One for Chris?
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I don't think the energy meters have a fast enough response to do something like this, I think real-time power, or at least current, measurements are required. The DIN mount meters actual measure energy and power is then inferred from the energy readings.----------------------
www.gumbrell.com
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Found it. Couldn't remember who did it, but after some Googling. Found that Xantech do a current sensing module. This might be better for seeing if an individual piece of equipment is on or off.
Here are the links, the sensor is also available in 230V 50Hz as well.
Seems if you use the CBCSM1 with the sensor then it can be used with any HA system as it just passes a control voltage when the equipment is on, either 0V or 12V depending on how it is set up.Last edited by toscal; 9 October 2010, 11:50 AM.IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.
Renovation Spain Blog
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>too slow ...
if the device has been off & then it's on, the meter will start pulsing after 1/2000kWhr, which for 100W would be after 3 seconds = yep, too slow !
Hager do indicator light modules, for use with current clamps :
(page 378) which it's tempting to say might be modified ... (?)
>Xantech ...
interesting, though they'd cost about 130USD per set, and adjustment controls seem to be analogue, so it might (?) be that reliability & drift could be issues :
OTOH, simplest approach might be to do this the other way 'round - ie: use an Idratek button (or third-party button wired to a digital input) & relay + dimmer modules etc to switch everything ... ie: a button to command Cortex to deliver the lot !
That's more or less what we're intending to do, anyway - ie: a four-button module in the the room somewhere convenient, which can be programmed in Cortex to provide direct commands for particular set-ups, with some of the four being used to stage things if necessary ...
eg: (in lounge, say) button 1 = get things ready to watch a movie, button 2 = do / don't interrupt toggle, button 3 = lights up a bit, button 4 = lights down a bit ...
eg: (in kitchen-diner, say) button 1 = lights for cooking, button 2 = lights for eating, button 3 = lights for clearing-up, button 4 = do / don't interrupt toggle ...
etc ...
easily reprogrammed if needs change, too ...Last edited by chris_j_hunter; 9 October 2010, 12:55 PM.
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how about this (Honeywell S&C - CSLA2CF - current sensor) instead :
not sure I understand how to wire it up, though, with what Idratek module, and while this gives more info', it leaves me still in the dark :
this gives even more, but still leaves me unclear :
???Last edited by chris_j_hunter; 9 October 2010, 07:58 PM.
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These current sensors are another option. Only 2 connections.
This i_Snail has just a contact closure output. So possibly easier to interface.
And another manufacturer. I know a few people over at the homeseer forums have used devices from these people.IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.
Renovation Spain Blog
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