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Thread: Which TRVs / home heating control system should I go for?

  1. #11
    Automated Home Jr Member
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    Feb 2013
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    Thank you wysinawyg, that’s really helpful.

    Options now for me:

    Evohome and single controller to start off with. I’m not sure if need separate water controller @ 283 because of stored water demand on the Megaflo. Having read a couple of reviews, it looks unlikely that this system is compatible with the unvented cylinder from Megaflo. So that rules it out by default.

    So final option is:
    Conrad with the fhz1000 wireless controller as I would want stability longer term rather than have to constantly monitor with the likes of the Indigo system. I guess it will need the FHT 8W for controlling demand and this would replace the current thermostat we have in the downstairs hallway. The wireless controller would be sufficient to control all of the components needed. I’d look at buying from Germany as you suggest. The issue I have is that the controller and room stat is the German programming irrespective of where it is bought, but I guess I’d get used to it.

    So a couple more questions (Sorry…..):
    - Am I correct in thinking that I can use 2 actuators with a room stat (for the living room) ;
    - Looking at the Conrad website, it seems I can use 15 room stats with the wireless control unit, so that works great for our set up. Is this correct, or limited to 8 or so like the Evohome?
    - Finally, having read the documentation for the FHT8W heating controller, am I right in thinking that the 2 cables needing connected are: 1-Power, and 2-a cable in to the boiler to replace the existing room thermostat in the boiler? Fairly straightforward if it is! I guess the time will be spent trying to pair all of the actuators to the room stats and then these to the wireless controller and then this to the heating controller. Plus programming will take a while too!

    Thank you for your help on this and apologies for my ignorance!

  2. #12

  3. #13
    Automated Home Jr Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Otto-Mate View Post
    That's the one! Thanks Otto-Mate!

    It's a few months off coming to the market, but seems to have the features I'm after. The only obvious negative is that it doesn't have a separate room stat. I guess I will also need to wait to find out whether it is compatible with my Megaflo unvented cylinder.

    Also not sure how they can justify 77 per rad stat when you get an actuator/room sstatwindow sensor from Conrad for 20% less, but I guess that's the price of progress.

    Ho hum, I'm not the most patient once I get an idea in my head, but guess that I will have to be this time!

  4. #14
    Automated Home Lurker
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    Oct 2013
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    They say its compatible with the old gear so you should be able to use the current generation room stats, its just they've prettied up the radiator valve.

    I'd gotten as far as getting a quote from Vesternet for a z-wave system and nearly pushed the button yesterday. Sadly looks like another winter of a dumb heating system though as this does look very good and I at least want to see what comes out in terms of the app and any API.

  5. #15
    Automated Home Jr Member
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    Dec 2012
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    I wouldnt chance 15 room stats with the conrad system,

    Its starts really buckling at 10.

    Fon

  6. #16
    Automated Home Jr Member
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    Dec 2013
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    Our heating system temperature and hot water are not independently adjustable
    Why?

    If you have zone valves you should be able to limit the HW temp to 60 and limit the CH temp to whatever you want. If you don't have zones even for HW then you should fit them.

    Some other thoughts besides the FHT stuff (which I also have). These are the things that will save you the most money.

    - you need HW priority if you are going to have different temps for HW and CH (may require a relay)

    - use an aquarium thermostat on the HW cylinder (plus the safety cutoff overheat stat if you have one). An aquarium stat allows digital setting of degrees to 1/10th degree, and also setting of the hysteresis. Unlike the crude things sold by plumbers merchants. 10 on ebay. Less heat wasted from the tank as it is safe (>=60) but cooler than it might have been.

    - extra lagging on the HW tank. A big one like yours loses 2kWH/day even with the built-in lagging. The fact that it feels cold is no guide. Mine is in a Kingspan box with extra lagging (wool-based from B&Q) around it.

    - perhaps even a tempering valve on the HW outlet to mix with cold, thus making the tap temp cooler/safer/less likely to scald.

    - use a weather compensator. This reduces the CH flow temp as the outside temp rises. I'm assuming your boiler is a condensing boiler (it should be for decent efficiency). Reducing the flow temp avoids wasted heat, keeps the rads on cooler but longer, and makes the condensing process recover more latent heat. You can buy them but I made my own.

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