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  • chris_j_hunter
    Automated Home Legend
    • Dec 2007
    • 1713

    #16
    hmm, sorry, was too distracted when replied ... should have said they should go (as ours did) on the mains side of the driver - that being where the offending capacitor does its worst !


    PS: strictly speaking, as per the reg's, mains voltage is LV, and 9V / 12V / 15V / 24V / etc is ELV … but, of course, that's not how the terms are used in everyday conversation - which makes for many possibilities for confusion !
    Last edited by chris_j_hunter; 26 May 2014, 06:40 PM. Reason: typo
    Our self-build - going further with HA...

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    • Karam
      Automated Home Legend
      • Mar 2005
      • 863

      #17
      I think the devices you have suggested are probably ok. They are somewhat lower resistance than the ones which I think Chris might be using (10R vs 50R at 25C). This of course translates to less limiting but I think 10 ohms has got to be quite a bit better than the existing path resistance. The plus side is probably that it will not get as hot. My estimate based on the datasheet is around 50C for your load so should be ok in a terminal block. Or you might want to also try the 33R variant with Farnell order code: 1688797. This may go up to 60-70C with your load, which I would think is still acceptable.

      On the other hand for future LED lighting it maybe a good idea to opt for our ZC Triac based 'relays', currently only in the form of the QTI-001 (1A/ch equiv. of the QRI-002 - see: http://www.idratek.com/products/catalogue/qti-001), and the XTM-001 (accessory for BRS and DFP modules). Sorry haven't got a DRB substitute yet.

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      • Alexc
        Automated Home Sr Member
        • Apr 2013
        • 82

        #18
        I think I'm probably going to go with the triac-based relays. The next step was to install a DIN enclosure under the stairs and it just seems sensible to control the kitchen lights from there (it's a 'simple' route to under the floorboards in the upstairs hall where the kitchen lighting junction box is.

        I've enjoyed looking at the blogs of various other installations, and so here's my attempt... http://www.sandyhouse.co.uk/?p=98

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        • alexstephenson
          Automated Home Jr Member
          • May 2017
          • 15

          #19
          I Think you have to try HDMI Extender Over Cat 5e/6 - New installation

          The HDMI Extender by Cat5e/Cat6 lets you extend the distance between any HDMI-equipped DVD player, Media Centre PC or Games Console and your TV screen using Cat5 or Cat6 network cable.
          The transmitter and receiver are then connected over a longer distance by two lengths of Cat5e cable (or Cat6 cable). One Cat5e cable carries the HDMI DDC signals and the other Cat5e cable carries the HDMI Video and Audio signals.
          The HDMI over Cat6 enables an HDMI display to be located up to 30 meters away from the source device.
          The Hdmi over cat5e extender is perfect for the meeting room, home theater or any installation that needs long distance transmission and superior video quality.
          With support for High-Definition resolutions of up to 1920x1080 / 1080p, this HDMI extender can easily be installed using new or existing Ethernet

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