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Thread: Bathroom light switch

  1. #1
    Automated Home Jr Member jcmiguel's Avatar
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    Default Bathroom light switch

    I was wondering about the UK regulations and a 0V light switch inside a bathroom Zone 3. The switch would control a QRI (2 relays for mirror light and ceiling light). Is there any problem with that approach?
    Last edited by jcmiguel; 19th March 2009 at 06:24 PM.

  2. #2
    Automated Home Jr Member
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    I assume the 0V switch is on one of the digital inputs? If the QRI is mounted outside I can't see any problem.

    Regards,
    Peter.

  3. #3
    Automated Home Jr Member jcmiguel's Avatar
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    Default Bathroom light switch

    Yes, it is the digital input. Actually 2 inputs, one for each lamp. The QRI is far away from the bathroom (loft). Thanks a lot for the help.

  4. #4
    Automated Home Ninja Andrew Millne's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pdwarriner View Post
    If the QRI is mounted outside I can't see any problem.
    Unless it rains

  5. #5
    Automated Home Legend chris_j_hunter's Avatar
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    Default

    curious how best to wire the two digital switches in this situation ... use a button module & so Cat-5e, or some push-button switches from (eg) Maplin wired back to the module in the loft using Cat-5e or bell-wire or ... ?

  6. #6
    Automated Home Guru JonS's Avatar
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    You could of course use a QBI, or DFP or similar. In my design I'll be using something like a DFP or IR Receiver + QBI so I also have control over audio in the bathroom (relayed to player / amp in bedroom) plus 2 light channels one swiched and one dimmed via QLD.
    If havinng dimmed lights is a posibility remember when you terminate at the QRI to leave enough slack in the cable to allow you to re terminate on an adjacent device in the future.
    2p
    JonS

  7. #7
    Automated Home Jr Member jcmiguel's Avatar
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    Default Switches

    After some trials the public consensus (read my wife!) had voted for the most practical system available....
    A boring 2 gang white grid plate with 2 one way switch connected to the QRI as 2 digital inputs and the logic following digital state. I had to remove the retractive swiches as they didn't look "normal" or "easy to use".
    PS: I used 2 pair phone cables for that as they are cheap

  8. #8
    Automated Home Jr Member jcmiguel's Avatar
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    Default Not so boring if I find the right stuff

    I was looking arround and came up with a challenge. There are some proximity sensing devices that you can put behind the tiles and thus switch light. However, they use the 230V and I want to use Idratek! So it is DIY time... I am looking for ideas from the electronic parties on this forum. Capacitance? Can I use power from the QRI? Suggestions are appreciated. The goal is a proximity sensor that can be placed behind a 5 mm tile and can provide info for Cortex/Reflex.

  9. #9
    Moderator toscal's Avatar
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    You mean something like this http://www.letsautomate.com/10690.cfm?
    Instead of operating a light you could always use it to switch a relay.
    Relay from here would do the trick.
    http://x10-hk.com/store/product_info...c2ef12a2abbbdb

    Or I guess if you have a Maplin store nearby then they may have something suitable.
    IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.
    www.casatech.eu Renovation Spain Blog

  10. #10
    Automated Home Jr Member jcmiguel's Avatar
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    Default Relay

    Yes, that is what I saw as well as this but they all need to connect into a power supply. I am also looking at a DIY with a QT100 connected to an idratek module. The IC needs 5v and the question that remains to be answered is if sensitivity will be enough to get through the tile. I will post here but still open to suggestions

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