"unbinding" HR80

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  • des0tds
    Automated Home Lurker
    • Oct 2012
    • 5

    "unbinding" HR80

    Hi folks,
    Have something like 20 HR80 RF controlled radiator valves, bound to HC60NG receiver and CM67Z controller, in two zones. Turns out I want more control than this though - particularly in the utility room, which has cat flap drafting straight onto the HR80 ...
    Is it feasible to "unbind" that (and a few other) HR80s, and operate them independently? Would they now operate almost as standard temperature controlled valves, albeit with hotwater only coming through when one of the remaining bound HR80s tell the boiler to come on? Can I bind them to the HC60NG *without* binding to CM67Z so that they still operate the boiler? Or if I unbind them, will they just not work at all?
    Alternatively, am I right in assuming I can just disconnect the motor bit when I know the valve is turned off, leavint the radiator turned off?
    Thanks folks!
    Tim
  • SensibleHeatUK
    Moderator
    • Feb 2009
    • 228

    #2
    If you factory reset your CM67 and HR80s then re-bind just the HR80s you want controlled by the CM67 then your remaining unbound HR80s will work stand-alone thermostatic valves. You will set and adjust the temperature setpoint on these using the dial on top as there is no communication with the CM67. You also have no feedback to the boiler from these units as the HC60NG does not bind directly to the HR80s (and it only has 4 address slots in any case).

    If you want improved control with full boiler feedback then consider using more CM67s to increase your zone control or replace your existing CM67 with Evo Touch (providing you are happy to use 2 or more Evo Touch controllers as they only control 8 rooms) or use Hometronic which gives you 16 zones of heating control plus additional time zones for hot water (should you want everything connected to a single controller). In either case both of the replacement controllers will work with your existing HR80s and HC60NG.
    Sensible Heat
    SensibleHeat.co.uk

    Comment

    • des0tds
      Automated Home Lurker
      • Oct 2012
      • 5

      #3
      Originally posted by SensibleHeatUK View Post
      If you factory reset your CM67 and HR80s then re-bind just the HR80s you want controlled by the CM67 then your remaining unbound HR80s will work stand-alone thermostatic valves. You will set and adjust the temperature setpoint on these using the dial on top as there is no communication with the CM67. You also have no feedback to the boiler from these units as the HC60NG does not bind directly to the HR80s (and it only has 4 address slots in any case).

      If you want improved control with full boiler feedback then consider using more CM67s to increase your zone control or replace your existing CM67 with Evo Touch (providing you are happy to use 2 or more Evo Touch controllers as they only control 8 rooms) or use Hometronic which gives you 16 zones of heating control plus additional time zones for hot water (should you want everything connected to a single controller). In either case both of the replacement controllers will work with your existing HR80s and HC60NG.
      That's brilliant - thanks for your help!! I'd seen I could get more CM67s or the Evo Touch/Hometronic things, but I'm not sure I care enough to splash the cash there ...
      Do I actually need to go through the factory reset of the CM67, therefore needing to rebind all the HR80s? Can I not just do the un-bind of the single HR80? Or does the CM67 then keep looking for it or something?
      Cheers,
      T

      Comment

      • SensibleHeatUK
        Moderator
        • Feb 2009
        • 228

        #4
        I'm pretty certain that the CM67 will "know" that it is no longer communicating with the HR80 having previously been registered, and that will then cause the HC60NG to be operated in failsafe mode due to the "failed" HR80. You can always try it to see, and if this is the case then you know you need to factory reset the system and re-bind. I'd be tempted to do this in any case as a "belt & braces" approach just to be certain there are no other little quirks in the binding mechanisms that may be waiting to catch you out :-)
        Sensible Heat
        SensibleHeat.co.uk

        Comment

        • des0tds
          Automated Home Lurker
          • Oct 2012
          • 5

          #5
          That's great - again profuse thanks Sensible one! Not sure which I'll do as re-binding all the HR80s in the house would be, uh, a bind!!
          T

          Comment

          • des0tds
            Automated Home Lurker
            • Oct 2012
            • 5

            #6
            Hoping SensibleHeatUk is out there still ... or someone else as good!
            This system has given problems and more problems.
            * As with the original discussion I've decoupled several HR80s, which seems to have worked fine. I haven't decoupled all, then recoupled some; just decoupled the annoying ones. Any issues with that?
            * I've had rooms sweltering when the radiator's are set to 5 deg C! Two possible causes I think I've identified: 1) battery is low, but not low enough to trigger the "battery low" message; 2) the controller motor not being able to rotate far enough to shut the valve - attaching the HR80 by hand wouldn't get the motor close enough to the pin, but tightening it up (hard!) with a pipe wrench seems now to have worked. Do these sound like "normal" things?
            * more worryingly right now - i've set the heating to "off" on the CM67Z, but the "always on" radiator is still always on. Assumed it would go off when the heating was turned off. Any suggestions?
            Thanks!

            Comment

            • IanYork
              • Jun 2013
              • 1

              #7
              Hi des0tds,

              I had the same problem as you with the CM67z/HC60NG/HR80 combination.

              Originally posted by des0tds View Post
              * more worryingly right now - i've set the heating to "off" on the CM67Z, but the "always on" radiator is still always on. Assumed it would go off when the heating was turned off. Any suggestions?
              In my case it is a HR80 with a poor battery connection that causes the problem. If at any time a bound HR80 runs out of battery, the HC60NG goes in to a mode where it fires up the boiler regularly to keep the system water at operating temperature, so the open radiators get hot. You can see my saga in another forum. Check all the batteries and the battery connections, and check that all of the HR80s are correctly bound - we have one that occasionally "drops out" and that has the same effect on controller unit as a flat battery.

              It was also compounded by a faulty NC60NG unit, which we replaced.

              Good luck.

              Comment

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