Evohome is Noisy - please help me

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  • Cchris
    Automated Home Sr Member
    • Nov 2015
    • 95

    Bit of a pain, but depending on the size and position of the radiators, perhaps swapping the valve and HR92 to the opposite end would help? It may just be that extra bit of distance that would make all the difference.

    Comment

    • DBMandrake
      Automated Home Legend
      • Sep 2014
      • 2361

      Originally posted by paulockenden View Post
      If you have a separate room stat I wonder whether a length of pipe lagging slid over the HR92 would work? You could arrange it to that it overlapped the top and bottom, and maybe even fill in the openings at each end.

      My only concern would be you might cook the batteries.
      As opposed to having it exposed to the direct radiant heat of the side of a radiator which is up to 80 degrees and just a couple of inches away ?

      To have such a long battery life the heat output of the HR92 must be infinitesimal. It will generate a small amount of heat when the motor turns but that will be inconsequential, and it will generate nothing to speak of when it is idle.

      Wrapping it up in insulation is going to keep it at a more steady moderate temperature, so I really can't see it being hurt by insulation. Ugly - but probably effective! As long as you have a wall stat to measure and optionally see and adjust the temperature you really don't need to see or get at the HR92 except for battery changes...

      Has anyone tried stuffing a thick Christmas or heat keepers sock over one ? Might be a reasonable workaround for a bedroom...
      Last edited by DBMandrake; 13 December 2016, 01:09 PM.

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      • Arrghh!
        Automated Home Sr Member
        • Dec 2015
        • 73

        Originally posted by Cchris View Post
        Bit of a pain, but depending on the size and position of the radiators, perhaps swapping the valve and HR92 to the opposite end would help? It may just be that extra bit of distance that would make all the difference.
        With my layout, that would move it closer to me

        Covering the HR92 in some way is the simplest solution as long as you can sort the temperature sensing, but making it look neat is going to be difficult.

        When dot matrix printers were first put in offices, we had to put them in acoustic hoods. I'm thinking of something similar which would still allow the display to be seen and wouldn't look too untidy.

        I think I'm going to put an external sensor in my bedroom anyway, as the window above the radiator is open at night and is making it difficult to get the balance right in there. So if I do that, I'll play around with HR92 covers and see what I can come up with.

        I'm assuming all I need to do is buy a DT92E and change the sensor type in the control panel for that zone?

        Comment

        • paulockenden
          Automated Home Legend
          • Apr 2015
          • 1719

          Originally posted by DBMandrake View Post
          To have such a long battery life the heat output of the HR92 must be infinitesimal.
          I was thinking of the heat rising from the valve below into what effectively becomes an insulated oven.

          P.

          p.s. if your rads are 80 degrees you're doing something wrong. Or working in Fahrenheit!

          Comment

          • DBMandrake
            Automated Home Legend
            • Sep 2014
            • 2361

            If you sleep with the window ajar as we usually do then a remote DT92 is definitely recommended. As you note cold air coming down from the window across the HR92 will affect the reading and cause the radiator to come on when it shouldn't, and it is quite difficult to find a set point that is comfortable on any given night, or works well as the seasons change. We added a DTS92 to the bedroom for this reason - on the wall above the head of the bed and it works brilliantly.

            if you have the Wi-Fi controller all you need to do is go into the zone configuration for the zone and select a new sensor, bind the DTS92 and you are done. If you have the older controller you'll have to go through the binding process for the zone again, binding the DTS92 first and the HR92 second.
            Last edited by DBMandrake; 13 December 2016, 01:22 PM.

            Comment

            • Arrghh!
              Automated Home Sr Member
              • Dec 2015
              • 73

              Originally posted by DBMandrake View Post
              If you sleep with the window ajar as we usually do then a remote DT92 is definitely recommended. As you note cold air coming down from the window across the HR92 will affect the reading and cause the radiator to come on when it shouldn't, and it is quite difficult to find a set point that is comfortable on any given night, or works well as the seasons change. We added a DTS92 to the bedroom for this reason - on the wall above the head of the bed and it works brilliantly.

              if you have the Wi-Fi controller all you need to do is go into the zone configuration for the zone and select a new sensor, bind the DTS92 and you are done. If you have the older controller you'll have to go through the binding process for the zone again, binding the DTD92 first and the HR92 second.
              Ok that seems like the best option for us then and it will allow me to cover the HR92 completely if I want to. Is it possible to buy the DTS92 without the relay box? Everywhere I look they seem to be sold as a pair.

              Comment

              • DBMandrake
                Automated Home Legend
                • Sep 2014
                • 2361

                Originally posted by paulockenden View Post
                I was thinking of the heat rising from the valve below into what effectively becomes an insulated oven.
                Ah yes, I hadn't thought about that. I wonder how much of an issue it would be in practice though. I might stuff a thick sock over one that uses the HR92 as the sensor and see what the temperature reading rises to to get an idea of how hot the HR92 would get.
                p.s. if your rads are 80 degrees you're doing something wrong. Or working in Fahrenheit!
                80 was an exaggeration but we do have to use a flow temp of 75 in sub zero conditions due to some old fashioned under-specced (non convector) radiators.... it's either that or be cold... (I should add that it is not a condensing boiler so there is no condensing penalty for a high flow temperature)
                Last edited by DBMandrake; 13 December 2016, 01:23 PM.

                Comment

                • DBMandrake
                  Automated Home Legend
                  • Sep 2014
                  • 2361

                  Originally posted by Arrghh! View Post
                  Ok that seems like the best option for us then and it will allow me to cover the HR92 completely if I want to. Is it possible to buy the DTS92 without the relay box? Everywhere I look they seem to be sold as a pair.
                  See Paul's note about heat from the valve when covering the HR92 - something I hadn't thought of.

                  Yes you can buy the DTS92 by itself - I got mine from theevohomeshop - Richard has them both with a relay and on their own.

                  Last edited by DBMandrake; 13 December 2016, 01:21 PM.

                  Comment

                  • HenGus
                    Automated Home Legend
                    • May 2014
                    • 1001

                    Originally posted by Arrghh! View Post
                    With my layout, that would move it closer to me

                    Covering the HR92 in some way is the simplest solution as long as you can sort the temperature sensing, but making it look neat is going to be difficult.

                    When dot matrix printers were first put in offices, we had to put them in acoustic hoods. I'm thinking of something similar which would still allow the display to be seen and wouldn't look too untidy.

                    I think I'm going to put an external sensor in my bedroom anyway, as the window above the radiator is open at night and is making it difficult to get the balance right in there. So if I do that, I'll play around with HR92 covers and see what I can come up with.

                    I'm assuming all I need to do is buy a DT92E and change the sensor type in the control panel for that zone?
                    I think by now my OH would be telling me 'to think again'. There comes a point where it is cheaper just to leave the boiler on for 24 hours with conventional TRVs. Presumably, covering the HR92s could have some effect on wifi connectivity? I already get occasional sensor loss of comms faults from 2 of my more distant HR92s - situated about 25ft away from the controller in a modern house with partition walls.

                    Comment

                    • paulockenden
                      Automated Home Legend
                      • Apr 2015
                      • 1719

                      It would be trivial to mount the batteries externally, with a couple of flying leads, if heat build-up really was a problem.

                      Comment

                      • Sentry1
                        Automated Home Jr Member
                        • Oct 2016
                        • 43

                        Just a quick note from me, the OP :-)

                        I have a few points to make. Most of these I have made in my various posts in this thread but since this has become a mammoth discussion, I thought I would state them here again:

                        - I'm really pleased that a number of like minded people have looked at this issue and, in good spirit, helped me try to find a way to quieten down the HR92s. It would appear that a few, like me, are keen on the sentiment of "If I can do something about it, I will...it may even be fun trying".
                        - The primary issue I have with the noise from the HR92s is that it wakes up my kids and continues to do so (I've had to replace the HR92s in the kids rooms with standard TRVs for the moment as both of them simply refuse to get used to the noise from the Evohome TRVs). I bought this system primarily with them in mind. All suggestions on the psychology of repetitive noise are interesting but rather academic.
                        - I have a past life of being a sound engineer. I know about the logarithmic scale of decibels. Its fun to play around with sound meters but ultimately meaningless. Sharing increases in decibel readings may actually further confuse those who may think the scale is linear.
                        - I also know about resonance in materials. The effect of the radiators and pipes are minimal. I've used towels and other dampening methods. The best proof for me was simply to locate the sound source...it is the unit itself that is making the noise.
                        - I realise that its tough to quieten the Evohome TRVs down from a manufacturing standpoint. I'm not saying its easy - just important :-)
                        - I know the HR92s are whisper quiet when not attached to the valves
                        - I'd like to avoid lagging the TRVs to reduce the noise if I can. Not least because I can't afford to buy separate sensors for the rooms
                        - I'm pleased for all of you who say that any noise from the Evohome system doesn't bother you. That's great. Please don't be annoyed that even after hearing your story, I don't change my opinion about my situation.
                        - I will continue to try to quieten the TRVs down for the present time. It would be very irritating to have to return the units as everything else about the system is fine.
                        - The best hope for me is still, in my humble opinion, the valves. The longer the 'throw' the better. The less resistance the better. Having kids means minimal time for the research on this - but I'll keep you posted here.
                        - I still want to investigate the difference between the ST2s and the ST3s
                        - Yes, Richard, I bought these from your 'theevohomeshop'

                        I would hugely appreciate it if Honeywell themselves would partake and clear up a few of the unknowns. Let's see if they do. I'll let you know if they contact me directly.

                        I'll also let you know how things progress. Thanks again to everyone who's been coming up with some great ideas and doing some great tests.

                        Comment

                        • The EVOHOME Shop
                          Site Sponsor
                          • Dec 2014
                          • 483

                          Originally posted by Sentry1 View Post
                          Yes, Richard, I bought these from your 'theevohomeshop'
                          Good stuff, then send me one of the noisy ones back with your order number and let me take a look at it for you. I have listened to 1000's of HR92's and I can tell you if it is normal or faulty.

                          Comment

                          • Arrghh!
                            Automated Home Sr Member
                            • Dec 2015
                            • 73

                            Just one observation about the interaction between the valve and the HR92:

                            If the valve is fully closed or fully open and the HR92 starts to open or close it, there is more resistance for the first few revolutions of the motor. That's unavoidable. The motor is loaded more during that part of the cycle, so it is operating at a lower speed until the initial resistance is overcome and them the motor speeds up as the valve opens more and more.

                            The level of noise generated is proportional to the speed of the motor. The faster the motor operates, the greater the noise.

                            If there was a way in firmware or hardware to force the motor to operate at a lower speed all the time, that in itself would reduce the overall noise level. I doubt that's going to be something Honeywell is going to look at doing, but I thought I'd put it out there.

                            In my case, I have one HR92 in the bedroom I want to make quiet and I'll use an external thermostat and cover to sort that one out. I've also got two in my living room and I already use the controller as the thermostat there, so if I am successful with the cover in the bedroom I may repeat that solution there. I suspect, like Sentry1 and myself, there will be a number of Evohome users who have just one or two zones where reducing the noise to a minimum will be important, so i feel an easy retro-fit solution such as a cover+external sensor will be the way to go, even if certain valves prove to be better than others. In new installations, obviously a 'quieter' valve could be specified and it will be helpful for prospective users and installers to understand that.

                            I'm still going to test my HR92 on one of my mum's radiators tomorrow, as it's possible the valves she has fitted could make a difference. I'll report back.
                            Last edited by Arrghh!; 14 December 2016, 11:41 AM.

                            Comment

                            • Sentry1
                              Automated Home Jr Member
                              • Oct 2016
                              • 43

                              Originally posted by The EVOHOME Shop View Post
                              Good stuff, then send me one of the noisy ones back with your order number and let me take a look at it for you. I have listened to 1000's of HR92's and I can tell you if it is normal or faulty.
                              Hi Richard, thanks very much for that offer. I don't believe that it would be worthwhile in this case as I don't think the HR92s are "faulty" from a manufacturing standpoint. It is not one but all 10 Evohome TRVs that are proving noisy. I am still hopeful that a solution can be found for this - for instance it may be that the valve pins that were installed a couple of years back are unusually stiff (although I can push them down quite easily with my thumb when exposed).

                              Have a read through this thread to see the challenge. This will help you see what I'm trying to solve and, probably more importantly, what I'm not trying to do. For instance, I don't need "silence" just a level of noise which doesn't wake the kids. As I've stated before, I know there's a motor in there, I know that motors make a bit of noise but I do not believe that the level we are experiencing would be acceptable in most people's homes. I don't want to find a solution which involves the purchase of more Honeywell kit (extra room sensors etc) either. My post on 13th December at around 10pm covers most of it I reckon.

                              One question - do you know anything about the various "STx" versions of the Hr92? In what way do they differ? If at all.

                              Comment

                              • Arrghh!
                                Automated Home Sr Member
                                • Dec 2015
                                • 73

                                Well, today I tested 4 of my HR92s (ST2) on one of my mum's radiators and compared it with two of her HR92s (ST3) and much to my surprise, both ST3s were indeed quieter than any of my ST2s.

                                It's hardly an exhaustive test with many samples, but maybe there is something in it, or maybe it's just coincidence. Perhaps Richard can cast some light on it?

                                What I was able to say for certain is that her valves (with plastic adapters) don't make the actuators any quieter as I thought they might and I feel the difference between the 3 types of valves I've now used is quite small.

                                I'll await Richard's response with interest.

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