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Thread: Completely new heating install, best way to configure for EvoHome?

  1. #61
    Automated Home Legend paulockenden's Avatar
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    I know that they do several versions of the tempo disc - one with a button, and a cheap one without humidity. But they are all BLE, and all quote the battery life based on hourly polling.

    There's only about 200mAh in a CR2032.

  2. #62
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    So now that I am only have one 2 port motorised valve for HW, should I install 3 x gate valves (where the original CH zone valves would have gone) in order to help radiator balancing? Is radiator balancing even required with EvoHome?

  3. #63

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    Quote Originally Posted by paulockenden View Post
    I know that they do several versions of the tempo disc - one with a button, and a cheap one without humidity. But they are all BLE, and all quote the battery life based on hourly polling.

    There's only about 200mAh in a CR2032.
    Ok, the cheaper one is listed as 5 second sample period , with a 1 year battery life.

    I'll let you know once I've done some tests

  4. #64
    Automated Home Legend paulockenden's Avatar
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    Others have successfully polled these devices for data without using the gateway or app. So that bit's easy. The tricky part is then getting the data into Evohome.

  5. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by paulockenden View Post
    Others have successfully polled these devices for data without using the gateway or app. So that bit's easy. The tricky part is then getting the data into Evohome.
    With my radio stuff it's pretty easy to write something that binds as a temperature sensor, so it could receive and forward the temperature from this. I don't know if it would work with an HGI80 or not because I don't know if it gives you full control of the address fields in the radio protocol.

  6. #66
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    Wasn't there some guy who managed to sniff the radio data off the back of the Relay itself. I know it was read only, but could be useful to people who just want to see the HGI80 style data on Domoticz. Or the Busware USB device with some modified CUL firmware running on a Raspberry Pi.

  7. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by dty View Post
    With my radio stuff it's pretty easy to write something that binds as a temperature sensor, so it could receive and forward the temperature from this. I don't know if it would work with an HGI80 or not because I don't know if it gives you full control of the address fields in the radio protocol.
    It should be doable with the HGI80 because the old non-Wifi controller was able to display external temperature from a non Honeywell device's data routed via Domoticz back to the controller via the HGi80.

  8. #68
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    I use the Busware SCC device with my own firmware.

  9. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by DBMandrake View Post
    You're right - the controller has the touch screen user interface and communicates to all other devices including BDR91 wirelessly - I think HenGus just mis-spoke. All it needs is a permanent supply of power.

    Depending on your system you only need three or four wires to a BDR91 so if necessary you could bring a cable up from the cellar into the floor above and mount the BDR91's there - although you may not find that necessary depending on the results of a signal test.

    BTW the 30cm recommendation is to keep multiple BDR91's at least 30cm from each other, and also 30cm from large metal objects like a boiler.
    Well, starting installation now but I wondered if I want to site the hot water BDR91 near the cellar stairs (closer to the main house as opposed to 30cm from the boiler), how does one extend the location of the hot water BDR91 as it is connected to the hot water probe which goes into the cylinder?

  10. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnDoe View Post
    Well, starting installation now but I wondered if I want to site the hot water BDR91 near the cellar stairs (closer to the main house as opposed to 30cm from the boiler), how does one extend the location of the hot water BDR91 as it is connected to the hot water probe which goes into the cylinder?
    The hot water probe is not connected to the hot water BDR91.

    There is a separate transmitter unit (CS92A) which connects to the temperature probe on the cylinder and sends the reading back to the main controller wirelessly. The controller then sends a wireless signal to the hot water BDR91 (and boiler relay if you use one) based on the schedule and whether the temperature is below the set hot water temperature or not.

    So there is no problem extending the location of the BDR91 further from the cylinder using normal 240v mains flex - you'll need 3, 4 or 5 wires in the flex depending on what relay contacts you need to use and whether you need switched 240v or volt free contacts. For a typical case of driving a 240v zone valve you'll only need 3 wires - or 4 wires if you want to wire for hot water priority.

    Likewise the cable between the temperature probe and CS92A can be extended if needed - it is very low voltage DC so could be extended using normal two wire figure 8 cable such as light duty speaker cable. I've found the CS92A a bit finicky about its placement for getting a reliable wireless signal, however as it is battery powered and only needs a low voltage two wire cable to extend further away from the cylinder sensor it is easy to move. I would avoid running any cable extension for the CS92A in parallel with 240v mains wiring though to avoid interference.
    Last edited by DBMandrake; 5th February 2017 at 05:37 PM.

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