Sash Window Sensors

[Andrew Millne]

I'm trying to work out the best way to fit sensors to double hung sliding sash windows. Has anybody been down this route before?



I was thinking if I used the flush mount recessed "bullet style" reed switches then I could drill/countersunk and back fill the magnets in the bottom rail of the bottom sash, and the meeting rail of the top sash. I'm not sure if the wires won't interfere with the weights and pulleys in the box though.

[TimH]

I haven't done it but my first thought was as yours - to fit the magnets to the bottom rail of the bottom sash.
I think I understand what you mean with the top pane, but would think that the same approach as for the bottom might be better (i.e. magnets in top surface of top sash with reed switch(es) fitted into the very top of the surrounding frame.

Even if the wires don't get tangled with the sash ropes & weights, all that constant flexing can't be good for the longevity of the alarm cable.

HTH,

Tim.

[broadk]

Andrew, I've been looking into this as well and have so far been led to believe that retro-fitting will be somewhat troublesome. Have you considered alternative sensor types? I've start to think about the use of break-glass sensors for intrusion but will sadly miss the ability to determine open/close state.

k.

[panny]

Why will the cables flex and pull? The magnet can go in the sash and the reed can be in the cill or the top rail so doesn't need to move. You can hide the cable between the frame and the brick although there is usually enought space next to the tensioners.

[toscal]

why not go wireless. and use something like this Infinte Prime INF-RX8 http://www.espuk.com/intro_rx8.htm and connect the outputs to your system.

[Andrew Millne]

I've start to think about the use of break-glass sensors for intrusion but will sadly miss the ability to determine open/close state.

That is the problem. I don't intend to use them just for intrusion detection, I would like to use them to inhibit the heating in rooms where windows and doors are open and remind me I've left a window open when I leave the house etc.

The magnet can go in the sash and the reed can be in the cill or the top rail so doesn't need to move. You can hide the cable between the frame and the brick although there is usually enought space next to the tensioners.

That is what I was thinking, The windows do need a bit of work in the way of sanding and re-painting so any rebates/countersinks could be tidied up easily at the same time. I had thought about taking them out and getting them dip-stripped and re-glazed but I think it may be a little too much disruption. I also can't find any reputable companies in the North East to do it at a reasonable cost.

why not go wireless. and use something like this Infinte Prime INF-RX8 http://www.espuk.com/intro_rx8.htm and connect the outputs to your system.

That's an idea. I'll keep that in mind if there is no easy way of fitting concealed switches.

Thanks everybody.