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Thread: Evohome - fine tuning controls

  1. #21
    Automated Home Legend top brake's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by paulockenden View Post
    Has the manual changed then? Because when mine was installed last year it said that for an S-plan system the correct configuration was a relay for each two port valve, and none on the boiler.

    P.
    the fig 4 application is in the evohome colour instructions Paul

    Your system is a simple boiler so the installation as a zoned S-Plan is fine, I think we discussed this when we met
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  2. #22
    Automated Home Legend paulockenden's Avatar
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    I do still get quite a lot of Evohome not switching on the boiler for long enough for it to fire up, when the system is doing the TPI/proportional stuff.

    Actually, if it WAS switching the boiler directly it would probably be OK, but of course it's switching the two port valves, and these take a few seconds to open and then fire the boiler. I suspect someone forgot about that delay when they devised the logic for a boiler-relay-less setup.

    P.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by paulockenden View Post
    I do still get quite a lot of Evohome not switching on the boiler for long enough for it to fire up, when the system is doing the TPI/proportional stuff.

    Actually, if it WAS switching the boiler directly it would probably be OK, but of course it's switching the two port valves, and these take a few seconds to open and then fire the boiler. I suspect someone forgot about that delay when they devised the logic for a boiler-relay-less setup.

    P.
    This is a valid point. My Honeywell V4043H's motorised zone valves take 10 seconds to open and signal the boiler. The boiler takes around 50 seconds to do it's ignition sequence before ignition. If the zone valve micro switches are controlling the boiler then I have the same critisism. In the non-boiler relay hook up, in my view the EVO should hold the valve(s) open for a minimum of 2 to 6 minutes (user adjustable). Not a big deal EVO softwarewise, but as I understand EVO is not updateable. Proprietary delayed-close timing relays costs around 20 each for a DIY solution.

    However with a "Boiler Relay" hookup and bearing in mind I presently have a binding error, I reserve my judgement until after I rewire and perform rebindings in the next couple of weeks.

    Close time of the V4043H is 1.5 secs by the way
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  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Midori View Post
    but as I understand EVO is not updateable.
    IIRC I was advised that the latest model Evohome controller (with built in wi-fi) could be updated over the Internet.

  5. #25
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    Default Feedback and Closure

    As original poster, this is the outcome which is 100% positive!

    I followed advice, unbound everything, reset controller and de-powered everything. I purchased an additional relay to act as "boiler relay" and reconfigured the system from scratch. I also ensured all batteries in remote sensors, Evo controller, and HWS tranceiver were in good condition.

    Two weeks later I can report eveything has worked perfectly with good & proportionate cycling of zone valves, proper HWS control, and no boiler short cycling whatsoever.
    During the two weeks however I did experience some strange fault logs, but do believe I have fixed the cause. For information, below are the faults and what I did as a result.

    untitled-00412-2-880.jpg
    The red triangle could only be removed by removing batteries from Evo controller (which deletes the Fault Log completely).

    untitled-00414-2-880.jpg
    The Fault information was annoyingly displayed every zone access and did not reflect details in Fault Log. Both heating zones (2) were separately logged with the same fault, but only one red triangle and only one annoying fullscreen page. The annoying screen is removed with above proceedure for red triangle.

    untitled-00413-2-880.jpg
    The Fault Log shows "Mains Low" although there was no power cut or brownout. The log entries occured when the Evocontroller was removed and replaced on the wall PSU. Wall PSU is only 4.16 volt, however I am advised this should not be an issue. The batteries were fully charged at the time so perhaps a capacitor blip somewhere.
    The Fault Log shows "Comms Faults" on both heating zones (2), but only one was red flagged.

    As I said before during the whole two week test period there were no faults in the operation of the controls whatsoever. Zone Heating valve control and cycling was perfect and the 3 cycles per hour was strictly maintained with valve open/close timings relevant to respective deviations from remote sensor set points. HWS temperature control was also perfect.
    Rather than live with red triangles and annoying full screen alerts I decided to experiment. My first test using 4.7 volt table top PSU and disconnect wifi was concluded as irrelevant. Next test was to remove and replace Evo controller batteries. I discovered that heating zone remote controller temperatures were both displayed after a few minutes, but HWS temperature would never re-display - i.e continuous hour glass. HWS temperature would only display by either removing HWS TransCeiver relay batteries, or pressing the TranCeiver relay button. Finally after deleting (by disabling) HWS configuration, un-binding , de-powering and re adding HWS configuration that the continuous hour glass issue was cleared.

    Many thanks to Top Brake, Richard at www.theevohomeshop.co.uk and others that contributed and gave me confidence to continue.
    Last edited by Midori; 21st November 2015 at 12:22 PM.
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  6. #26
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    Well Well! It can say that remote update over internet by Honeywell appears to be correct and working.... The third screen in my post dtd 21st Nov now has a "CLEAR" icon enabling old fault logs to be cleared without having to remove batteries. I wonder if there are any other changes?
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  7. #27
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    Well well also! I didn't realise Honeywell's latest update included the "Clear" icon - Brilliant.

    Midori or anyone - is the fault shown as "Low Battery, 00" (or similar text) when the controller is taken out of the charger station and gives a warning?

    Ian K.

  8. #28
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    @killa47,

    For me this was due to dirty or poor contact between batteries and Evo contact springs or between Evo hook and dock station. After cleaning all battery spring terminals (and re inserting batteries), also ensure the slider contacts between Evo and Dock are clean.

    Give a few hours to recharge cells. If the fault returns then check each of the cell voltages with an accurate meter, check the voltage also on the dock contactcs too, and re publish your situation.
    Last edited by Midori; 24th February 2016 at 11:11 AM.
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  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by paulockenden View Post
    When the system is in the TPI band Evohome will short-cycle my boiler such that it doesn't actually come on. It's a terrible waste of energy. It also means that when heat really is needed the boiler takes even longer to fire up - maybe because the combustion chamber gets flooded with unburned gas?

    In fact, I've been thinking about making a small box of tricks that holds the two port valve open for an additional 45 seconds of so after the BDR91 goes off. P.
    Can I ask if you ever made your box of tricks to hold open a two port zone valve?

    I ask because, when my installer fitted Evohome end 2015, he said he would latch open the two CH valves. I never checked at the time but having checked recently, the two valve orange switch wires, wired in parallel, definitely fire the boiler. No problem with this.

    However, ever since having the Evohome system, the boiler has a habit of short cycling and then going into a "gradient limitation" routine, delaying the next re-firing of the boiler.

    When the BDR91 switches off, the valves close but the pump overrun powered from the boiler means the water has nowhere to go. The ABV opens to allow the CH water to circulate but the ABV loop is very short and straight back to the boiler, so the temperature initially rises and then doesn't fall sufficiently to prevent the boiler going into a "gradient limitation" routine which puts the boiler into a timing hold until the temp falls to an acceptable level.

    Over the past 12 months, I have chased WB for solutions without success, modified the boiler settings to try overcome the gradient limitation etc and asked on this forum for suggestions.

    I was thinking of a way to keep one of the two CH zone valves open during the pump overrun period, currently 8 minutes as modified by me. When I manually latch a valve back open immediately after the BDR91 turns off and the valves close, I can see the flow temp immediately falls quite rapidly and the next boiler demand fires without issue.

    So I think a box of tricks (NOTO relays etc) to keep a valve open might be one solution. I have seen elsewhere I would need one to put power back temporarily to a valve and one to delay closing the boiler (I think).

    Or else, I need to re-wire/configure how the BDR91/zone valves/boiler operate.

    Any comments would be much appreciated.

  10. #30
    Automated Home Legend paulockenden's Avatar
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    No, I never did this.

    I think the alternative wiring scheme that (I think) dbmandrake proposed would be a better solution.

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