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Thread: evohome Water temperature sensor battery life

  1. #11
    Automated Home Legend
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shaun Reinson View Post
    I had a TRV with batteries that failed after about a year - which I'm guessing is ok - and when I replaced they appeared to go flat within a week. Turns out that the metal connector that you unhook to replace had reacted with the batteries and had a coating of stuff on it preventing a good electrical connection. Took it off, stuck in a glass of vinegar overnight to clean and its all fine now. Think it was probably the original batteries that leaked, but worth checking this as well...
    The battery contacts in the HR92 are definitely a weak point. Also check the tension of the battery contacts at the bottom - when I replace the batteries in mine I use a small screwdriver to carefully put a bit more tension on the contacts at the bottom - as they seem to lose it over time with the weight of the batteries resting on the spring contacts.

    I also find I sometimes have to bend the shorting bar at the top slightly as it is also so soft that it distorts over time. I bend it slightly down at the ends and up in the middle so that when it is clicked into place it pushes a bit harder on the battery terminals. Really not a good design - the contacts are all far, far too soft and are not proper spring steel that you would find in conventional coil spring battery contacts. It's very mild stainless steel.

  2. #12
    Automated Home Lurker
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    Default Rewired to take BDR out of the airing cupboard.

    Well took around three hours to do but all the BDR are out of the airing cupboard and fitted in hall cupboard which is next to the controller. I left the water temperature sensor in there hopefully it was interference from the BDR that was causing the issue as Honeywell suggested. Luckily I have a bungalow so relatively easy to rewire.

    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_1f25.jpg

    The BDR are now a minimum of 40cm apart , no doubt if this hasn't cured it Honeywell will start blaming the Burglar alarm

    Neat trick I spotted on youtube was to buy either a blank faceplate and drill a hole for the wires or one with a cutout, I used crabtree with a cutout . You then can neatly mount the BDR to a surface mount pattress box. If you don't do that the BDR looks a bit naff.

    https://youtu.be/F1E1K8cViwI
    Last edited by davewf; 3rd March 2018 at 06:02 PM.

  3. #13
    Automated Home Ninja Dan_Robinson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by davewf View Post

    The BDR are now a minimum of 40cm apart
    What about the copper pipe and that chrome bar in front of them?
    Kind Regards - Dan Robinson (Jennings Heating Ltd)

  4. #14
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    Yep agree chrome bar and copper pipe will be yet another excuse for poor wireless performance. Perhaps I should have a Evohome friendly house built :-)

    I am in my spare time the CTO of a startup company and we fit sensors into double glazing, these are seriously low power units transmitting in the 800Mhz band. Guess what? we have yet to find a house where our signals don't get through and I suspect we don't transmit any less data in our bursts as Honeywell do. OK we are at a lower frequency so that helps but we are at least two generations ahead of Honeywell in the RF stakes. Oh and yes we do have a repeater available just in case but so far its not been needed in our testing. http://glazealarm.com

    We actually had an issue in our office where our partner was coding the control app and we are testing downstairs they spent ages trying to work out what was going on until they realised it was us. Now this is a prefab steel framed and clad building with concrete floors.

  5. #15
    Automated Home Ninja Dan_Robinson's Avatar
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    Honeywell have to have this kit be backwards compatible with other parts of their range, hence the Lexi of development.


    Just being devils advocate.
    Kind Regards - Dan Robinson (Jennings Heating Ltd)

  6. #16
    Automated Home Jr Member
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    My CS92 batteries are just two weeks short of three years old, so I suppose I should replace them soon.

    Also, I am a -very- naughty boy as my CS92 and two BDRs are right next to each other (about 30mm separating them). I've never had any comms errors.

    The main controller is in a room directly beneath the airing cupboard though - so just a few metres away as the crow flies. So maybe that has something to do with it.

  7. #17
    Automated Home Sr Member
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    Just to complete the evolving picture re CS92 battery life - My batteries have lasted just less than 2 1/2 years since installation and are still going.

    I suspect the frequency of on/off set points and run times have a bearing on heat sensing circuitry & comms checks to controller.

    I only have DHW on 3 times/day for a total on time of 4 hours.

    The above may be of use for other users wondering how long batteries should or do last.
    Last edited by killa47; 28th March 2018 at 10:12 AM.

  8. #18
    Automated Home Jr Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shaun Reinson View Post
    I had a TRV with batteries that failed after about a year - which I'm guessing is ok - and when I replaced they appeared to go flat within a week. Turns out that the metal connector that you unhook to replace had reacted with the batteries and had a coating of stuff on it preventing a good electrical connection. Took it off, stuck in a glass of vinegar overnight to clean and its all fine now. Think it was probably the original batteries that leaked, but worth checking this as well...
    Duraglit is also good at cleaning terminals that have a build up of crud!

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