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Thread: HouseHeat system

  1. #171
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    Quote Originally Posted by martynwendon View Post
    I collated all my notes into a rough how-to, so anybody wishing to get FHEM and xAP FHEM running on a Linksys NSLU2 with an FHZ1300 USB pc controller can download them from http://www.aceshigh.net/xap/nslu2.txt

    Any questions and I'll do my best to help!
    Thanks for this - I am now about to dig out my NSLU2 and try this out - I'll let you know how I get on

    Presumably FHEM on the NSLU2 is accessed via a web browser?
    Last edited by autolog; 23rd March 2010 at 01:38 PM.

  2. #172
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    Quote Originally Posted by autolog View Post
    Presumably FHEM on the NSLU2 is accessed via a web browser?
    I have done a bit more reading on this now an think I understand a bit more about XAP
    I suppose what I am ideally looking for is some way that I can have an App on my iPhone linking to the NSLU2 so that it can monitor / set the required room temperatures without the involvement of a PC - is this possible?

  3. #173
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    Quote Originally Posted by martynwendon View Post
    Any questions and I'll do my best to help!
    1st Question - probably of many - I have installed Slug_OS and have been following your notes. All seems to have gone well until I get to the following statement:
    Code:
    perl -i -p -e 's/XSUBPP \= \$\(XSUBPPDIR\)\$\(DFSEP\)xsubpp/XSUBPP \= \/usr\/share\/perl\/5\.8\/ExtUtils\/xsubpp/' Makefile
    I get the error = Can't open Makefile: No such file or directory.

    I suspect I have done something wrong and would welcome any pointers as to what to look for

  4. #174
    Moderator Kevin's Avatar
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    I'm glad you've taken the plunge trying this out. I'm not at all familiar with Linux so knowing someone has walked through the instructions and got there will make me feel much more confident when I try it. Do keep us posted on your progress and any deviations you had to take.

    I just need another NSLU2 as my first one is running xAP OPNMax.

    K

  5. #175
    Automated Home Sr Member martynwendon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by autolog View Post
    1st Question - probably of many - I have installed Slug_OS and have been following your notes. All seems to have gone well until I get to the following statement:
    Code:
    perl -i -p -e 's/XSUBPP \= \$\(XSUBPPDIR\)\$\(DFSEP\)xsubpp/XSUBPP \= \/usr\/share\/perl\/5\.8\/ExtUtils\/xsubpp/' Makefile
    I get the error = Can't open Makefile: No such file or directory.

    I suspect I have done something wrong and would welcome any pointers as to what to look for
    I updated the notes, please re-download them.

    (The above command needed to be AFTER extracting the Device-SerialPort archive).

    Hope the rest of the notes were all ok?


    Martyn

  6. #176
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    Sorry for hijacking this thread but I'm about to order from Conrad and don't want to make a mistake

    I'm planning to buy

    3 x Radio heating thermostat FHT 80B-II (750407 - 89 52.95)
    1 x FHZ 1300 PC WLAN + MODULE + POWER PACK (646429 - 89)
    1 x Heat relays FHT 8 W

    My current setup is Combi boiler with 7 rads (6 with TRVs and a bathroom towel rail working as the bypass I suppose) controlled by a programmable timer in the hall.

    My questions are as follows!

    Why don't I want the RADIO-HEATING THERMOSTAT FHT 8 Set (570055 - 89 44.51) or the RADIO HEATING THERMOSTAT FHT 8-II Set (560606 - 89 39.99) from conrad as they are a fair bit cheaper?

    Should I get the kit with the window sensor thing too?

    Do I need the WLAN part for the FHZ thingy? Does it have an ethernet port otherwise and I can just stick in my node 0 (the towel cupboard!) and presumably it needs a power pack?

    I obviously still want to control the heating of the other rooms with the existing programmer. Is this where the FHT8W comes in. Simply put it gets a parallel connection from the boiler and it can demand heat when the hall programmer isn't and vice versa.

    Why other than expense don't I want the HomeMatic system? It looks exactly the same (mix and match protocol) just looks more consumer-friendly and dearer?

    Eventually I want to control lighting etc but the fact I can take all this kit with me if I move sounds good. I'm on a mac too so what good (cheap/free!) software would be best. I saw reference to xAP and that lead me to xPL but my eyes glazed over a bit

    I have a strong programming background but easier is always better where I'm concerned. And my life has taken a path as far away from all that as I could get.

    Sorry again for going on for so long.

    mark

  7. #177
    Automated Home Sr Member martynwendon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pollocmc View Post
    1 x FHZ 1300 PC WLAN + MODULE + POWER PACK (646429 - 89)
    620371 - 89 is a bit cheaper if you can live with a USB interface. You may be limiting your options software wise if you go for the WLAN version.

    Quote Originally Posted by pollocmc View Post
    Why don't I want the RADIO-HEATING THERMOSTAT FHT 8 Set (570055 - 89 44.51) or the RADIO HEATING THERMOSTAT FHT 8-II Set (560606 - 89 39.99) from conrad as they are a fair bit cheaper?
    These are receivers only on the thermostat so you'll not get any control of them.

    Quote Originally Posted by pollocmc View Post
    Should I get the kit with the window sensor thing too?
    Depends what you're overall goal is - I didn't need the window sensor since I already have windows / doors monitoring via other means.

    Quote Originally Posted by pollocmc View Post
    Do I need the WLAN part for the FHZ thingy? Does it have an ethernet port otherwise and I can just stick in my node 0 (the towel cupboard!) and presumably it needs a power pack?
    I use the USB interface version since it was known to work with FHEM. Using my xAP <-> FHEM gateway gives integration into other HA systems (e.g. xAP Floorplan, Homeseer, Housebot, etc)

    Quote Originally Posted by pollocmc View Post
    I obviously still want to control the heating of the other rooms with the existing programmer. Is this where the FHT8W comes in. Simply put it gets a parallel connection from the boiler and it can demand heat when the hall programmer isn't and vice versa.
    Again, it depends on what you're looking for. Each FHT thermostat has 2 on / off time zones with target and setback temperatures. They then talk to the FHT8W and tell it when there's a heating demand. Thus, in my opinion, an additional programmer is redundant since the FHT thermostats control the heating directly.

    Quote Originally Posted by pollocmc View Post
    Why other than expense don't I want the HomeMatic system? It looks exactly the same (mix and match protocol) just looks more consumer-friendly and dearer?
    For me, it was purely down to expense and the ability to integrate with other HA systems.

    Quote Originally Posted by pollocmc View Post
    Eventually I want to control lighting etc but the fact I can take all this kit with me if I move sounds good. I'm on a mac too so what good (cheap/free!) software would be best. I saw reference to xAP and that lead me to xPL but my eyes glazed over a bit
    The software supplied with the PC interface is Windows only I believe, but FHEM is written in Perl so can run cross-platform with ease.

    Quote Originally Posted by pollocmc View Post
    I have a strong programming background but easier is always better where I'm concerned. And my life has taken a path as far away from all that as I could get.

    Sorry again for going on for so long.

    mark
    No problem, hope this helps!

    Martyn

  8. #178
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    Many thanks for taking the time to respond Martyn.

    So if I go for the USB version I need something to mount it on my LAN is this where the Slug comes in and it can run any other functionality? (I can use the money saved to purloin one from ebay)

    I understand about the FHT8W. What I was thinking was that at the moment I don't want to buy another 4 FHT80B for the 4 remaining radiators + automatic bypass(cost and to make sure I can get it all working first). The plan being the FS20 ones will go in bedrooms and my kids rooms only get used at weekends so the set point will be low in between times therefore possibly no demand yet I could be freezing my nuts off in the living room and have to get up and manually trigger a bedroom stat to get it to come on.

    I know I should go the whole hog and be done with it but that's how it's set in my head!

    mark

  9. #179
    Automated Home Sr Member martynwendon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pollocmc View Post
    Many thanks for taking the time to respond Martyn.
    No problem at all!

    Quote Originally Posted by pollocmc View Post
    So if I go for the USB version I need something to mount it on my LAN is this where the Slug comes in and it can run any other functionality? (I can use the money saved to purloin one from ebay)
    Yes, the USB version would need either a host PC / MAC or a Slug. Although, even the WLAN version would still need something to run the software on for it.

    Quote Originally Posted by pollocmc View Post
    I understand about the FHT8W. What I was thinking was that at the moment I don't want to buy another 4 FHT80B for the 4 remaining radiators + automatic bypass(cost and to make sure I can get it all working first). The plan being the FS20 ones will go in bedrooms and my kids rooms only get used at weekends so the set point will be low in between times therefore possibly no demand yet I could be freezing my nuts off in the living room and have to get up and manually trigger a bedroom stat to get it to come on.
    I approached this from the other direction and implemented all the room based stuff first before I hooked up the boiler control.

    This way, the old boiler programmer was still in overall control, but as I added FHT80Bs to each room, those rooms became more "efficient", but not at the expense of effecting heating in the remaining rooms.

    Once I was happy with the control / set up of the individual rooms and the integration with the PC interface / FHEM / HA system I then fitted the FHT8W.

    Even at this point though, I didn't actually connect it to the boiler inputs, I connected it to an input on one of my HA controllers so that I could log some data on the "demand" of the house. At that point I was already logging temperature data for each room over time, so it was useful to compare that information with when the FHT8W decided that it needed to switch the boiler on / off.

    After a few weeks or so of tweaking I hooked the FHT8W to the boiler and haven't looked back :-)

    Quote Originally Posted by pollocmc View Post
    I know I should go the whole hog and be done with it but that's how it's set in my head!

    mark
    My advise would be not to rush it, it IS a fair amount of investment after all.....although I'm glad I found the Conrad site after having only brought a couple of FHT sets from within the UK.


    Martyn

  10. #180
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    This has been an extremely useful thread - many thanks to everyone who's contributed so much useful info. Sorry for hijacking but I've got a question which I'm yet to find an answer to...

    I have a house with a combi boiler and TRVs on all the radiators and I'm planning to use an FS20 system to control our radiators and our boiler. This would be a straight-forward installation.. but... To make matters more complicated, we are installing wet underfloor heating in our living room. Because we're using engineering timber floor boards, we have to ensure that the floor temperature does not exceed 28 degrees C (or else the 6mm solid wood top layer will de-laminate from the ply layer!). The underfloor heating manifold has a thermostatic mixing valve to keep the flow temperature at a constant setting of 36 degrees C but we need a separate control to ensure that the temperature at the top of the floor does not exceed 28 degrees C. Does anyone know if there's any way to add a floor temperature probe to the FS20 system such that the floor temperature will be kept below 28 degrees C? I've seen an FS20 Universal Thermostat - I wonder if that could be configured to work with the system somehow? Or perhaps, instead of using the FS20 wireless valve actuator, I could use an FS20 switch wired in series with a wired floor thermostat to control a wired actuator and the UFH circulation pump?

    (I also need to control the underfloor heating's circulation pump somehow.)

    I guess the desired behaviour of the system would be:

    * IF room thermostat is below target temperature AND IF floor probe is below 28 degrees C then:
    o open valve AND
    o call for heat from the boiler AND
    o run UFH circulation pump

    Any help would be most welcome! This is all a bit confusing for my poor brain!

    Many thanks,
    Jack

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