Evohome Installation help

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  • sh4d0w
    Automated Home Jr Member
    • Jun 2020
    • 24

    #16
    So i was looking over another forum and came across this plan, looks like the same as i am trying to do, what do you think buddy?
    evohome_LI (2).jpg

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    • mtmcgavock
      Automated Home Legend
      • Mar 2017
      • 507

      #17
      No that diagram isn't correct.

      So the stat on the side of the cylinder - is the dual stat. You need to connect B from you BDR91 to C on the lefthand side stat (this is the High Limit stat). Then the link that goes across in the middle of the stat (So from 2 on the high limit to C on the regular stat). Remove this and connect the wire that would go to the HW MV to the section on the left stat where you have removed the linked wire from (So 2 on the High limit stat).

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      • sh4d0w
        Automated Home Jr Member
        • Jun 2020
        • 24

        #18
        Thank you again. I have learnt so much these last few days!
        Since my last post Ive worked out what you just said with a slight variation...
        I have it down that from my dhw bdr B I go too high limit C then out from 1 on the regular stat on the RIGHT To the brown of my valve. So passing L through the high point and then should limit be reached the L Is killer shutting off the valve.

        In doing what you say above, is there a change to how it works?

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        • mtmcgavock
          Automated Home Legend
          • Mar 2017
          • 507

          #19
          Originally posted by sh4d0w View Post
          Thank you again. I have learnt so much these last few days!
          Since my last post Ive worked out what you just said with a slight variation...
          I have it down that from my dhw bdr B I go too high limit C then out from 1 on the regular stat on the RIGHT To the brown of my valve. So passing L through the high point and then should limit be reached the L Is killer shutting off the valve.

          In doing what you say above, is there a change to how it works?
          No not really, in fact it's better doing it your way - I do this sometimes and just crank the stat to max (So 65oc in your case) but it's depending on how high the regular stat will set and what you set EvoHome at. As if you have it on 65oc on the normal stat and 65oc on Evohome it's possible that your regular stat may cut in before Evohome does - which you don't want. But if your regular stat is set on 65oc and Evohome at 55oc then Evohome should always cut in before the normal stat would usually go to Open circuit.

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          • sh4d0w
            Automated Home Jr Member
            • Jun 2020
            • 24

            #20
            Fabulous. Thank you my mate.
            Just had to turn my boiler off!
            Seems to be all working ok and then I walk downstairs and it’s like an oven.... heating is on at nuclear temperatures. Couldn’t touch the rads. Checked the evohome screen and it didn’t look like it was running. Any idea why that might be buddy?
            I’m a bit reluctant to carry on if it’s not working properly.

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            • mtmcgavock
              Automated Home Legend
              • Mar 2017
              • 507

              #21
              Originally posted by sh4d0w View Post
              Fabulous. Thank you my mate.
              Just had to turn my boiler off!
              Seems to be all working ok and then I walk downstairs and it’s like an oven.... heating is on at nuclear temperatures. Couldn’t touch the rads. Checked the evohome screen and it didn’t look like it was running. Any idea why that might be buddy?
              I’m a bit reluctant to carry on if it’s not working properly.
              Did you remove the 24v link? Check that when Green lights are off on BDR91s there's no demand at the boiler.

              Boiler should only run when there's a Green light on the Boiler Relay BDR91.

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              • sh4d0w
                Automated Home Jr Member
                • Jun 2020
                • 24

                #22
                I didn’t go up to check if the green light was on or not. I did remove the link and bus. I’ll turn it back on again and see what happens.
                We’re all gasping for air it’s that hot now. Oops

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                • sh4d0w
                  Automated Home Jr Member
                  • Jun 2020
                  • 24

                  #23
                  So something is wrong... turned the boiler back on and started firing straight away. Pumping liquid lava through it’s pipes.
                  Checked and there is no green light. The tap light was flashing on the boiler and not the radiator if that means anything. Not sure how it would though.
                  For testing purposes I have just manually opened the valves. Could be that the hot water was calling for heat? But still.... my boiler was running at 100% and the green light on the boiler bdr was NOT on.
                  The highLimit thermostat is now wired in.

                  The Evo home cylinder thermostat is now wired in to the pocket and I have paired it all together.

                  Comment

                  • mtmcgavock
                    Automated Home Legend
                    • Mar 2017
                    • 507

                    #24
                    Originally posted by sh4d0w View Post
                    So something is wrong... turned the boiler back on and started firing straight away. Pumping liquid lava through it’s pipes.
                    Checked and there is no green light. The tap light was flashing on the boiler and not the radiator if that means anything. Not sure how it would though.
                    For testing purposes I have just manually opened the valves. Could be that the hot water was calling for heat? But still.... my boiler was running at 100% and the green light on the boiler bdr was NOT on.
                    The highLimit thermostat is now wired in.

                    The Evo home cylinder thermostat is now wired in to the pocket and I have paired it all together.
                    If the tap symbol is on the screen it means the Vaillant controls are still in control - as it's requesting a DHW rapid reheat. With EvoHome you could only ever get a Radiator symbol on the screen as it can't define between the Rads or DHW reheat on the cylinder.

                    Maybe check your wiring again? Have you removed all the Vaillant Controls and the Wireless receiver out the front?

                    Comment

                    • sh4d0w
                      Automated Home Jr Member
                      • Jun 2020
                      • 24

                      #25
                      Yep. All removed. There wasn’t actually the controls pan in the front, it was a dummy blanking panel, The thermostat receiver is actually in my airing cupboard on the landing connected to my boiler via the two core bus.

                      The only thing that I haven’t disconnected is the temperature probe that was inside my cylinder pocket This probe runs direct to my boiler and connects up on that chockablock.with the two cables.

                      Perhaps it’s that in the way?

                      Comment

                      • mtmcgavock
                        Automated Home Legend
                        • Mar 2017
                        • 507

                        #26
                        Originally posted by sh4d0w View Post
                        Yep. All removed. There wasn’t actually the controls pan in the front, it was a dummy blanking panel, The thermostat receiver is actually in my airing cupboard on the landing connected to my boiler via the two core bus.

                        The only thing that I haven’t disconnected is the temperature probe that was inside my cylinder pocket This probe runs direct to my boiler and connects up on that chockablock.with the two cables.

                        Perhaps it’s that in the way?
                        Yeah when I said remove all Vaillant controls I did mean everything, including the probe.

                        Comment

                        • sh4d0w
                          Automated Home Jr Member
                          • Jun 2020
                          • 24

                          #27
                          Yep. Noted. It was an oversight. Once removed it did then seem much better behaved. The tap symbol disappeared exactly like you said.

                          The boiler then fired up only when the green bdr light was on. BUT, it didn’t seem to respond to the controller. When I turned the heat up it didn’t trigger the boiler.

                          Will have another go this morning and see if it works.

                          Thanks again

                          Comment

                          • sh4d0w
                            Automated Home Jr Member
                            • Jun 2020
                            • 24

                            #28
                            Hello again,
                            Day off yesterday as it my youngest's 8th birthday.

                            Had a few hours spare today so ive wired it all up again and installed 10 HR92's.

                            Hot water seems to be working spot on, when in schedule it calls for heat and it all kicks in fine and hot water thunders through, albeit an awful lot hotter than when using my Vailalint controls, i guess that is modulation for you , what i have found with this though... once it hits target temp the valve doesn't shut off and my boiler continues running, why would this be?

                            More importantly and most annoying is my controller talking to my HR92's, this has a total mind of its own, sometimes its slow others its none existent, i have 5 HRs on my test bench with nothing around them all 50 CM apart and my controller next to them, then i have the other bunch fitted to rads.

                            1) I go to the RAD and manually turn the HR head and i can hear the motor open and i get instant heat flow, 6 seconds later my controller will update and show the new change.
                            2) from my controller i go to the zone and cancel override and/or change the heat setting and this does NOT report back to the HR - the ODD occasion maybe 1 out of 10 attempts it will do .
                            3) From the HR head if i change the temp setting a degree another 6-8 seconds and the temp on my controller changes but FROM the temp on the head not the controller.

                            It seems a one way street here.

                            From my phone app if i change settings it also does not seem to report this on the controller yet sees my zone data.

                            Now, if i go to the RF Comms Check and run a scan for the Heat demand it comes back Good, for Hot Water it comes back Excellent AND then if i test each of my HR's i get Not Received - is this normal? BUT then if i hold the button in on my HR and set it to "Binding" i get a response as Excellent.

                            I am beginning to have doubts on my £1100 investment now.

                            Can you help me please?

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                            • sh4d0w
                              Automated Home Jr Member
                              • Jun 2020
                              • 24

                              #29
                              furthermore, i have just been testing some more, i set all my RAD's to 25C, waited 15 mins, went to check and they had all updated from my controller, went to my zone valves and locked open the downstairs and it worked, one thing i noticed at the same time is the DHW valve was also open and water was passing through, or so it felt. I will double check the wiring of this tomoz but for now i have powered it all down again. Before i did that i went into my loft and checked the BDR, it was green and my boiler was happily doing its thing, i set my controller to "heating off" and after 10 minutes there BDR was still green.

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                              • sh4d0w
                                Automated Home Jr Member
                                • Jun 2020
                                • 24

                                #30
                                Here it is, i have not wired in my two CH Zone Valves at this point for testing purposes, they are locked open manually with lever switch, once i get the system working as it should then i will take brown (live) from both CH ZV back to my CH BDR "B" / 4 UNLESS my wife says she would like the two towel rads heated whenever there is a DHW demand then i can leave them in manual switch OR i guess i could have UPstairs ZV wired back to 8 and Down back to 4 - Unless i have it all wrong?
                                Attached Files
                                Last edited by sh4d0w; 18 June 2020, 01:24 PM.

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