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Thread: X10 light bulbs - which ones will work

  1. #11
    Automated Home Guru Wexfordman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by toscal View Post
    We can supply a Fluorescent Lamp mini module. Max load is 300w. This will only do on and off and respond to things like all lights OFF and ON, so no dimming.
    I have mains halogen bulbs working very well with X10. From GU10 type ( though these will be replaced with LED ones shortly so will lose the dimming.) to the G9 halopin type. Both can be dimmed and with the soft start function seem to last a lot longer than normal. but when one blows I know the rest will follow within about 2 weeks.
    You will be able to get normal 40W bulbs until September 2010 according to the EU directive. Which should have been ratified by now. Will need to check. It was going through the final readings etc in March, but you know how long politicians can take to decide anything unless its their expense account.

    I'm confused, I've put in a few lw12's for my sister, and she went and put in halogens (gu10's) after I asked her nicely not to. They worked initially, but had a few lw12's blow since. So question is LW12's with gu10's yes or no ?
    Also, what option if lw12 will not work (no neutral wire in switch plate, so cant use appliance modules etc).
    And what is the long term solution when cfls/leds are the only option ?

    Really appreciate some clarity on this, she has about 4 circuits not working fdor her now, and I am loathe to replace with more lw12's, th inking of going back to good old mannual switches for her.

    Thanks,
    Eamon

  2. #12
    Moderator toscal's Avatar
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    LW12 have a minimum load requirement of 60W and a max of 250W. GU10 bulbs are fine if they are halogen ones. But since they either come in 35 or 50W you will need to be controlling at least 2 bulbs per LW12 to get to the minimum load requirements. I had to do this in my office.
    IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.
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  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by toscal View Post
    LW12 have a minimum load requirement of 60W and a max of 250W. GU10 bulbs are fine if they are halogen ones. But since they either come in 35 or 50W you will need to be controlling at least 2 bulbs per LW12 to get to the minimum load requirements. I had to do this in my office.
    I thought I had read about min loads & this is it... I use LW12s mostly, so I guess they will be landfill once the low power lights arrive!

  4. #14
    Automated Home Guru Wexfordman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by toscal View Post
    LW12 have a minimum load requirement of 60W and a max of 250W. GU10 bulbs are fine if they are halogen ones. But since they either come in 35 or 50W you will need to be controlling at least 2 bulbs per LW12 to get to the minimum load requirements. I had to do this in my office.
    Thanks Toscal,

    They are the halogen versions, 1 has 10 halogens (25w each) so within spec, and the others were 4 x halogens at 50w. I do know there was a faulty batch of lw12's and I had some replaced already, so maybe same thing has happened.

    What would you propose is the solution long term when halogens are gone ?

    Regards,
    Eamon

  5. #15
    Moderator toscal's Avatar
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    That's not an easy question. But one thing would be to have individual control of each light, not ideal but would give some sort of control.
    Many LED dimming modules require a 0 to 10V dc signal. So if you could have a controller give you 0V for an X10 Off and 10V for an X10 On and the bright and dim commands give you something in between. But like many things its never that simple. But using something like a Homevision (www.csi3.com) controller and some external circuitry would do it, such as this http://www.audon.co.uk/stack_daq.html#dac the SD-DAC - Analogue Output may do it and at 69 pounds not a bad price, as it controls 4 outputs so 4 dimmers.
    I guess you could have the homevision output an ASCII string when it recieves a specific X10 command. eg A1 ON would send out " V ch1 1000" and A1 Off "V ch1 0000" and say each bright command would increase the voltage by 0.625V For this to work you would need to store the current voltage in as a variable and act on this. Oh dear I can see yet another project forming.
    Last edited by toscal; 24th August 2009 at 04:30 PM.
    IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.
    www.casatech.eu Renovation Spain Blog

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