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Thread: Evohome Opentherm Boiler decision and set up

  1. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1animal1 View Post
    UFH - Thanks for the tips! The UFH NC/NO,i suppose if i specced a NC, it would have to be changed to NO when i upgrade to the HCC80 anyway. The UFH valve will be located at the other side of the cylinder to the boiler and other valves, where my 22mm hot/cold branches terminate after being routed around the back of the cylinder. So the UFH BDR/Pump/manifold & Valve will all be in the same area (Spur to be added) - what you are saying, is wire the BDR to the pump and actuators, and the NO valve to the original terminal block in the exact config as the NO on the CH system?

    Actuators powered by the BDR - will these work like the HR92's? And which ones would i spec, i note two sizes (manifold dependent?) and NO/NC too.. presume NC.
    In a nut shell, yes. You've got it.

    Actuators, two wire ones will be fine if you're just doing one zone. You can get 4 wire ones which have their own microswitches, if you wanted to control more areas without a HCC80. But again, won't complicate things here.

    No they don't work like HR92s, they're either open or shut when using a BDR91.

  2. #112
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    So with the actuators, you can spec MT4 or 8's https://theevohomeshop.co.uk/22-unde...ating-controls , i had read that this was the sizings inside 4mm and 8mm?

    Also, this chap in this thread is suggesting that i lose a certain protection mechanism if not using the HSS80 https://www.automatedhome.co.uk/vbul...-Evohome/page2

    To confirm, when/if i upgrade to the HSS80, i will need the 2 wire versions?

  3. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1animal1 View Post
    So with the actuators, you can spec MT4 or 8's https://theevohomeshop.co.uk/22-unde...ating-controls , i had read that this was the sizings inside 4mm and 8mm?

    Also, this chap in this thread is suggesting that i lose a certain protection mechanism if not using the HSS80 https://www.automatedhome.co.uk/vbul...-Evohome/page2

    To confirm, when/if i upgrade to the HSS80, i will need the 2 wire versions?
    That'll depend on your manifold. You generally would get the make that would be for the manifold.

    There's no issues with using a BDR91 to control underfloor.

    The 2 wire ones are the ones you'll need but the 4 wire will also work.

  4. #114
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    Thanks again for this, I've been trawling Google to find as much info as possible. Any pointers on manifold brands and material? (been looking at stainless polypipe) I had also assumed Grundfos was the way to go pump wise....

  5. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1animal1 View Post
    Thanks again for this, I've been trawling Google to find as much info as possible. Any pointers on manifold brands and material? (been looking at stainless polypipe) I had also assumed Grundfos was the way to go pump wise....
    Speedfit or Polypipe. Tend to fit more Polypipe, however Speedfit is just as good. Both come with a Grunfos pump in the Mixing valve/pump packs.

  6. #116
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    Perfect, thanks MTM. I'm going to be lifting the t&g boards, fitting 75mm kingspan between the joists, then fitting the aluminium panels with the pipe grooves, then refitting the t&g boards. Thinking of running the 16mm PEX pipes which seem quite a bit cheaper than 15mm.... Presume minimal difference other than cost.

    For the wiring, the NO valve gets wired in parallel to the NO valve on the CH. The pump and actuators wired to the BDR... Simple as that?

  7. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1animal1 View Post
    Perfect, thanks MTM. I'm going to be lifting the t&g boards, fitting 75mm kingspan between the joists, then fitting the aluminium panels with the pipe grooves, then refitting the t&g boards. Thinking of running the 16mm PEX pipes which seem quite a bit cheaper than 15mm.... Presume minimal difference other than cost.

    For the wiring, the NO valve gets wired in parallel to the NO valve on the CH. The pump and actuators wired to the BDR... Simple as that?
    Personally i'd stick with the 15mm pipe from either Speedfit or Polypipe. The odd system that I have done with 16mm I haven't been impressed with, along with the fact you wouldn't be able to use a Polypipe or Speedfit manifold.

    Can't put tongue and groove back, you need to board with chipboard and glue the joints. I'd then recommend self levelling on top depending on your finished floor. Tongue and groove you'll have too many joints for expansion and contraction and you will get movement. This will affect your finished floor.

    If it's one zone only, then yes you are correct!

  8. #118
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    No you're kidding! About the t&g.... I have come from a house using chip board and hated it, especially in a kitchen where it could get wet. Is this the only way around this? Final finish will be laminate boards

  9. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1animal1 View Post
    No you're kidding! About the t&g.... I have come from a house using chip board and hated it, especially in a kitchen where it could get wet. Is this the only way around this? Final finish will be laminate boards
    Well I wouldn't be putting T&G floorboards back. You other option would be to put plywood down, however you'd need the special underfloor plywood stuff which is a fortune (Due to the layers separating under heat).

  10. #120
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    I think you're talking marine ply, yeah I'll skip that at 50 a sheet... Although I'd be able to park the car in the kitchen with the strength of it

    I'll have to go down the chip board route in that case, presume 18mm t&g boards, bigger the better for less joints...

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