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Thread: Evohome in new build house with 2 zone and HW

  1. #1
    Automated Home Jr Member
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    Default Evohome in new build house with 2 zone and HW

    Hi, 1st post on here.
    Im looking to install Evohome into our 3yr old newbuild.
    Its a medium size 4 bedroom house with 14 rads in total. The current setup is;
    -Glow worm Flexicom 15hx boiler
    -Range Tribune HE 180litre tank with 2 heating zone valves (upstairs and downstairs) and hotwater zone valve
    -Danfoss TP9000 thermostat for downstairs and hot water (located in the hall)
    -Danfoss TP5000 for upstairs located on the landing.
    There are 7 rads downstairs and 7 upstairs, 2 of which are towel rad in the bathroom and en-suite.

    The evohome kit i have in my shopping basket is as follows;
    1 wifi connected thermostat pack - ATP921R3100
    1 wall mount - ATF600
    1 Hot water kit ATF500DHW
    3 Radiator multizone kits - HR924UK (so 12 HR92's in total)

    I plan on running the small radiator in the utility uncontrolled as well as the one in the hall but use the main panel as the thermostat in the hall, then link the 2 HR92's on the rads in the open plan kitchen diner as 1 zone. This will mean all rooms apart from the utility are zoned one way or another, does this sound ok?

    My other question is, as there is currently 2 heating zones, do i need 2 additional BDR91's to control each zone valve or is forcing them to the manual open position and just relying on the BDR91 on the boiler the norm as there is a HR92 on all but 2 rads? was thinking about hot water needing to be pumped around the house everytime 1 rad starts calling or do the pluses outweigh the minuses.
    I also plan on adding an Echo dot to the system at a later date for Alexa control.

    I've attached floor plans of the house to help

    many thanks
    James
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by JamboV6; 22nd October 2017 at 01:23 AM.

  2. #2
    Automated Home Ninja
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    All sounds OK apart from the following -

    - The hall rad, you can't use the EvoTouch as a sensor unless you have an actuator. So you'd have to put a HR92 on the Hall rad if you were wanting to control that zone with the EvoTouch. As other wise there is nothing to control the demand/shut off, and the system won't let you set it up without an actuator.

    - Regarding the Motorised valves - the ideal situation would be to remove both of them as they won't be needed. However you are then in a situation where if you move, change the system in the future these are then gone and would need to be reinstalled. Your best way to do this would be to purchase an additional BDR91 (You don't mention a boiler relay in your purchase list, with what you're describing it would be better with one), and wire the two heating motorised valves together connected to the BDR91. Use another BDR91 as a boiler relay, and then use the third BDR91 on the Hot Water Motorised valve. By doing the following you'll be able to disconnect the S/L from the microswitch (Grey and Orange) on the motorised valves and just use the boiler relay as your demand. Then when a CH demand is created, the boiler relay will come on, and the two motorised valves will open.

    Don't forget when installing the HW kit to leave the current cylinder stat wired in (As it's a dual stat with a safety cut out) and to set it at it's highest point. You can then use the EvoHome to control your required hot water temperature, however should anything fail on the Evohome the existing stat would still cut out the demand from the boiler.

  3. #3
    Automated Home Jr Member
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    Thanks for your detailed reply.
    I didnt mention a boiler relay in my list as one comes with the Evotouch pack (ATP921R3100) so i will have a BDR91 on the boiler

    was unsure about the HR92 requirement for the hall, so thanks for clearing that up.

    So from what you are saying about the 2 CH zone valves, i'll just remove them all together, saves buying another BDR91, i need to drain the system down anyway to swap out 2 TRV bodies.

    cheers for the help.

    im away next week till 2nd week November so wont be installing till then anyway

  4. #4
    Automated Home Ninja Dan_Robinson's Avatar
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    Leave the valves in place, electrically isolated and locked open. Makes life easier if you need to revert the system or move house.

  5. #5
    Automated Home Ninja
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan_Robinson View Post
    Leave the valves in place, electrically isolated and locked open. Makes life easier if you need to revert the system or move house.
    OP - If you aren't wanting to purchase an additional BDR91 to control the valves then this is a better way. I've left in my valves in place should I ever want to revert back to the old system, makes life easier.

  6. #6
    Automated Home Legend paulockenden's Avatar
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    Didn’t someone once post that locked open zone valves are only half open?

    Was that actually true?

    P.

  7. #7
    Automated Home Ninja Dan_Robinson's Avatar
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    They're not fully open, but in practice, a house suitable for Evohome wireless comms is not going to be big enough for that to be an issue, or, will have multiple circuits.
    Kind Regards - Dan Robinson (Jennings Heating Ltd)

  8. #8
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    Apparently the zone valves might seize if left in one position for too long. so what I did was wire them with the boiler pump. So they are open as long as the pump is running.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtmcgavock View Post

    Your best way to do this would be to purchase an additional BDR91 (You don't mention a boiler relay in your purchase list, with what you're describing it would be better with one), and wire the two heating motorised valves together connected to the BDR91. Use another BDR91 as a boiler relay, and then use the third BDR91 on the Hot Water Motorised valve. By doing the following you'll be able to disconnect the S/L from the microswitch (Grey and Orange) on the motorised valves and just use the boiler relay as your demand. Then when a CH demand is created, the boiler relay will come on, and the two motorised valves will open.

    Don't forget when installing the HW kit to leave the current cylinder stat wired in (As it's a dual stat with a safety cut out) and to set it at it's highest point. You can then use the EvoHome to control your required hot water temperature, however should anything fail on the Evohome the existing stat would still cut out the demand from the boiler.
    Back from holiday now so would like to get this sorted in the next week.
    Could i not wire the two heating valves to the boiler BDR91 or would that pull too much current?

    with regards to the HW t/stat are you saying to use the danfoss one instead of the probe supplied with the honeywell kit or use it in parallel additionally?

    thanks

  10. #10
    Automated Home Ninja Dan_Robinson's Avatar
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    And what happens when they conk out
    Kind Regards - Dan Robinson (Jennings Heating Ltd)

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