and therefore when I want to watch a BD movie I don't have delays . More related to home automation, I can turn tv on or off with the certainty that it will not be at the wrong state when resting. I still have to solve the projector but that is another week of search for the proper discrete code. By the way, it would be nice to have a direct entry of those codes on cortex....

                Comment

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