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Thread: What would you like to see in evohome? (have your say)

  1. #261
    Moderator Kevin's Avatar
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    Thinking about it a bit more (always a good idea) I could just use a different manufacturers radio linked TRV to get the scheduling or, ignoring the financial cost - add a second controller just for that HR92 treating it as an independent system. Not neatly integrated in the one controller but would suffice for me.

  2. #262
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin View Post
    It's an area that I do vary the temperature in on a schedule and also want to have temp reporting from so I wanted to keep a bound HR92, but somehow uncouple the request for heat as it is almost permanently on (a sort of public access foyer area with frequently opening door to outside). I doubt many people want to do this so not a problem.

    There was an earlier post about future support for using a secondary heating system (electric underfloor) that was there to avoid generating a demand on the boiler, maybe that might offer a workaround.
    I have a similar thing. Downstairs loo and cupboard (why is there a radiator in the cupboard?! I don't know. It's quite a big cupboard!) I'd like to control the rads in there with HR92s. I'd like them to follow a schedule (i.e. close down over night). But I'm happy that they don't call for heat... unless for frost protection, of course.

  3. #263
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    Maybe oversimplifying the problem, but if you're okay with the radiator running along with any other TRV requesting heat except on specific times, why not use a simple wired actuator like the MT8 (the 230V version) and connect that to a timer switch or CoCo device?

  4. #264
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    Other option would be to have a HR92 in the zone and simply set it to off or a very low temp. That way it gives you the temp, but no heat would flow unless called for. Could also use the temp variance to trick it into having a higher or lower temp than reality?

  5. #265
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rameses View Post
    Thanks - its not just me - the product team read this forum - so Honeywell does take this feedback on board.
    Speaking personally (as I always do as views are my own in all cases) - We (anyone in interested in the smarter connected home) are in a odd quandary. Heating systems are not mobile phones. They are supposed to be integral infrastructure to the home. For every one person that wants the latest gadget there is someone who is content. That said we (all of us) need to innovate and I can honestly say there is a good roadmap, both driving value to existing products and new exciting ones coming. All of this has to be done with the one goal of never losing that trust & performance and delivering what the product is primarily intended to so. We will never knowingly sacrifice performance over being first to adopt, so in this respect other products may deliver what someone else values, which is fine.

    The input from this forum does get read and Honeywell will constantly innovate - so I know they 'thank you' for input as they see it as endorsement of the work they are doing (behind the scenes you cannot see)

    With ref to evohome security camera. I just wanted to point out, the camera is 640 x 352 (its a wireless motion sensor with camera) , but you have to consider, this is because it is was intended as an easily install-able product. It runs from 2 AA batteries designed to typically last 2 years!!! It is transmitting secure images across a 868Mhz low power spectrum - it pushes the boundaries of current technology with the original goal in mind. Other products can offer faster speeds, greater resolution, at the expense of larger battery blocks or needing to be hard wired. It is designed to show you if really have a burglar or if the cat knocked over the plant pot, providing more information for you to see if there is real cause for alarm. It is not intended to zoom in on the burglars face or show the tattoo detail on their arm. If this feature is needed then another product will be needed.
    Thanks for the reply an I appreciate your participation with us. Please understand that I am not knocking the Evohome functionality as a product and I appreciate that not everyone wants to control it by mobile phone, that's not what I'm talking about - I'm talking about integration into home automation, Apple HomeKit etc. What functionality it does have (Alexa for example) is limited and not using the full potential of the product or has to be done via the web via the comfort login, there always seems to be a fundamental limitation with any home automation or integration option - one of which is a difference in functionality from the USA version of comfort connect.

    As for the camera, again I appreciate what you are saying but I disagree. A low-resolution image of someone burgling my house is no good to no one. When buying a security system that protects my house then I *need* to know that I can trust the system to know the difference between a burglary and the cat knocking over a plant pot without sending an alert every time (Peter crying wolf?). Again, the product on its own has *some* merit but not as a reliable guardian - Honeywell need to have a high quality integrated HD camera because in a modern, integrated security product, I want it to either prevent someone from entering my house or be good enough to identify someone if they did get into my house. Without it it is a no-no for me and I should imagine the vast majority of people that were waiting for Honeywell to pull it out of the bag for their integrated security solution.

  6. #266
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    I would like:

    - More than one saveable Custom Schedule for different space uses eg. guest rooms and other occasionally used space in various combinations etc
    - Better DHW control - mine overshoots by 10C and isn't learning
    - Use of outside air temperature to improve optimisation and mitigate heating overshoots in summer. The latter is particularly important for cold mornings on hot days which mean that heat can be added to space but not lost before the day warms up. The Honeywell Aquatrol 2000 used a 24 hour moving average of outside temperature against a configurable set point to suppress space heating very effectively so it is something Honeywell knows how to do.
    - Better Opentherm compatibility with modern boilers to limit flow temperatures and use the boiler condensing efficiently eg. Viessmann
    - A user web interface or Windows UWP app

  7. #267
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    Quote Originally Posted by Don10 View Post

    - Better DHW control - mine overshoots by 10C and isn't learning

    - Better Opentherm compatibility with modern boilers to limit flow temperatures and use the boiler condensing efficiently

    - A user web interface or Windows UWP app
    I don't believe that there is any learning associated with DHW. I have had DHW control for 3 years now and the only small overshoots have been associated with hot water over-run. I suspect that the issue is a large differential between the boiler flow temperature and the DHW target temperature. My boiler currently has a flow temperature of 70C and a target temperature of 60C. Even with a one minute over-run, the cylinder temperature never goes above 60C.

    I agree that more information on Evohome Opentherm is needed. The Atag works well (i.e.; it doesn't over ride the boiler max flow temperature) but I am not sure that it gets into condensing mode as quickly as it should.

    I agree that a user web interface is long overdue. Scheduling with the controller is a pain. I would also like to have the ability to store/re-store controller settings.

  8. #268
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    Quote Originally Posted by Don10 View Post
    - Better DHW control - mine overshoots by 10C and isn't learning
    As mentioned by Hengus, there is no learning process for DHW - it heats until the temperature reaches the set temperature then closes the DHW zone valve - simple as that.

    If you're seeing a 10C overshoot you have a problem with the way your system is installed, or a comms problem to either hot water sensor or hot water BDR91. I'd suggest you start a new thread and describe your installation and hot water configuration as we may be able to help you sort it out.

    For what it's worth I had a lot of trouble with 12 degree overshoots when I first installed the DHW kit for Evohome, you can start reading here if you want to see details on that:

    http://www.automatedhome.co.uk/vbull...ll=1#post28631

    I did sort it out in the end, although it is still not 100% reliable so I see the occasional overshoot. (Maybe once a week vs a couple of times a day initially)
    Last edited by DBMandrake; 17th June 2017 at 10:28 PM.

  9. #269
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    Quote Originally Posted by DBMandrake View Post
    If you're seeing a 10C overshoot you have a problem with the way your system is installed, or a comms problem to either hot water sensor or hot water BDR91.
    It could just be a high boiler flow temperature coupled with a long hot water overrun. I've never quite understood the point of that setting.

  10. #270
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    Quote Originally Posted by dty View Post
    It could just be a high boiler flow temperature coupled with a long hot water overrun. I've never quite understood the point of that setting.
    A couple of degrees overshoot maybe, 10 degrees, no way, unless the overrun is set really long like 5 minutes, which would be crazy.

    Hot water overrun is for when you only have hot water demand and no heating demand - without it the boiler will be going full tilt (many systems push the flow temperature up to the maximum during hot water reheat) up until the point that the hot water temperature is satisfied, if you close the hot water zone valve at the same time you turn the boiler off all the flow will divert through the automatic bypass valve, which due to the latent heat in the boiler heat exchanger and the sudden removal of the "heat sink" that the cylinder provides, can cause the flow temperature to overshoot, potentially 10-15 degrees.

    How much it overshoots and whether it causes a problem depends on the cylinder and boiler design. On some old systems that are vented and/or have high mass heat exchangers (like mine) it can easily lead to kettling and steam production and in extreme cases vapour locking. Or on a more modern boiler it might lead to an over temperature lockout.

    Hot water overrun keeps the hot water zone valve open for X number of minutes after the boiler relay turns off, which gives time for the heat exchanger latent heat to be absorbed by the hot water cylinder so that when the zone valve is closed and the overrun goes through the ABV it doesn't cause a temperature overshoot in the boiler.

    Only 1 or 2 minutes should be necessary and shouldn't cause much overshoot in hot water temperature, maybe 1-2 degrees. (And it only causes an overshoot if there is no heating demand, because the hot water overrun is disabled if there is a simultaneous heating demand) I have mine set to 1 minute, which seems to be plenty to avoid a flow temperature overshoot, and only causes about 1 degree overshoot in the hot water temperature if there is no heating demand.
    Last edited by DBMandrake; 18th June 2017 at 04:53 PM.

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