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Thread: Help with Evohome / Opentherm / Intergas

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  1. #1
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    Default Help with Evohome / Opentherm / Intergas

    Hello,

    I wonder if anyone can help, I'm a relative newbie with Evohome and I suspect I've got some of the finer details of my setup slightly wrong. Helpfully the plumber installed the boiler, wired up the opentherm bridge then left :-(

    In essence, I have an intergas system boiler, megaflo tank, opentherm bridge and evohome. My megaflo is controlled by a standalone timer and NOT by the evohome.

    My house is split into 10 evohome zones. With the exception of my lounge, master bedroom and downstairs/upstairs corridor each zone has a single radiator with a HR92UK on them.

    The master bedroom has two radiators and hence two HR92UKs - how do I know which one is acting as the thermostat? The lounge also has two radiators, two HR92UK and a T87RF2033 wall thermostat - how can I confirm that the T87RF2033 is configured correctly? The downstairs/upstairs corridor has two radiators and a further two HR92UKs - these are controlled by the Evohome thermostat.

    Unfortunately I don't have mains gas, but instead I'm connected to a communal LPG gas tank - which I know is fairly expensive.

    My problem is that my monthly LPG gas bills are around £100 which to me seems very high since this last month we've had our log burner running almost continuously to try to drive the costs down.

    I know this is a very vague question, but can anyone recommend some suggestions on how I can understand how/why my LPG bills are so high, and also if there are any specific settings on the evohome/intergas boiler that I should be tweaking.

    My other question, my HR92UKs have all been running for around 6 months, in that time, I've had to change the batteries in one HR92UK twice! Is this normal ? None of the other batteries have failed yet ?

    Of course if there are any other useful details that you need then I would be happy to dig them out.

    If its useful, I now have a couple of weeks of Domoticz graphs which I can share.

    Sincere thanks in advance,

    Paul

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by paulmiles01 View Post
    My megaflo is controlled by a standalone timer and NOT by the evohome.
    I've not read the rest of your post (yet), but I thought that giving Evohome control over the domestic hot water is a requirement of using the OpenTherm bridge?

  3. #3
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    The reason Evohome doesn't control the hot water was that I didn't think I could fit a sensor to the megaflo without hacking away part of the insulation on the tank.

    The plumber was happy enough to fit the additional timer for the hot water - although to be fair it was the blind leading the blind on that.

    Certainly OpenTherm bridge is working in the sense that radiators get hot as per the evohome schedule - no idea if its modulating as it should be though.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dty View Post
    I've not read the rest of your post (yet), but I thought that giving Evohome control over the domestic hot water is a requirement of using the OpenTherm bridge?
    Maybe my google skills are lacking but I can't find anything to collaborate - can anyone else confirm if this is urban myth or fact ?

    If its fact, any ideas how I can monitor the temperature of my megaflo without hacking the external insulation about ?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by paulmiles01 View Post
    Maybe my google skills are lacking but I can't find anything to collaborate - can anyone else confirm if this is urban myth or fact ?
    Look at it from the other direction. If your boiler is taking instructions from the OT bridge, how does the DHW system call for heat? In fact, how does that work in your current setup?

    Quote Originally Posted by paulmiles01 View Post
    If its fact, any ideas how I can monitor the temperature of my megaflo without hacking the external insulation about ?
    Can you use the probe that goes in where the immersion heater would go?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by dty View Post
    Look at it from the other direction. If your boiler is taking instructions from the OT bridge, how does the DHW system call for heat? In fact, how does that work in your current setup?



    Can you use the probe that goes in where the immersion heater would go?
    I have an OSO unvented cylinder with no ports. The HW sensor has been pushed up under the insulation with access via the electrical panel, and it is wired in series with the existing tank thermostats. It's worked well for nearly 3 years.

  7. #7
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    [QUOTE=dty;30812]Look at it from the other direction. If your boiler is taking instructions from the OT bridge, how does the DHW system call for heat? In fact, how does that work in your current setup?



    Currently I have a separate Honeywell single zone timer wired into the boiler that manages my hot water.

    I also have a solar PV iBoost topping up the megaflo on the rare occasion that the sun comes out.

  8. #8
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    Interesting, I was under the impression that a boiler would either take its instructions from OT or from conventional wiring, and not both.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by paulmiles01 View Post
    The master bedroom has two radiators and hence two HR92UKs - how do I know which one is acting as the thermostat?
    That depends on the order in which you bound them during initial setup. The first one bound to the zone becomes the temperature sensor for both. (Since if you read the prompts carefully it asks you to bind the sensor first, and then "additional actuators")

    After the fact, if you don't remember which order you bound them in, there is no way to tell through the UI. So you either need to perform a test or re-bind the sensor. On the Wi-Fi model you can re-specify the temperature sensor by going into system configuration, zone configuration, choose the zone, Temperature Sensor, Remote sensor, then bind the HR92 you want to be the temperature sensor.
    The lounge also has two radiators, two HR92UK and a T87RF2033 wall thermostat - how can I confirm that the T87RF2033 is configured correctly?
    Since the UI doesn't tell you, the best way to confirm you have the correct device bound as the zone thermostat is to place it somewhere cold (like the fridge) or hot (like on top of a hot radiator) for 5-10 minutes and confirm that the reading on the controller responds accordingly. Any other HR92's in the same zone configured to show room temperature should also reflect this reduced or increased reading, although they may lag behind the value reported on the controller by a few minutes, so give them at least 10 minutes to respond.

    My other question, my HR92UKs have all been running for around 6 months, in that time, I've had to change the batteries in one HR92UK twice! Is this normal ? None of the other batteries have failed yet ?
    Doesn't sound normal - so far all mine have lasted about 14-18 months on standard Alkaline's and I still have some that have not been changed yet.

    There's a possibility that particular HR92 has a battery contact problem - see the following thread, especially if brand new batteries only show 2 bars instead of 3:

    http://www.automatedhome.co.uk/vbull...ontact-problem

    It can cause the HR92 to think the batteries are low when they still have plenty of life left. (And can in fact cause it to cut out altogether sometimes)
    Last edited by DBMandrake; 30th January 2017 at 06:49 PM.

  10. #10
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    They are reports that Intergas boilers have an issue with an Opentherm connection to Evohome. This was confirmed in an e-mail that I received from Intergas Technical Support. Apparently, the issue is that the PCB cannot cope with Evohome's multi-zoning demands due to data flow. The problem is still under investigation by Intergas in The Netherlands and may require a replacement PCB. I don't know if this is relevant to your situation.

    I have 21 HR92s installed and the first HR92 required replacement batteries after about 22 months. Most have lasted over 2 years.

    This is from an e-mail conversation that I had with an Intergas specialist Installer:

    The problem is that the boiler or Evohome (no one really knows which at the moment) doesn't cope with modulating the setpoint with multiple zones.

    My theory is that there is too much data and the boiler PCB can't interact quickly enough with the OpenTherm bridge so it drops its knickers and runs at whatever the maximum setting is.
    Last edited by HenGus; 30th January 2017 at 09:40 PM.

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