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Thread: Evohome Self Install

  1. #1
    Automated Home Jr Member
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    Default Evohome Self Install

    Hello Everyone,

    Previously had evohome in our old house which we loved and we have now moved to a new house. I'm having real difficult getting hold of a installer in south wales. Most of the recommended installers on the honeywell list for our area won't return our calls or haven't installed evohome in a long time and don't really want to do it

    We have a five bed house that has x2 thermostats, Combi boiler and kingspan range tribune xe

    Question being with this setup is this something i can self install or would we need a plumber
    Last edited by crh; 9th July 2018 at 10:19 AM.

  2. #2
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    You don’t need a plumber but you might want an electrician if you are not confident doing the wiring. The “plumbing” bit is no more than taking off the old TRVs and putting on the Evohome ones. No draining down. Its a 60 second job. The wiring is little more complex but not overly so. In effect the relay or relays will be the switches for the boiler as opposed to the original thermostat doing it. Two thermostats sounds like you may have 2 zones already and whether professional help is needed depends on your intention and whether the existing zones are controlled by a bypass valve. I would be inclined to start by ensuring the house is one zone and then having done that add the Evohome TRVs creating new zones - each room etc. I am sure there is somebody in this forum who can better explain what needs to be done than I can!

  3. #3
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    It's not necessary a plumber, but perhaps an electrician with heating experience.

    I've just had a new Evohome install done. The electrician i used had never installed an Evohome before.

    I have a Worcester system boiler and Worcester unvented cylinder, I bought a Evohome connected pack, hr92 trvs and the HW kit.

    I have 3 motorised valves, one for HW, one for central heating and one for ufh. I simply gave 3 bdr91 relays to the electrician + a Honeywell junction box, just told him to wire it up. No drama, think this is bread and butter stuff. After all, it is just a switch which opens the valve, the boiler then fires up and the pump starts.

    As my install was in unheated garage, I also got him to fit a honeywell frost protection kit.

    The only tricky bit he hasn't done properly is the HW kit, he fitted the cs92 sensor but not the high limiter, so I'm having that retrospectively fitted.

    You might need some Honeywell Valencia valve bodies as I understand not all of them fit hr92s (even though the hr92s do come with adapters), for that I did get a plumber to swap the valve bodies out.

    All the binding,config i did myself. That was the hardest part for me - getting the config right to work with my HW kit and ufh.

    Saying all that, I know nothing about combi boilers and your kingspan, so worth doing a bit more research

  4. #4
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    Can't really answer this with the supplied information.

    You should start with verifying that the HR92s can be fitted to your valve bodies. Are they even pin-operated? I know there are adapter rings for specific other brands like Danfoss, but personally I think you should stay away from those and stick to the screw on versions. Yet again there are two versions here: 30mm and 28mm. The 30mm are a direct fit to the HR92s. If you have 28mm bodies you can get an alternative base plate for the HR92 (part number ACH-28).

    If you got one right hand and one left hand then replacing valve bodies shouldn't be much of an issue as this is all compression fitting and screw on (be sure to use plumbers hemp here - not the white tape). Electrics is also no big magic when you are replacing a standard two wire thermostat - just attach the BDR-91 outputs to the two wires to which the original thermostat is connected. If you are using the wall mount for the Evohome controller then do note that the tiny wires running to the thermostat are not suited to carry 230V. You have two options here: either run new wires or detach the transformer from the wall mount and mount it somewhere near the boiler to use the original wiring.

  5. #5
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    Thanks for the replies, HR92's kit the current rads so that isn't a problem

    looking at the hot water kit at the moment which has the strap on sensor or the insertion sensor. anyone with experience of this for a kingspan range tribune?

  6. #6
    Automated Home Legend paulockenden's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ojock View Post
    The only tricky bit he hasn't done properly is the HW kit, he fitted the cs92 sensor but not the high limiter, so I'm having that retrospectively fitted.
    Sidetracking slightly, but is that REALLY needed? I can see the need with an immersion, but when the heat source is a loop off the boiler so it never really going to be higher than, say, 90 degrees, is there really a chance of an unvented tank becoming a bomb? (and besides, there should be a pressure and temp relief valve fitted anyway).

    I know people say that you MUST use a high temp cutout, but to me it just seems like one of those things that people say and everyone else repeats!

    Am I wrong?

    P.

  7. #7
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    Thanks Paul. I don't know if it's really needed, from what I've read, it's just another safety feature?

    It does make me wonder the way you've explained it.

    Saying that, it'll cost me less than 90 to put one in, I'm not sure for that amount I'm too concerned it's just more of a comfort blanket than something that is critical.

  8. #8
    Automated Home Legend paulockenden's Avatar
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    I'm certainly not advocating the people shouldn't do it. Simply questioning the received wisdom in this area!

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by paulockenden View Post
    Sidetracking slightly, but is that REALLY needed? I can see the need with an immersion, but when the heat source is a loop off the boiler so it never really going to be higher than, say, 90 degrees, is there really a chance of an unvented tank becoming a bomb? (and besides, there should be a pressure and temp relief valve fitted anyway).

    I know people say that you MUST use a high temp cutout, but to me it just seems like one of those things that people say and everyone else repeats!

    Am I wrong?
    Risk of scalding ?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by paulockenden View Post
    Sidetracking slightly, but is that REALLY needed? ...... is there really a chance of an unvented tank becoming a bomb?
    I don't see the secondary cut-out as a safety feature, more a backup as the CS92 is very unreliable. I regularly get overshoots from the CS92, which can take up to 30 minutes to catch up with the real measured temperature. In the meantime, my mechanical thermostat initiates closure of the valve to stop any overheating. I would not want to rely on the CS92 alone as I would get very variable hot water temperatures.

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