If the position reported is <20% and the radiator is still heating you probably have a physical problem with the valve body (seizing up/stiff) or it is not fully compatible with the HR92 in terms of valve pin travel and force required. Not all M30 x1.5 valves that an HR92 can fit will work well with it! (I say this from first hand experience of problems that lead me to changing my valve bodies)
Some valve bodies might require the Stroke setting to be set to 1 to fully close - this causes it to push down harder and move the pin further between fully closed and fully open. I use this mode on my system. (The drawback is slightly reduced battery life)
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Hello, you kindly replied to my post. this winter, this is happening again - same radiators (that I've noticed!). There are 3 that I'm using for "testing". So what happened is, it heats up when it shouldn't - measured temp 20 degrees, target 18 degrees. Valve position is at 0 but radiator is burning hot.
I had this 5 days ago, and unscrewed the head fully, and the adaptor, then re-screwed it back on, undoing adaptor so it's fully open. Adaptor was mostly partially closed when I started this process. The radiator then turns itself off, and this then appears to work again.
5 days later, here we are, back to square 1. same symptoms. Valve position 0 but radiator not off.
This is happening on multiple radiators, heads. I've even changed heads and adaptors before and it still happens. I believe the radiator body is a honeywell on a stelrad radiator
Please help. After several winters trying to get to the bottom, I'm very close to either giving up on the Evohome in favour of a Tado, or reverting back to normal TRVs
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I posted this a few weeks ago, and as it's an old thread, it didn't seem to work. I'm still having issues and have been swapping the heads in order to diagnose and still no real pattern. The only thing I can think of is when I take the heads of, the pins is produding, i.e, if I push it in with a flat body, it pushes in, so could it be that my adapters are not working? If so, what is an alternative adapter to one sold with the HR92
Some valve bodies might require the Stroke setting to be set to 1 to fully close - this causes it to push down harder and move the pin further between fully closed and fully open. I use this mode on my system. (The drawback is slightly reduced battery life)
------------
Hello, you kindly replied to my post. this winter, this is happening again - same radiators (that I've noticed!). There are 3 that I'm using for "testing". So what happened is, it heats up when it shouldn't - measured temp 20 degrees, target 18 degrees. Valve position is at 0 but radiator is burning hot.
I had this 5 days ago, and unscrewed the head fully, and the adaptor, then re-screwed it back on, undoing adaptor so it's fully open. Adaptor was mostly partially closed when I started this process. The radiator then turns itself off, and this then appears to work again.
5 days later, here we are, back to square 1. same symptoms. Valve position 0 but radiator not off.
This is happening on multiple radiators, heads. I've even changed heads and adaptors before and it still happens. I believe the radiator body is a honeywell on a stelrad radiator
Please help. After several winters trying to get to the bottom, I'm very close to either giving up on the Evohome in favour of a Tado, or reverting back to normal TRVs
----
I posted this a few weeks ago, and as it's an old thread, it didn't seem to work. I'm still having issues and have been swapping the heads in order to diagnose and still no real pattern. The only thing I can think of is when I take the heads of, the pins is produding, i.e, if I push it in with a flat body, it pushes in, so could it be that my adapters are not working? If so, what is an alternative adapter to one sold with the HR92
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