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Thread: New installation issues

  1. #11
    Automated Home Legend Karam's Avatar
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    Yes, there are various presentation formats provided. The Cortex mobile style is somehat different in that it is an HTML5 presentation which sits on top of the basic web server and gives a much more suitable app like format for use with smartphone and tablet type browsers (though it can also be used on desktops), but note that it is a paid for extension (we have to support development costs somehow..).

    If you are into XSL programming you can also of course create your own style or modify the existing ones.

  2. #12
    Automated Home Sr Member Alexc's Avatar
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    Great - I now have the module working again with a new ID. That all worked well - thanks.

    I need a bit of advice about the inrush limiters please. Would this one be suitable then? - http://bit.ly/1kdX5PF
    Total power of my five lights together is 45w, at 240v.
    If I mount the limiter in a metal backbox, with a metal lid, under the upstairs floorboards where the kitchen lighting wiring is, would that be a good place? I assume that the component needs to be after the relay (ie between the relay and the light), or doesn't it matter?
    If I screw a 5A connection block to the backbox as a means of connecting the limiter securely, will the heat dissipation be OK?

    How did you mount yours Chris?

    Thanks

    Alex

  3. #13
    Automated Home Legend chris_j_hunter's Avatar
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    lights - you need to calculate the current on the LV side, between driver & lamp, choose one suited to that current, and mount it on that side ...

    we ran the LV cables into a plastic box (with ventilation holes drilled in a few neat lines) via cable glands :

    http://www.rapidonline.com/FFSearchR...rSearchScope=1

    and soldered the inrush limiters directly to the wires, covering the joints with heat-shrink insulation ... then carefully positioned them mid-space & tightened the glands, to fix them there ...

    they run quite warm - given their warmed-up resistance, as per spec', you can calculate the wattage !

    PS: see later post for correction ...
    Last edited by chris_j_hunter; 25th May 2014 at 11:10 PM.

  4. #14
    Automated Home Sr Member Alexc's Avatar
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    My lamps aren't LV - the drivers are part of the fitting, and I only have access to the 240v side. Should I be looking at some thing more 'mainsy'?!

  5. #15
    Automated Home Sr Member Alexc's Avatar
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    ... Perhaps a contractor driven from the Idratek relay (or will that suffer the same problems)?

  6. #16
    Automated Home Legend chris_j_hunter's Avatar
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    hmm, sorry, was too distracted when replied ... should have said they should go (as ours did) on the mains side of the driver - that being where the offending capacitor does its worst !


    PS: strictly speaking, as per the reg's, mains voltage is LV, and 9V / 12V / 15V / 24V / etc is ELV … but, of course, that's not how the terms are used in everyday conversation - which makes for many possibilities for confusion !
    Last edited by chris_j_hunter; 26th May 2014 at 06:40 PM. Reason: typo

  7. #17
    Automated Home Legend Karam's Avatar
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    I think the devices you have suggested are probably ok. They are somewhat lower resistance than the ones which I think Chris might be using (10R vs 50R at 25C). This of course translates to less limiting but I think 10 ohms has got to be quite a bit better than the existing path resistance. The plus side is probably that it will not get as hot. My estimate based on the datasheet is around 50C for your load so should be ok in a terminal block. Or you might want to also try the 33R variant with Farnell order code: 1688797. This may go up to 60-70C with your load, which I would think is still acceptable.

    On the other hand for future LED lighting it maybe a good idea to opt for our ZC Triac based 'relays', currently only in the form of the QTI-001 (1A/ch equiv. of the QRI-002 - see: http://www.idratek.com/products/catalogue/qti-001), and the XTM-001 (accessory for BRS and DFP modules). Sorry haven't got a DRB substitute yet.

  8. #18
    Automated Home Sr Member Alexc's Avatar
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    I think I'm probably going to go with the triac-based relays. The next step was to install a DIN enclosure under the stairs and it just seems sensible to control the kitchen lights from there (it's a 'simple' route to under the floorboards in the upstairs hall where the kitchen lighting junction box is.

    I've enjoyed looking at the blogs of various other installations, and so here's my attempt... http://www.sandyhouse.co.uk/?p=98

  9. #19
    Automated Home Jr Member
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    I Think you have to try HDMI Extender Over Cat 5e/6 - New installation

    The HDMI Extender by Cat5e/Cat6 lets you extend the distance between any HDMI-equipped DVD player, Media Centre PC or Games Console and your TV screen using Cat5 or Cat6 network cable.
    The transmitter and receiver are then connected over a longer distance by two lengths of Cat5e cable (or Cat6 cable). One Cat5e cable carries the HDMI DDC signals and the other Cat5e cable carries the HDMI Video and Audio signals.
    The HDMI over Cat6 enables an HDMI display to be located up to 30 meters away from the source device.
    The Hdmi over cat5e extender is perfect for the meeting room, home theater or any installation that needs long distance transmission and superior video quality.
    With support for High-Definition resolutions of up to 1920x1080 / 1080p, this HDMI extender can easily be installed using new or existing Ethernet

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