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Thread: X10 all house filter

  1. #1
    Automated Home Sr Member jaffab's Avatar
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    Default X10 all house filter

    All,

    I am thinking about purchasing a TF678 all house filter (http://www.uk-automation.co.uk/whole...er-p-1003.html) becuase several people on the discussion have in the past, said that it sports out a lot of X10 singal problems. I think external noise may be the cause of some signals from my Sc9000 not being received.

    Can anybody tell me, does this really make much of a difference, and are they hard to fit. I assume its a case of:

    1) Turning off the power at the master (external) feed
    2) Removing the supply feed from the main internal fuse box and connecting the feed to this box instead
    3) Running a feed from the TF678 to the master fuse box

    The UK home automation talks more about using the filter to stop x10 signals going out - but I am more interested (for obvious reasons) in using it to cut down missed signals inside the property.

    Please advise
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  2. #2
    Automated Home Sr Member jaffab's Avatar
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    Whilst I wait for a reply, would it be a better idea to test for noisy devices using the offer of the loan XPTT device from lets automate...

    http://www.letsautomate.com/10948.cfm?

    As the messages from the SC9000 sometimes get through (and do most of the time) and sometimes dont get through, is the best course of action to look for noisy devices in the house, or to look for noise coming from outside (hense the question on the whole house filter).

    Any suggestions?
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  3. #3
    Moderator toscal's Avatar
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    I would always fit an X10 whole house filter. As this can solve many of the problems.
    And also look for noisy devices inside.
    IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.
    www.casatech.eu Renovation Spain Blog

  4. #4
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    The rental test kit sounds like a good plan. I've just started my x10 project and found that my Samsung LCD tv blocks the x10 signals so intend tobuy a filter from Lets Automate. Curiously enough I have a smaller version of the same tv upstairs and it doesn't seem to have the same effect (touch wood).

  5. #5
    Automated Home Sr Member jaffab's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by toscal View Post
    I would always fit an X10 whole house filter. As this can solve many of the problems.
    And also look for noisy devices inside.
    Ok, so decided to take the plunge with the all house filter this weekend and got... nowhere. The cables from the external box to my fuse box are too tight, and run between the walls, so I cant stretch/change them to fit the filter.

    So I guess (please advise) that I need a pro to come in from the electricity company and run new cables?!? If so, who do I call - is it my electricity supplier (EDF)? If not, who? And how much is it going to cost (roughly)?
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  6. #6
    Moderator toscal's Avatar
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    Here in Spain we fit the filter after the main Switch and before the differential. So if this is the case with you. Then a good electrician would do, you could try EDF as they may be able to recommend someone locally. As to cost I haven't a clue for the UK.
    IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.
    www.casatech.eu Renovation Spain Blog

  7. #7
    Automated Home Sr Member jaffab's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by toscal View Post
    Here in Spain we fit the filter after the main Switch and before the differential. So if this is the case with you. Then a good electrician would do, you could try EDF as they may be able to recommend someone locally. As to cost I haven't a clue for the UK.

    Thanks. I would have had a go myself, except that in the main external electric box, the main units (on/off switch, and earth) are sealed units - so no way to disconnect the mains leads. Hence why I thought EDF would need to get involved.
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  8. #8
    Automated Home Sr Member jaffab's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jaffab View Post
    Thanks. I would have had a go myself, except that in the main external electric box, the main units (on/off switch, and earth) are sealed units - so no way to disconnect the mains leads. Hence why I thought EDF would need to get involved.

    Well, the electric man has been in, and the filter is fitted, and - I am still having problems. I switched off all applicences (fridges, freezers, lights, TVs, radios), everything except the computer and the x10 receiver, and did some tests - and still having problems. My tests and conclusions are....

    1) Computer sending x10 to devices - never a problem
    2) Sc9000 turning all lights on and all lights off (via the keychain control) - activates the lights and the computer picks up the x10 signal - no problem
    3) remote sensors (PIR's) are flashing to say sending signals - so they appear to be working
    4) However, no x10 signal being received by computer from PIR actions. So.....

    either

    a) The radio signal from the PIRs is not being received by the sc9000 or
    b) the sc9000 is not transforming these into x10 signals

    so my next steps are:

    1) Reset the PIRs and re-link them to the sc9000 and restest

    otherwise, I suspect that there must be something wrong with the sc9000 unit.

    any comments/suggestions?
    __________________________________________________ _______________________
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  9. #9
    Moderator toscal's Avatar
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    What PIRs are you using. Security ones (MS18E/MS90E) or the MS13E2 Hawk eye. If its the security ones have you made sure the alarm has registered them. If it has then try setting of the alarm by triggering the PIR. Also if its one of the security type sensors then to get it to trigger an x10 command it needs to be assigned to a zone from 27 to 32 and the house code if panel is on A is B and the unit number is from 7 to 12. So if the panel is on B and the sensor is assigned to zone 28 then the X10 address for that sensor will be C8.

    If its the Hawk eye type then try setting it to a different house code and unit code. But make sure that the house and unit code does not interfere with ones used in the panel. if the panel is set to A then they are A1,A2, B4,B5, B7 to B12 (see above for usage of these codes) and B13 to B16 (these are used for the digimax thermostat) If the panel is set to B then it would be B1, B2, C4 etc.
    IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.
    www.casatech.eu Renovation Spain Blog

  10. #10
    Automated Home Sr Member jaffab's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by toscal View Post
    What PIRs are you using.

    If its the Hawk eye type then try setting it to a different house code and unit code. But make sure that the house and unit code does not interfere with ones used in the panel. if the panel is set to A then they are A1,A2, B4,B5, B7 to B12 (see above for usage of these codes) and B13 to B16 (these are used for the digimax thermostat) If the panel is set to B then it would be B1, B2, C4 etc.
    Its the Movement/light sensors (MS13E). The three units with problems and the associated codes used are:

    Lounge sensor - A3 movement, A4 light
    Garage sensor - a5 movement, A6 light
    Toilet sensor - A12 movement, a13 light

    the house code is A (remember I have an all house filter so not worried about other X10 on the same house code, so main lights are A1 and A2 (as far as the Sc9000 is concerned for alarm lights)), so I could change the house/unit code on one of the units to B14 and B15 on a sample unit and will try it.
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