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Thread: Idratek Workboard - Is this ok for testing?

  1. #1
    Automated Home Sr Member eddr's Avatar
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    Default Idratek Workboard - Is this ok for testing?

    Hi all,

    I received my first set of modules today (Exciting! Thanks Karam)

    The picture below is of what I aim to do to start playing with the kit, before I start can someone tell me whether this is ok (For testing only of course). It's all mounted on a bit of wood and the modules are inside surface mounting patresses (plastic).

    The test is going to be a simple one, the door bell button will turn the light on for a few seconds, the light sensor will turn the light on when it goes dark. I am just putting this up to make sure nobody spots anything I shouldn't be doing (Remember it is just a test, I know this is not the way to do things in an actual house).

    Heres the pic, don't laugh! - Brown is live (I know it's red now), yellow earth, blue neutural.


  2. #2
    Automated Home Legend Karam's Avatar
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    Presume there is the 12V PSU between the mains and the MPD? The lightning bolt scared me

    Don't know if earth is absolutely necessary to the plastic back box since the DRB itself does not have an earth connection.

    This daisy chained configuration looks ok. You can of course also use other spurs on the MPD to do a star or part star configuration if you wanted.

    As you are just starting, may I remind you to commission (plug in) the DRB and LPS modules one at a time. The PCU is supplied pre-commissioned these days.

    Of course there are umpteen other things you could do, but one off the top of my head - how about also button 1 on the DRB acting as a light toggle and the LED next to it acting as a light state indicator? That should exercise you Cortex programming skills. Also for fun you can try remote access via the Cortex web server, or get the button press (or indeed the light state change) to send you an e-mail.

    Also, it would be possible to implement your stated functions in Reflex alone, i.e so that they can run without the PC. Again perhaps another good learning exercise.

  3. #3
    Automated Home Sr Member eddr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Karam View Post
    Presume there is the 12V PSU between the mains and the MPD? The lightning bolt scared me

    Don't know if earth is absolutely necessary to the plastic back box since the DRB itself does not have an earth connection.

    This daisy chained configuration looks ok. You can of course also use other spurs on the MPD to do a star or part star configuration if you wanted.

    As you are just starting, may I remind you to commission (plug in) the DRB and LPS modules one at a time. The PCU is supplied pre-commissioned these days.

    Of course there are umpteen other things you could do, but one off the top of my head - how about also button 1 on the DRB acting as a light toggle and the LED next to it acting as a light state indicator? That should exercise you Cortex programming skills. Also for fun you can try remote access via the Cortex web server, or get the button press (or indeed the light state change) to send you an e-mail.

    Also, it would be possible to implement your stated functions in Reflex alone, i.e so that they can run without the PC. Again perhaps another good learning exercise.
    Karam,

    Yep, thanks - good advice and ideas as usual! This is my aim really, get it all sussed out, I wont be in the good books if I don't get things right when it's all put in our house! And yeah I just forgot to put the 12v psu in the picture... (Changed it now!)

  4. #4
    Automated Home Legend Paul_B's Avatar
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    I'll second Karam concerning Reflex programming. The ability for the modules to work without a PC is key selling point for me. Since implementation by PC has been upgraded, changed or failed on a number of occasions. Reflex means the lights and other things will still function (ok so at a slightly less intelligent level) but you house doesn't suddenly become unusable. Also with Reflex in mind have a look at the watchdog function. When your PC fails then a countdown can be used to reset the modules from Cortex control to Reflex.

    Have fun

    Paul

  5. #5
    Automated Home Sr Member ludditeal's Avatar
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    I would second the Reflex bit (Allan still yet to do it despite having a hard disk crash that wiped out his Idratek install recently) as once you start to use Idratex, life without it doesn't impress SWMBO. "What do you mean we can't have the kitchen lights on"...

    For new wiring live is in fact now brown. Red is the old colour. Existing wiring can remain with that colour but all new wiring should be done in Brown/Blue/Green&Yellow.

    Regards
    Allan

  6. #6
    Automated Home Legend chris_j_hunter's Avatar
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    Reflex - curious to know, do people use the auto' option, at least to get started, or do they do it all by hand (as it were) ? How easy is it, in practice ?

  7. #7
    Automated Home Legend Paul_B's Avatar
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    I don't Chris because I come from a period when auto config didn't exist with Cortex. I do often commision new modules and then forget to set the reflex function which is abit annoying

    Paul

  8. #8
    Automated Home Sr Member eddr's Avatar
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    I was also wondering this, I'll have a go at learning/manual rather than pressing the auto button I think!


    I've just started wiring the connectors, does anyone have any tips on doing this? It's a bit tricky for me - any tips on the best way to take away the insulation from the individual strands ? I seem to always end up cutting off too much and don't want to risk damaging the copper (I'm using the c-bus stuff so it is solid).

  9. #9
    Automated Home Legend chris_j_hunter's Avatar
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    not tried it, yet, but this has been recommended by others in the past :

    http://www.comms-express.com/product...able-stripper/

  10. #10
    Automated Home Guru JonS's Avatar
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    I use a small craft knife to score the insulation and then use my thumbnail to strip. I find stranded cable easier to wire than the solid cbus (I have both). With solid its particularly important not to score the copper as it then snaps when you bend it. Then you have to restrip all the cores to get the lengths even again :-(
    JonS

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