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Thread: Couple of questions (Heating & Bathroom Pull switch)

  1. #1
    Automated Home Sr Member eddr's Avatar
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    Default Couple of questions (Heating & Bathroom Pull switch)

    Hi again all, got a couple of easy (I think) questions....

    1) I plan to take control of central heating past the heating timer, so the original plan was put a relay module inbetween the timer and thermostat. This is cable has 3 wires, which according to the thermostat is Neutral (black) Live (red) and Call (Yellow). The question is, how can I wire it up so I can put a switch to choose whether the 'normal' thermostat is in control, or the relay module ? And which wires would go where?

    2) I was planning on doing away with the bathroom pull switch (Just having it perm. on and putting a relay module after it). I then thought - People may actually want to turn the light off in a normal manner, so can I make the pull switch into a digital input (Obviously re-routing the live out of the pull switch and into the relay) ? I would make Cortex toggle the light whenever the switch was changed.

    Thanks in advance!

  2. #2
    Automated Home Sr Member cliffwright's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by eddr View Post

    2) I was planning on doing away with the bathroom pull switch (Just having it perm. on and putting a relay module after it). I then thought - People may actually want to turn the light off in a normal manner, so can I make the pull switch into a digital input (Obviously re-routing the live out of the pull switch and into the relay) ? I would make Cortex toggle the light whenever the switch was changed.
    I'm facing a similar decision right now . . . I can't really see that I'll have any need to manually switch anything in our bathroom - it should be pretty fool proof as an automated setup . . . but . . . you never can forsee every eventuality until it crops up . . . so I've also been thinking about including a manual override switch in our bathroom too. I had entertained a similar thought to you - using the pull-cord as a digital input switch - but in the end I think I'm going to end up simply using the 2nd button of a module that will be on the wall outside as part of the landing lighting setup . . . this way it keeps the bathroom setup nice and clean (and the ceiling less cluttered) yet I still have an 'emergency' way of toggling the lights if absolutely needed.

  3. #3
    Automated Home Ninja Viv's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by eddr View Post
    Hi again all, got a couple of easy (I think) questions....

    1) I plan to take control of central heating past the heating timer, so the original plan was put a relay module inbetween the timer and thermostat. This is cable has 3 wires, which according to the thermostat is Neutral (black) Live (red) and Call (Yellow). The question is, how can I wire it up so I can put a switch to choose whether the 'normal' thermostat is in control, or the relay module ? And which wires would go where?

    Thanks in advance!
    You should wire the Idratek relay ACROSS the thermostate. That is either the thermostate switches closed when its cold or the relay closes to make the circuit.

    In Cortex operation the manual timer is set to permanently on and the thermostate turned down as low as possible e.g. 5C. Then when Cortex demands heat the relay is closed and the heating turns on.

    For old operation method the timer is set back to on twice a day an the thermostate turned back up.

    If you wire it in between like you suggested to get old operation working the Idratek relay would need to close.

    Viv

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    Automated Home Sr Member eddr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cliffwright View Post
    I'm facing a similar decision right now . . . I can't really see that I'll have any need to manually switch anything in our bathroom - it should be pretty fool proof as an automated setup . . . but . . . you never can forsee every eventuality until it crops up . . . so I've also been thinking about including a manual override switch in our bathroom too. I had entertained a similar thought to you - using the pull-cord as a digital input switch - but in the end I think I'm going to end up simply using the 2nd button of a module that will be on the wall outside as part of the landing lighting setup . . . this way it keeps the bathroom setup nice and clean (and the ceiling less cluttered) yet I still have an 'emergency' way of toggling the lights if absolutely needed.
    I did think of using the landing light, but as the switch is 'central' to the landing, I think it would confuse people as to which button for landing light - but hey, the lights will be coming on by themselves so why would they need to touch it anyway? - Maybe I'll do both - label the buttons and still have the pull cord as a switch.

  5. #5
    Automated Home Sr Member eddr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Viv View Post
    You should wire the Idratek relay ACROSS the thermostate. That is either the thermostate switches closed when its cold or the relay closes to make the circuit.

    In Cortex operation the manual timer is set to permanently on and the thermostate turned down as low as possible e.g. 5C. Then when Cortex demands heat the relay is closed and the heating turns on.

    For old operation method the timer is set back to on twice a day an the thermostate turned back up.

    If you wire it in between like you suggested to get old operation working the Idratek relay would need to close.

    Viv
    Thanks Viv I shall try this at the earliest oppurtunity.

    P.S: I just realised you can multi-quote!

  6. #6
    Automated Home Sr Member cliffwright's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by eddr View Post
    I did think of using the landing light, but as the switch is 'central' to the landing, I think it would confuse people as to which button for landing light - but hey, the lights will be coming on by themselves so why would they need to touch it anyway? - Maybe I'll do both - label the buttons and still have the pull cord as a switch.
    Quite; that was my thought (Mine is also more central than anything). I can only see it being 'in emergencies' or for maintenance scenarios, so to me it doesn't matter that "people" don't intuitively realise where the switch is, because it'll only be yourself or someone within your household that 'knows' that'll be using it.

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