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Thread: Conrad FHT radiator actuators

  1. #1
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    Default Conrad FHT radiator actuators

    I have just purchased a full set of actuators and replaced most of the TRV "heads" in the house.

    I have a several of valves which the actuators don't fit with the adapters supplied. Since the old ones seem of various unspecified types is there an easy source of reference so I can look for suitable adapters.

    I am not a plumber so don't want to replace the actual valves due to the cost of having it done professionally.

    A number are Danfoss clip-on heads and when I use the smaller screw-on adapter supplied I get F2 errors from the actuators.

    One has a smaller diameter valve then the actuators.

    Once all are installed I plan to move on to phase 2 which is central control and the boiler module.

    Any suggestions as to how to identify the correct adapters / sources of them would be appreicated

    Many thanks

  2. #2

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    If the valves are old then you would be better served replacing the valves - they do wear out or become sticky, and this then compromises the control of the affected areas which defeats the purpose of adding the controls in the first place.

    I don't know what connections the Conrad system uses as standard, but I can recommend the Honeywell TRV bodies as these are some of the most reliable around. They can also be serviced in-situ and have the innards replaced too should they need attention in future. The screw fitting between the actuator and valve body used by Honeywell (and now many other manufacturers) has become a sort of industry standard, so stick with this fitting if you do decide to change.

    If the Conrad system uses the threaded connector (like the Honeywell HR80s) then you could potentially buy the Honeywell adapters for certain modals of TRV, however the costs are more than likely more than the cost of a new valve body (although not the cost of the plumber to fit them), and they are not commonly available, so most suppliers would need to make a special order from Honeywell.
    Sensible Heat
    SensibleHeat.co.uk

  3. #3
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    Hi

    Quote Originally Posted by Smacombe View Post
    I have just purchased a full set of actuators and replaced most of the TRV "heads" in the house.

    A number are Danfoss clip-on heads and when I use the smaller screw-on adapter supplied I get F2 errors from the actuators.
    I had trouble with these too. You have to make sure you use the right adapter and that you push it far enough on to the fitting. There is a collar on the adapter which has to fit in a groove on the valve body. It meant pushing it on much further than I thought, but once it was seated correctly you could tell it was right. Then it worked fine.

    Quote Originally Posted by Smacombe View Post

    One has a smaller diameter valve then the actuators.
    I had one of these too - they are an old fashioned brand of TRV only found in the UK. You can get adaptors for them (I found one randomly on ebay, and conrad had some too) but they aren't cheap for what they are.

    I must say I tend to agree with the other post. It isn't that difficult to change the valve bodies yourself, just need to drain down the system and get a decent set of spanners. If you can find the adaptors then you will be fine but the effort and expense might be better directed to changing the bodies!

    FWIW I have done the full system with boiler control etc and I have been very happy with it. Just about to move into a much bigger house, so will see what it is like there.

    James

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    I think I replaced all of my rad valves with the Drayton RT212 and found they fit the Conrad / HouseHeat / FHT80 / whatever-it's-officially-called system very well. See http://www.screwfix.com/p/drayton-rt...m-angled/25900.

    Russ

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    Quote Originally Posted by russell_allen View Post
    I think I replaced all of my rad valves with the Drayton RT212 and found they fit the Conrad / HouseHeat / FHT80 / whatever-it's-officially-called system very well. Russ
    And the great thing about the Drayton RT212 is that the valve bodies (EB) are identical to those used in the TRV4s, at much reduced cost - great if you're not going to use the head anyway

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    Many thanks for all the advice. I had a plumber come and replace the valves (cos I'm a plumbing coward). GREAT decision as it took them 4 hours to get the system refilled etc - a couple of aquard rads so with my skills I might still be at it. Cost 120 for the labour I used Honeywell valves and all is now running correctly. I will be moving on to phase 2 which is the boiler control etc any time so Ill probably be after more advice then.

    Once again. Many thanks to all those who offered help

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    I've seen a couple of comments on the actuators being a bit noisy when opening/closing the valve. How have you found them? If they are likely to be noisy it looks like I'll have to consider an alternative system as I can't see "the boss" liking them :/

    R

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    Well they definitely aren't silent, but I always sleep through any changes etc. They don't change all that often for me.... so I definitely find it acceptable from the noise perspective. One has just changed position in the room Im in and it was about one second of noise, and distinctly quieter than a washing machine in the next room on a quiet part of its cycle. They dont trouble the dogs and in the past few months no-one has complained about the noise or even commented to me about it.

    I suspect your only answer is to buy one and see as we all have different tolerances.

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    Thanks - that's helpful. I'm looking at a solution for a whole section of the house that's being totally replumbed after fire damage, but your suggestion has given me a good idea - I could try them in a room we are currently using that gets too hot sometimes, so this would be perfect - even if they're not approved by management for in bedrooms, I'm sure they'll be fine in a living room so they won't be wasted.

    Wish me luck!

  10. #10
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    There about as loud as a mobile phone ringing on silent mode and vibrating on a table, maybe slightly quieter, but that should give you an idea.

    Im very sensitive to noise, but have got used to them in no time.

    Normally the noise is for 3-7 seconds.

    However, in the morning, if there going from totally closed, to totally open, you can expect the noise to be for about 20 seconds in 4 short bursts.

    HTH

    Fon

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