Evohome 'Newbie' Questions.

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  • ukEvo
    Automated Home Jr Member
    • Jan 2019
    • 11

    Evohome 'Newbie' Questions.

    Apologies if these are simple questions but I haven't been able to locate an answer whilst searching around here.


    Q1. Everything I've checked looks to be set right but my 'Zone 4 Study' shows a demand of 23 deg but an actual temp of 17 deg. The radiator is cold. The valve isn't stuck. The HR92 seems to be paired correctly but does nothing. I have cleared and rebinded the HR92 but there's no difference.

    In the 'Settings - Zone Configuration - 4 Study' menu, I have selected: Heating Type - Radiator Valve, Temp Sensor - Remote Sensor, Window Open - Disabled, Local Override - Enabled, Single Room Zone.

    Any ideas?



    Q2. I have four zones that have two or more rads/HR92's in each. My problem is the same in each; only one radiator heats up in each of these zones.

    When binding them, I did them one at a time and had a 'Success' message for each one. As each zone is large enough to be subject to temp variations at each end, I set each of these zones as multi-room as my understanding was that they could all work away independently of the other/s HR92's.

    For info, the zones are as follows:

    'Zone 1 Kitchen' - has two rads/HR92's at opposite ends of a big kitchen/diner.

    'Zone 5 Master Bedroom' - has two rads/HR92's at opposite ends of the bedroom/dressing area.

    'Zone 3 Hall/Landing & Ground-floor Toilet' - has one rad/HR92 in the hall downstairs, one rad/HR92 in the ground-floor toilet, one rad/HR92 on the first floor landing.

    Again, how might I have set this up wrongly? Any ideas?
    ukEvo 'cos I'm an Evans.
  • DBMandrake
    Automated Home Legend
    • Sep 2014
    • 2361

    #2
    Originally posted by ukEvo View Post
    Apologies if these are simple questions but I haven't been able to locate an answer whilst searching around here.


    Q1. Everything I've checked looks to be set right but my 'Zone 4 Study' shows a demand of 23 deg but an actual temp of 17 deg. The radiator is cold. The valve isn't stuck. The HR92 seems to be paired correctly but does nothing. I have cleared and rebinded the HR92 but there's no difference.
    Are you sure the locking latch at the bottom of the HR92 is clicked over to lock the HR92 from removal ? If not, it won't call for heat or adjust the valve position but there won't be any errors messages either...

    Next things to check assuming that is OK is look at the valve pin position in the HR92 when it should be getting hot - do this by changing option 10 to a 1. This goes from 0% (valve closed) to 100% (valve open) Any reading higher than about 30-35% should start calling for heat and allowing water to flow.

    After that I would check the system summary page in the installer menu (long press on settings) and see what heat demand is show for the zone.

    Q2. I have four zones that have two or more rads/HR92's in each. My problem is the same in each; only one radiator heats up in each of these zones.

    When binding them, I did them one at a time and had a 'Success' message for each one. As each zone is large enough to be subject to temp variations at each end, I set each of these zones as multi-room as my understanding was that they could all work away independently of the other/s HR92's.
    When you say you bound each HR92 one at a time, you didn't go back to the system installer menu between each one did you ?

    When you bind multiple HR92's to a zone it will first ask you for the sensor for the zone - bind the first HR92. It will the ask if you have any "additional actuators", this is when you would bind the second HR92.

    If you just bound the first HR92, completed that and went back to the installer menu, then went into bind another HR92 to that zone it would actually overwrite the first one. All the HR92's must be done in the same binding "session". Does that make sense ?

    Assuming this has been done correctly I would suggest similar to above - go into option 10 and set it to 1 on both HR92's and see what the valve pin position is.

    Keep in mind that in multi-room zone mode each HR92 is using it's own sensor so if different ends of the room are at different temperatures it may be correct that one radiator doesn't need to come on. To rule this out just change the set point to be many degrees higher than the room temperature which should cause both radiators to come on. If not, you do have a problem.

    Comment

    • ukEvo
      Automated Home Jr Member
      • Jan 2019
      • 11

      #3
      Thank you for your response.


      Q1. The locking latch is definitely set correctly. I can hear the HR92 moving but the temp doesn't change; it's as if the valve is stuck but it definitely isn't when there's no HR92 on it. Right now I can see a 100% heat demand but the radiator is cold. It is currently set for 19 deg but is showing an actual temp of 17 deg (and TBH, it feels even colder in that zone).

      I'll change the options you suggested and if that makes no difference, I'll try that HR92 (deleted, unbinded, cleared, new bind etc) in a new zone to see if it is the HR92 that is actually faulty.


      Q2. When binding the second HR92, it was done when the controller asked if I wanted to bind a second HR92, not going back to it afterwards. Actually, I have them sat next to the controller, complete the binding (Success message) and then go and fit them. My only nagging question/doubt now is that I'm pretty sure that this procedure (asking to add another) only happens until two HR92's are added; I really don't recall being asked about the third (Zone 3 Hall, Landing, Ground Floor Toilet). Consequently, I can't now remember how I added the third HR92 to that zone. I'm thinking a complete delete/clear of these three HR92's might be the way forward, then set them up from scratch again.


      It must be something to do with the binding procedure as the same problem affects all 4 zones I have that use more than one HR92.


      I'll report back later.
      ukEvo 'cos I'm an Evans.

      Comment

      • DBMandrake
        Automated Home Legend
        • Sep 2014
        • 2361

        #4
        Originally posted by ukEvo View Post
        Thank you for your response.


        Q1. The locking latch is definitely set correctly. I can hear the HR92 moving but the temp doesn't change; it's as if the valve is stuck but it definitely isn't when there's no HR92 on it. Right now I can see a 100% heat demand but the radiator is cold. It is currently set for 19 deg but is showing an actual temp of 17 deg (and TBH, it feels even colder in that zone).
        I would try the following to further narrow down the issue.

        Make sure the heat demand is 100% (by turning some other zone up high) and then lift the HR92 off the base, leaving the adaptor with the black wheel on the radiator, and turn the black wheel anti-clockwise to it's limit stop. Give it a few minutes and see if the radiator heats up. If it does seem to heat up normally you may benefit from setting stroke (option 6) to 1, which increases the pin travel afforded by the HR92. After changing this setting in the HR92 menu you will need to trigger a re-calibration - remove the HR92 from the base, turn the black wheel anti-clockwise to the limit then refit it and lock it down, about a minute later it will start a calibration.

        If it still doesn't get hot then unscrew the white and black base off the radiator's valve body and give it a few minutes to see if it heats up - if it does, the HR92's adaptor is not compatible with your radiator valve bodies, the most likely reason is that the pin sticking out of the valve body is too long and is thus being pressed down even when the black wheel is fully anti-clockwise. Not all M30x1.5 valve bodies are compatible! There is only about 4mm of pin travel available from the HR92 - and significantly less when stroke is set to the default 0 (about 2mm) so if the length of the pin is more than a couple of millimetres different to Honeywell's reference valves it won't work.

        If it still doesn't get hot with this removed (although you imply that it does) then there is something unrelated to Evohome wrong.

        The name and model of your valve bodies (if you know them!) and a picture of the side profile of the valve body with the HR92 base removed might be helpful for us to see.
        Last edited by DBMandrake; 6 February 2019, 05:18 PM.

        Comment

        • ukEvo
          Automated Home Jr Member
          • Jan 2019
          • 11

          #5
          It seems that I may have sorted 'Zone 1 Kitchen' (2 x HR92's set as multi-room).

          Following your advice, I set a high temperature demand and then removed the bodies of the HR92's and found that both black wheels had a fair bit of anti-clockwise turn until they were at the top. As soon as this was done, the radiators started to warm up very quickly. I then set the parameters Option 6 to value 1 to increase the pin travel.

          So far it seems to have worked fine and resolved the issue.


          I'll try this with 'Zone 3 Hall/Landing/Ground Floor Toilet' first as I'm pretty sure I followed the correct procedure for binding. If it doesn't work then I'll do the whole delete/clear/re-bind process and report back.

          EDIT: already tried it, already fixed it!



          Thanks for your help and advice.
          Last edited by ukEvo; 9 February 2019, 10:50 PM.
          ukEvo 'cos I'm an Evans.

          Comment

          • DBMandrake
            Automated Home Legend
            • Sep 2014
            • 2361

            #6
            Good news.

            It sounds like your valve bodies require more pin travel than the default stroke setting provides to work correctly. I had this issue with my previous Peggler bulldog valves and ironically also with the Honeywell Valencia valves I have fitted now. (Although other users of Honeywell Valencia's claim theirs work fine on stroke 0 - go figure! They definitely don't work very well on my system with stroke set to 0)

            Setting stroke to 1 will in theory reduce battery life slightly but I'm still getting around 1.5 years for a set of Alkaline batteries so that's good enough for me if it makes them work properly.

            Comment

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