Can anybody point me in the right direction regarding where to start installing an additional ELV circuit for things like alarm sounders, radiator valve actuators etc? Currently I am using the Idranet ELV supply for additional PIRs only but I would imagine the 1A supply per spur will quickly become exhausted once I add a few of the new DFP panels, some alarm sounders and strobes, magnetic locks and RVAs.
Additional ELV wiring
Collapse
X
-
From memory I think ELV cables need to be at least 50mm away from LV (mains cables). But I think if they are in separate conduits they can be closer. Though I think the 50mm rule is good practice to do even if they are in separate conduits. Also depending on where you live local building codes may require different installation practices.
Make the wiring as neat as possible, and label it clearly. Permanent markers tend not to be that permanent 2 years later when you need to find a certain cable. Some things can de daisy chained to the supply, so bear that in mind. Also bear in mind a failure in one part of the daisy chain may cause problems further down the line.
Junction boxes at strategic locations make connecting equipment easier.
Try doing a google for ELV wiring guides and practices.
Something you may be interested in. We supply a 9 output power supply. This has a mains input and 9 stabilised 12V 1amp fused outputs. Also you can have battery back up as an option. You just connect a gel type battery to the battery terminals normally a 7Ah battery is sufficient as this is still small enough to fit in the case and still give you a reasonable back up time.IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.
Renovation Spain Blog
-
-
Originally posted by toscal View PostMake the wiring as neat as possible, and label it clearly. Permanent markers tend not to be that permanent 2 years later when you need to find a certain cable.Jon
Comment
-
-
Coloured heat shrink tubing is another option. Or if you have a Dymo label maker then for some models they do Heat shrink tubing label tape.
And if you can't remember the resistor colour code you may want to try this http://www.softpedia.com/get/Others/...e-Solver.shtmlIF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.
Renovation Spain Blog
Comment
-
-
Originally posted by toscal View Postif you can't remember the resistor colour code you may want to try this http://www.softpedia.com/get/Others/...e-Solver.shtmlJon
Comment
-
-
You can get the Dymo Rhino labellers fairly cheap now. They can use a flexible label that wraps well and stays stuck.
A lot of cheap insulating tape has a glue that turns to a nasty gunky mess after about 6 months.----------------------
www.gumbrell.com
Comment
-
-
Originally posted by Gumby View PostYou can get the Dymo Rhino labellers fairly cheap now. They can use a flexible label that wraps well and stays stuck.
A lot of cheap insulating tape has a glue that turns to a nasty gunky mess after about 6 months.
Your not wrong about the gunky stuff. Which is why I prefer heat shrink tube.IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.
Renovation Spain Blog
Comment
-
-
Originally posted by Andrew Millne View PostCan anybody point me in the right direction regarding where to start installing an additional ELV circuit for things like alarm sounders, radiator valve actuators etc? Currently I am using the Idranet ELV supply for additional PIRs only but I would imagine the 1A supply per spur will quickly become exhausted once I add a few of the new DFP panels, some alarm sounders and strobes, magnetic locks and RVAs.
Comment
-
-
Aren't the RVAs 24V, in which case you'll need another power supply?----------------------
www.gumbrell.com
Comment
-
-
Originally posted by Gumby View PostAren't the RVAs 24V, in which case you'll need another power supply?
I remember reading from your blog Gumby about you using Idratek for heating, did you eventually get this set up using RVA's? How's your install going currently? The majority of my interest for the Idratek system derived from your documented install so keenly awaiting some recent news
Comment
-
-
I can't recall seeing a 12V valve actuator, the alternatives I saw were 240V - don't want anyone to get caught out. But if 12V is available then that helps.
I'm using the RVAs at 24V run off a separate power supply. Each valve has it's own run of twin core and the power to each valve is switched centrally using QRHs. I ran separate cables because at the time I wasn't decided on 24V vs 240V, since my original quote from Oventrop had a significant price difference. This is before Idratek started selling them. I also ran an Idratek cable to each valve point as well for future-proofing.
The CH control is running very well. I have inhibits on certain windows and also on certain doors for behaviour modification ... "why is this room cold?" "because you've left the door open"
Recent weather has tested out the additional offsets that Cortex can apply depending on outside temperature, which is pretty nice.
I'm nearing the end of my blogging ban (long story) so expect some articles soon. You can sign up to an RSS feed to avoid having to keep gong to the website.----------------------
www.gumbrell.com
Comment
-
Comment