If you're not confident I would encourage you to get an installer in to replace the radiator. Will also need balancing.Originally Posted by garmcqui
I work for Resideo, posts are personal and my own views.
Should be fine, I've hung plenty of radiators before, just never worked with this plastic microbore pipe. I did replace rads in both bathrooms with towel rails earlier this year, no problems.
Regarding balancing - is it as important now that Evohome is controlling all the radiators independently? There is never a time when over half the radiators in the house are on at once, therefore one would think the system would cope with all the lockshields fully open?
Balancing is critical in all heating systems and evohome system are no exception.
Amen brother
And Happy Birthday
I work for Resideo, posts are personal and my own views.
Thanks TB!
Obviously with this being your trade, I accept what you say as correct. However, I'm a sucker for knowing "why"! (sorry!)
My question is this... Evohome completely changes the dynamics of a central heating system from one which all the radiators are often heated together (and which has a relatively predictable pattern etc), to one where individual rooms are heated at different times and rarely all at once. Obviously balancing is vital if there are soom radiators which are heating up much more quickly than others, but with Evohome there are only usually one or two radiators calling for heat at the same time, so surely a poorly balanced system will still perform well?
Not wanting to be awkward, please do explain why it's still critical.Cheers
1) It's winter, so expect room warm up temperatures to approach 2 hours if you let night room temp drop to 16.5C.
2) It depends where you put the sensor as to what actual room comfort temperature actually is.
3) Eliminate the Evohome control by putting the radiator full on and seeing how long it takes to get comfort in your room. (eliminate cycling for this test).
4) Radiators are designed to give rated output when mean water temperature is 70C. Mean water tem is half way between inlet and out let temperatures.
5) If your boiler is set at "almost cannot touch" temperature then it is not anywhere near 80 C at the radiator.
6) Even if set at 80C the water entering radiator may be considerably lower. So measure both rad in and out temps and calculate the mean temperature.
+
7) Radiators give up their heat 30% by radiation + 70% by convection. Curtains, Furniture and Laundry can grossly decrease efficiency.
8) You only get what you pay for when water velocity maintains 60C return water temp at the radiator, and if radiator has no air in it.
9) 80 C boiler temperature is way too high for most UK locations / seasons, and also to be avoided if HWS is not independently controlled, or if kids are around.
10) regardless of what the controller says, health, activity and clothing affect comfort and fuel bills!
Last edited by Midori; 14th March 2016 at 10:12 AM.
Assoc IHVE; Matthew Hall Satchwell MW Kellogg CompAir; posts are personal and my own view
From you questioning, what do you think 'radiator balancing' means? Why do you think evohome makes this less important for a heating system?Obviously with this being your trade, I accept what you say as correct. However, I'm a sucker for knowing "why"! (sorry!)
My question is this... Evohome completely changes the dynamics of a central heating system from one which all the radiators are often heated together (and which has a relatively predictable pattern etc), to one where individual rooms are heated at different times and rarely all at once. Obviously balancing is vital if there are soom radiators which are heating up much more quickly than others, but with Evohome there are only usually one or two radiators calling for heat at the same time, so surely a poorly balanced system will still perform well?
Not wanting to be awkward, please do explain why it's still critical.
All central heating boilers require a temperature drop from the flow to the return pipe. The 'designed' temperature drop for a condensing boiler heating system for example is normally 20 deg C (75 deg C flow and 55 deg C return). If radiator valves are just left fully open, the central heating water going in the flow pipe of the radiator might 'exit' the return pipe too quickly, hence we 'temperature balance' the heating system at each radiator by restricting the 'lockshield' valve to obtain the correct temperature differential. This is started at the nearest radiator and finished at the 'index' radiator (furthest radiator).
A quick Google search will give you some basic 'how to' guides, but radiator balancing is very difficult when radiators are not designed with the correct temperature differential in mind - normally the case when a condensing boiler (requiring a 20 deg C drop) is fitted to an existing radiator system that was designed for a standard efficiency boiler (requiring a 11 deg C drop).
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote