Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: maximum watts lw12

  1. #1
    Automated Home Lurker
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    3

    Question maximum watts lw12

    Hi there,
    I am looking to join the world of home automation, most likely through x10,I wonder if anyoine has an answer to my little quandry?
    I would like to start off by controlling the lights in my kitchen from my computer,probably with a c15pro and a lw12, however I have a large(ish)kitchen with 12x50watt halogens . I understand from the data on the lw12 that the max watts is 300 which is some way off what i require! Does any one have an answer to this problem , and if so be kind enough to share it with me. Oh, also, there are two single switches in the kitchen, one at either entrance would i require two lw12 or similar?.
    Kind regards
    tom

  2. #2
    Moderator toscal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Near Alicante Spain
    Posts
    2,010

    Default

    You could use an appliance module. AW12 As this has a rating of 3600W.
    IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.
    www.casatech.eu Renovation Spain Blog

  3. #3
    Automated Home Lurker
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    3

    Default

    Thank you for your reply toscal, I suppose i could use an appliance module, would this mean i would have to sacrifice the dim feature? This wouldn't be too much of an issue as I have under cupboard lights, which give a nice mood setting.

    tom

  4. #4
    Automated Home Legend TimH's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    503

    Default

    Yes, 12x 50W = 600W…
    You could wire 6 lights to one LW12 and the remaining 6 lights to a second LW12 and give both modules the same house code, that way they can be controlled as a pair. (Note: keep the wiring separate between the two modules/banks of lights and *don’t* be tempted to physically wire the module outputs together to feed all lamps in parallel). Using two modules also gives you the option of controlling the two banks separately if you give the modules different addresses.

    Data for the LW12 here (http://www.letsautomate.com/11608.cfm) suggests a max limit of 250W, so you’d need three separate modules (4 lights each) for the above example. An LD11 (http://www.letsautomate.com/10002.cfm?) has max capacity of 700W so you’d only need one, and it’s cheaper than a LW12…

    Or change to lower-wattage bulbs, but dropping from 50W to 25W might be too much of a change.

    Re: the switches, if you have standard UK light switches you might want to change them (you will *need* to change them for the LW12 option) for momentary (or “retractive”) switches and wire them in parallel to the relevant input contacts. If you stick with standard UK on/off switches the modules will ignore the computer-generated (i.e. power line) commands.


    HTH,

    Tim.

  5. #5
    Automated Home Lurker
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    3

    Default

    Thank you for your detialed and informative reply Tim! I think I will go with the higher wattage lamp module, and mount it on a din rail somewhere.
    My brother thinks it's absurd that I have 600 watts in lights alone in the kitchen, LOL! He thinks I should change to super energy saving ones, however if i can start by automating my home this should at least half my energy costs in the lighting department. thanks again

    kind regards
    tom

  6. #6
    Moderator toscal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Near Alicante Spain
    Posts
    2,010

    Default

    There have been some reliability issues with the din rail mounted X10 modules. We had to replace 6 in one install, they all went within a week of each other. Becuase of this we have developed a special din rail adapter for the micro modules. See this forum for details http://www.automatedhome.co.uk/vbull...light=Din+rail Price is now cheaper too.
    Mind you the din rail x10 modules (LD11) I have in my office have been working for over 2 years.
    IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.
    www.casatech.eu Renovation Spain Blog

  7. #7
    Automated Home Legend TimH's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    503

    Default

    @toscal
    Were these all LD11s or a mix of AD10s too?
    IIRC that LD11s should have an air gap either side to allow the heat to escape - maybe they got too warm?

    I've had no issues with the ones I run here, but then I'm more at the lower end of the loading rather than the top.


    @oldahato
    No problem
    Just make sure the LD11 is accessible for future maintenance!


    Cheers,

    Tim.

    Quote Originally Posted by toscal View Post
    There have been some reliability issues with the din rail mounted X10 modules. We had to replace 6 in one install, they all went within a week of each other. Becuase of this we have developed a special din rail adapter for the micro modules. See this forum for details http://www.automatedhome.co.uk/vbull...light=Din+rail Price is now cheaper too.
    Mind you the din rail x10 modules (LD11) I have in my office have been working for over 2 years.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •