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Thread: Evohome Hot water problems

  1. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by bruce_miranda View Post
    Sorry to ask, but why not use the Heating Off button, which is also one click? Is it the HW cycle that you are trying to avoid? Also depending on your pipe runs, 5C detected in a room may not be high enough to avoid freezing. An 7-8C Away might actually be better and also then you have the 5C Off too.
    Heating Off just does as it says, Heating Off. It doesn't turn the HW schedule off, so if you are away it isn't useful unless you want a tank full of HW at home!

    But yes I agree, 5oc isn't high enough. If your room is 5oc then underfloors, in voids etc will be much less especially with draughts. Hence why I have mine on 11oc, I find this the best set point for being away. I then have Heating Off to 8oc in EvoHome settings should anyone accidentally knock it onto this.

  2. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by G4RHL View Post
    The analysis from DBMandrake is helpful and makes lots of sense. Whilst at times I wondered whether interference was the cause of the lost contact with the CS92A I was never convinced for everything else had no problem. It also is not a frequent occurrence but does happen, and not at any particular time other than usually when the HW is off.

    I have been away for a couple of days. I switched all to Away with a minimum setting of 5C. The night before I left to come home I checked and all worked, house was cold and HW was down to about 28C. The morning I departed to return I checked and there was a blank for HW. My guess was the Control Panel had lost contact with the sensor but if I checked again later all would be good. It was. Checking the log when I got home showed that contact had been lost with the sensor around the time that I first checked.

    I have now put lithium batteries in the sensor and may well consider rotating it as in DBMandrake’s case. My sensor is more then the minimum distance from other Evohome gear, it’s Relay is to its left and about the 10 o clock position. The Control Panel is on a different floor, below the sensor and at about the 7 o’clock position to it.
    Touch wood I have had no comms errors since rotating it. (Whereas Lithium batteries alone didn't cure it)

    Whether the polarisation helps may depend on the orientation of the CS92A relative to where the controller is - if the controller is perpendicular to the wall the CS92A is on horizontal polarisation may be fine, but in my case it's approximately 45 degrees to the left, so regardless of whether I fit it on that wall or the one at 90 degrees to the left of that, there is still a 45 degree angle to the controller.

    So in this situation vertical polarisation which is omni-directional in the horizontal plane is going to be a better choice. In my particular case the signal increased by about 15dB by rotating it which is not insignificant.

    If you do try turning yours 90 degrees I'd be interested to know if it helps. It can take a long time to tell for sure though as mine could still go for weeks without problems before... if it goes for a few months without comms errors or overshoots then I might consider it solved.

  3. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtmcgavock View Post
    Without getting off topic I find 5oc is too cold, i've adjusted my Away mode to 11oc - I find it a happy medium between it keeping the house aired and not coming on too often.
    I've set my Away to 10 degrees as well. Heating Off and Away have different use scenarios.

    Heating Off is for summer when you just want to completely turn off the heating schedule but still allow hot water. Since it's summer there's no chance of the house getting extremely cold 5C is OK as an off setting.

    Away mode is when you're away from the house, possibly for extended periods of time, and including winter.

    The default for Away is actually 15C not 5C, as far as I can remember ?

    Useful to know about turning it counter clockwise - I shall fit them that way from now on!
    I'm not guaranteeing that that's optimal for all installations - but on an installation where the system is having comms errors with the CS92A and other things have been checked it's certainly worth trying, even if it looks a little strange!

  4. #74
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    I've finally said goodbye to batteries in my CS92A today. I really cant see why Honeywell thinks a battery powered HW sensor is really essential. There won't be too many HW installations that don't have power close by. And since the BDR91 that goes with it is mains powered, this is hardly a self install product anyway.

  5. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by bruce_miranda View Post
    I've finally said goodbye to batteries in my CS92A today. I really cant see why Honeywell thinks a battery powered HW sensor is really essential. There won't be too many HW installations that don't have power close by. And since the BDR91 that goes with it is mains powered, this is hardly a self install product anyway.
    I take it a small PSU feeding a low charge equivalent to the two batteries has worked and no more lost contact messages in the Control Panel? Or could it be the repositioning of the CS92A to improve the signal direction? Since I changed my batteries to lithium I have not had any messages but it’s very early days.

  6. #76
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    I branched out the PSU used for the controller wall mount. Its rated at 4V 600ma. That voltage is too high, plenty of current. So passed this through an Ultra Low Noise 3V regulator and fed that to the CS92A with no batteries in it. For me this solution wasn't about making the comms of the CS92A more reliable, it was simply removing the need for batteries in it. And since I'm not using another PSU either, I'm quite pleased.

  7. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by bruce_miranda View Post
    I branched out the PSU used for the controller wall mount. Its rated at 4V 600ma. That voltage is too high, plenty of current. So passed this through an Ultra Low Noise 3V regulator and fed that to the CS92A with no batteries in it. For me this solution wasn't about making the comms of the CS92A more reliable, it was simply removing the need for batteries in it. And since I'm not using another PSU either, I'm quite pleased.
    Pleased you got power to it. As you have said it is odd for it to need its own batteries when there are so many devices nearby with power. I have two relays in the same cupboard (HW & CH) plus the three port valve and a power distribution box. A PSU built in somewhere to feed it would be a good approach. My control panel is downstairs so taking a feed from its supply and stepping it down is not really an option. A 3v PSU in the cupboard would be but I will stick to my lithiums for the present. Main reason being that my older boiler is going to need replacing at some stage and then hot water will from the one one direct. I keep saying my boiler will need replacing but it is over 22 years old and still works. Must spray some more silicon grease on the fan mechanism though to quieten it!

  8. #78
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    The really bizarre thing is that the BDR91 itself, can be used to power the CS92A. The circuit inside the BDR91 is all using stepped down DC anyway. That would have been my alternative PSU. But in my case the BDR91s are quite far away from the actual cylinder. You can start seeing why Honeywell decided to make this battery powered, but I still think it could have allowed a mains powered route too, because unlike radiators and thermostats, the cylinder tends to have some power close by...or maybe Honeywell did foresee an installation where DHW cylinders didn't. e.g. No immersion heater and only a NTC sensor for a low powered bus.

  9. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by bruce_miranda View Post
    The really bizarre thing is that the BDR91 itself, can be used to power the CS92A. The circuit inside the BDR91 is all using stepped down DC anyway. That would have been my alternative PSU. But in my case the BDR91s are quite far away from the actual cylinder. You can start seeing why Honeywell decided to make this battery powered, but I still think it could have allowed a mains powered route too, because unlike radiators and thermostats, the cylinder tends to have some power close by...or maybe Honeywell did foresee an installation where DHW cylinders didn't. e.g. No immersion heater and only a NTC sensor for a low powered bus.
    Ive used Evohome as a solution where it hasnít been possible to get a wire to a cylinder cupboard with no power or easy route back to the boiler. Having said that it was probably easy to get a 240v supply there without the need to return to the main wiring box.

  10. #80
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    That's what I mean, most cylinders will have some sort of mains power close to it, certainly as close as the CS92A sensor wire is. But like I said, Honeywell might have gone down the theoretical use case where a DHW cylinder has no unswitched power close by. e.g. My own Unvented cylinder doesn't even have an unswitched power immersion heater because I use my Solar Panels which switches on my immersion heater at the Mains Consumer Unit.

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