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Thread: HR92 doesn't consistently turn off the heating demand

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by roydonaldson View Post
    When it is at valve 0, try taking the HR92 head off and then seeing if the radiator is still open. If it is, try turning the dial on the top and seeing if it will dial down any further.
    Hello, thanks for taking the time to respond. I had taken the HR92 off, and had manually opened the valve. This evening, I replaced the hr92 head. It appeared to be turning, and went from valve 96% on insert to valve 0 after a while, but radiator was still on. I took the head off again and there was a fair amount of closing to do with the manual closure of the valve.

    I am going to repeat the above again on stroke 1 to see if that helps

  2. #12
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    I had a very similar problem when I first fitted my Evohome. Turns out I was not firing the valve body correctly and so it would never close. Double check the body is fully down and seated on the valve.

  3. #13
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    Did you ever sort this out.
    I have had the exact same problem with one of our radiators and valves.
    The radiator was getting warm all the time even when turned to off.
    I found it hard to manually close the valve and then broke the base plate trying to fully shut the valve.
    I had to order a new valve adapter base plate and now it seems to be working fine.
    The new adapter seems to rotate a lot easier when you turn it than the one I broke.
    It might be worth swapping the valve adapter with another to see if that fixes it.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Billywizzo View Post
    Did you ever sort this out.
    I have had the exact same problem with one of our radiators and valves.
    The radiator was getting warm all the time even when turned to off.
    I found it hard to manually close the valve and then broke the base plate trying to fully shut the valve.
    I had to order a new valve adapter base plate and now it seems to be working fine.
    The new adapter seems to rotate a lot easier when you turn it than the one I broke.
    It might be worth swapping the valve adapter with another to see if that fixes it.
    I recently replaced a couple of radiators. At the same time I put new valves in but with one I noticed the black knob one turns to manually control flow had become stiff. Frequent turning of it with the TRV off the radiator loosened it up. Perhaps WD40 may help but am not sure about the merits of using it. Others here will know. I also found on one radiator, after being fine for a couple of years, would spring off the TRV and I would find it on the floor. This was one where I had to use a Danfoss adaptor. A new adaptor solved it. It seemed that it would come loose in time.

  5. #15
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    Thank you for taking the time to reply. I've tried replacing the adaptor tonight, same one, just screwed on less tightly. I noticed the pin was pushed up a fair amount, so I've tried to "reset" it, and hoping it's going to work better. The setup appears to work for a number of days and then randomly stop, so to me it's something with the pin. I may replace the adaptor and see.

  6. #16
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    Wondered if anyone knows if the pin in the adapter should be able to move.
    Had another radiator warming up when the heating was on for another room and this radiator was set to a colder temp so should not be warming up.
    The pin moving so not fully punishing the valve pin to closed is the only thing I can find that may be stopping the valve being fully closed.
    Everything was fine and now 2 rads have been playing up recently.

  7. #17
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    Here I swapped adaptor valves in the back room and it's better. I've got a few rooms to do that in. The pin should be in contact with the base plate for the rad valve itself

  8. #18
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    The pin in the adapter can be pushed back and fourth, I just wondered if it is meant to be able to move. It moves out when you turn the black dial but then you can just push it flush and wondered if that is normal.

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