Additional ELV wiring

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  • Andrew Millne
    Automated Home Ninja
    • Nov 2007
    • 269

    Additional ELV wiring

    Can anybody point me in the right direction regarding where to start installing an additional ELV circuit for things like alarm sounders, radiator valve actuators etc? Currently I am using the Idranet ELV supply for additional PIRs only but I would imagine the 1A supply per spur will quickly become exhausted once I add a few of the new DFP panels, some alarm sounders and strobes, magnetic locks and RVAs.
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  • toscal
    Moderator
    • Oct 2005
    • 2061

    #2
    From memory I think ELV cables need to be at least 50mm away from LV (mains cables). But I think if they are in separate conduits they can be closer. Though I think the 50mm rule is good practice to do even if they are in separate conduits. Also depending on where you live local building codes may require different installation practices.

    Make the wiring as neat as possible, and label it clearly. Permanent markers tend not to be that permanent 2 years later when you need to find a certain cable. Some things can de daisy chained to the supply, so bear that in mind. Also bear in mind a failure in one part of the daisy chain may cause problems further down the line.
    Junction boxes at strategic locations make connecting equipment easier.
    Try doing a google for ELV wiring guides and practices.

    Something you may be interested in. We supply a 9 output power supply. This has a mains input and 9 stabilised 12V 1amp fused outputs. Also you can have battery back up as an option. You just connect a gel type battery to the battery terminals normally a 7Ah battery is sufficient as this is still small enough to fit in the case and still give you a reasonable back up time.
    IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.
    Renovation Spain Blog

    Comment

    • jpdw
      Automated Home Guru
      • Oct 2007
      • 169

      #3
      Originally posted by toscal View Post
      Make the wiring as neat as possible, and label it clearly. Permanent markers tend not to be that permanent 2 years later when you need to find a certain cable.
      On this note, I remember reading somewhere (probably AH) the suggestion to use bands of insulating tape resistor-style to identify cables. I've done this and it's worked very very well. I'd highly recommend it. Not only does it minimise the additional cable diamater but it's dead cheap too.
      Jon

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      • toscal
        Moderator
        • Oct 2005
        • 2061

        #4
        Coloured heat shrink tubing is another option. Or if you have a Dymo label maker then for some models they do Heat shrink tubing label tape.

        And if you can't remember the resistor colour code you may want to try this http://www.softpedia.com/get/Others/...e-Solver.shtml
        IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.
        Renovation Spain Blog

        Comment

        • jpdw
          Automated Home Guru
          • Oct 2007
          • 169

          #5
          Originally posted by toscal View Post
          if you can't remember the resistor colour code you may want to try this http://www.softpedia.com/get/Others/...e-Solver.shtml
          Or make up your own colour code - also useful if you only have a few colours
          Jon

          Comment

          • Gumby
            Moderator
            • May 2004
            • 437

            #6
            You can get the Dymo Rhino labellers fairly cheap now. They can use a flexible label that wraps well and stays stuck.

            A lot of cheap insulating tape has a glue that turns to a nasty gunky mess after about 6 months.
            ----------------------
            www.gumbrell.com

            Comment

            • toscal
              Moderator
              • Oct 2005
              • 2061

              #7
              Originally posted by Gumby View Post
              You can get the Dymo Rhino labellers fairly cheap now. They can use a flexible label that wraps well and stays stuck.

              A lot of cheap insulating tape has a glue that turns to a nasty gunky mess after about 6 months.
              I use a Rhino labeller and the heat shrink tube cartridge.
              Your not wrong about the gunky stuff. Which is why I prefer heat shrink tube.
              IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.
              Renovation Spain Blog

              Comment

              • Karam
                Automated Home Legend
                • Mar 2005
                • 863

                #8
                Originally posted by Andrew Millne View Post
                Can anybody point me in the right direction regarding where to start installing an additional ELV circuit for things like alarm sounders, radiator valve actuators etc? Currently I am using the Idranet ELV supply for additional PIRs only but I would imagine the 1A supply per spur will quickly become exhausted once I add a few of the new DFP panels, some alarm sounders and strobes, magnetic locks and RVAs.
                If you are asking about extending current capacity of IDRANet supply then you can imagine effectively adding another network where the data and audio buses and 0V are commoned (at supply point) with first network but the 12-15V from the second supply only feeds the power bus on the second network. It would be best if both supplies are located close to each other and relatively central to both networks and any shileding used commoned at that central point.

                Comment

                • Gumby
                  Moderator
                  • May 2004
                  • 437

                  #9
                  Aren't the RVAs 24V, in which case you'll need another power supply?
                  ----------------------
                  www.gumbrell.com

                  Comment

                  • Andrew Millne
                    Automated Home Ninja
                    • Nov 2007
                    • 269

                    #10
                    Originally posted by Gumby View Post
                    Aren't the RVAs 24V, in which case you'll need another power supply?
                    I believe they are but I think there is also a 12V version, I don't really want to be running both . I was mainly listing potential applications for the 12V supply and voicing concerns over the fact that the DFP's would eat into the available supply.

                    I remember reading from your blog Gumby about you using Idratek for heating, did you eventually get this set up using RVA's? How's your install going currently? The majority of my interest for the Idratek system derived from your documented install so keenly awaiting some recent news
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                    • Gumby
                      Moderator
                      • May 2004
                      • 437

                      #11
                      I can't recall seeing a 12V valve actuator, the alternatives I saw were 240V - don't want anyone to get caught out. But if 12V is available then that helps.

                      I'm using the RVAs at 24V run off a separate power supply. Each valve has it's own run of twin core and the power to each valve is switched centrally using QRHs. I ran separate cables because at the time I wasn't decided on 24V vs 240V, since my original quote from Oventrop had a significant price difference. This is before Idratek started selling them. I also ran an Idratek cable to each valve point as well for future-proofing.

                      The CH control is running very well. I have inhibits on certain windows and also on certain doors for behaviour modification ... "why is this room cold?" "because you've left the door open"

                      Recent weather has tested out the additional offsets that Cortex can apply depending on outside temperature, which is pretty nice.

                      I'm nearing the end of my blogging ban (long story) so expect some articles soon. You can sign up to an RSS feed to avoid having to keep gong to the website.
                      ----------------------
                      www.gumbrell.com

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