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Thread: HR92 doesn't consistently turn off the heating demand

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by roydonaldson View Post
    When it is at valve 0, try taking the HR92 head off and then seeing if the radiator is still open. If it is, try turning the dial on the top and seeing if it will dial down any further.
    Hello, thanks for taking the time to respond. I had taken the HR92 off, and had manually opened the valve. This evening, I replaced the hr92 head. It appeared to be turning, and went from valve 96% on insert to valve 0 after a while, but radiator was still on. I took the head off again and there was a fair amount of closing to do with the manual closure of the valve.

    I am going to repeat the above again on stroke 1 to see if that helps

  2. #12
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    I had a very similar problem when I first fitted my Evohome. Turns out I was not firing the valve body correctly and so it would never close. Double check the body is fully down and seated on the valve.

  3. #13
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    Did you ever sort this out.
    I have had the exact same problem with one of our radiators and valves.
    The radiator was getting warm all the time even when turned to off.
    I found it hard to manually close the valve and then broke the base plate trying to fully shut the valve.
    I had to order a new valve adapter base plate and now it seems to be working fine.
    The new adapter seems to rotate a lot easier when you turn it than the one I broke.
    It might be worth swapping the valve adapter with another to see if that fixes it.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Billywizzo View Post
    Did you ever sort this out.
    I have had the exact same problem with one of our radiators and valves.
    The radiator was getting warm all the time even when turned to off.
    I found it hard to manually close the valve and then broke the base plate trying to fully shut the valve.
    I had to order a new valve adapter base plate and now it seems to be working fine.
    The new adapter seems to rotate a lot easier when you turn it than the one I broke.
    It might be worth swapping the valve adapter with another to see if that fixes it.
    I recently replaced a couple of radiators. At the same time I put new valves in but with one I noticed the black knob one turns to manually control flow had become stiff. Frequent turning of it with the TRV off the radiator loosened it up. Perhaps WD40 may help but am not sure about the merits of using it. Others here will know. I also found on one radiator, after being fine for a couple of years, would spring off the TRV and I would find it on the floor. This was one where I had to use a Danfoss adaptor. A new adaptor solved it. It seemed that it would come loose in time.

  5. #15
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    Thank you for taking the time to reply. I've tried replacing the adaptor tonight, same one, just screwed on less tightly. I noticed the pin was pushed up a fair amount, so I've tried to "reset" it, and hoping it's going to work better. The setup appears to work for a number of days and then randomly stop, so to me it's something with the pin. I may replace the adaptor and see.

  6. #16
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    Wondered if anyone knows if the pin in the adapter should be able to move.
    Had another radiator warming up when the heating was on for another room and this radiator was set to a colder temp so should not be warming up.
    The pin moving so not fully punishing the valve pin to closed is the only thing I can find that may be stopping the valve being fully closed.
    Everything was fine and now 2 rads have been playing up recently.

  7. #17
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    Here I swapped adaptor valves in the back room and it's better. I've got a few rooms to do that in. The pin should be in contact with the base plate for the rad valve itself

  8. #18
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    The pin in the adapter can be pushed back and fourth, I just wondered if it is meant to be able to move. It moves out when you turn the black dial but then you can just push it flush and wondered if that is normal.

  9. #19
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    If the position reported is <20% and the radiator is still heating you probably have a physical problem with the valve body (seizing up/stiff) or it is not fully compatible with the HR92 in terms of valve pin travel and force required. Not all M30 x1.5 valves that an HR92 can fit will work well with it! (I say this from first hand experience of problems that lead me to changing my valve bodies)

    Some valve bodies might require the Stroke setting to be set to 1 to fully close - this causes it to push down harder and move the pin further between fully closed and fully open. I use this mode on my system. (The drawback is slightly reduced battery life)
    ------------


    Hello, you kindly replied to my post. this winter, this is happening again - same radiators (that I've noticed!). There are 3 that I'm using for "testing". So what happened is, it heats up when it shouldn't - measured temp 20 degrees, target 18 degrees. Valve position is at 0 but radiator is burning hot.

    I had this 5 days ago, and unscrewed the head fully, and the adaptor, then re-screwed it back on, undoing adaptor so it's fully open. Adaptor was mostly partially closed when I started this process. The radiator then turns itself off, and this then appears to work again.

    5 days later, here we are, back to square 1. same symptoms. Valve position 0 but radiator not off.

    This is happening on multiple radiators, heads. I've even changed heads and adaptors before and it still happens. I believe the radiator body is a honeywell on a stelrad radiator

    Please help. After several winters trying to get to the bottom, I'm very close to either giving up on the Evohome in favour of a Tado, or reverting back to normal TRVs

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