Optimisation

[top brake]

And the "old" version ? As I say it seems to keep adjusting but it would be nice to have confirmation.

old version?

[peterf]

Oh sorry. I meant the non wifi version. Just to clarify, I believe that it's all working fine for me on my current set up and I've no complaints about the optimisation at all. This implies that it's continually adjusting as with your wifi version but other posts elsewhere have indicated that the latest wifi update changed some aspect of optimisation.

I'm just curious, what that change might be.

As I don't have an OpenTherm system, if I manually change the boiler output temperature down following a cold snap, I'd expect to see a period of adjustment and I believe that that's what I experience, but in the light of other posts I'd like some reassurance that I'm not imagining it. The main effect when the output temperature is reduced is that the optimisation- off kicks in too early initially and then it adjusts.

Although my join date on this forum is Jan 2015, I've been reading posts for a lot longer and I've always been puzzled by the comments on optimisation not working when I reckon that this is one of the system's best features and it's always worked very well for me. I don't think that there's anything odd in my system - 20 radiators with all but two Evohome TRVs. Main bedroom, which is the one I'm most aware of, 50m2 east facing, set to 20.5C at 7:00am, comes on at between 5:50am and 6:50am depending on the time of year and is at or within 0.5C at 7:00am. Other rooms seem to work similarly well.

Just puzzled by the disparity in experience but just to reiterate the question, can you confirm that the pre-wifi model does continuous fine tunes?

[top brake]

Oh sorry. I meant the non wifi version. Just to clarify, I believe that it's all working fine for me on my current set up and I've no complaints about the optimisation at all. This implies that it's continually adjusting as with your wifi version but other posts elsewhere have indicated that the latest wifi update changed some aspect of optimisation.

I'm just curious, what that change might be.

As I don't have an OpenTherm system, if I manually change the boiler output temperature down following a cold snap, I'd expect to see a period of adjustment and I believe that that's what I experience, but in the light of other posts I'd like some reassurance that I'm not imagining it. The main effect when the output temperature is reduced is that the optimisation- off kicks in too early initially and then it adjusts.

Although my join date on this forum is Jan 2015, I've been reading posts for a lot longer and I've always been puzzled by the comments on optimisation not working when I reckon that this is one of the system's best features and it's always worked very well for me. I don't think that there's anything odd in my system - 20 radiators with all but two Evohome TRVs. Main bedroom, which is the one I'm most aware of, 50m2 east facing, set to 20.5C at 7:00am, comes on at between 5:50am and 6:50am depending on the time of year and is at or within 0.5C at 7:00am. Other rooms seem to work similarly well.

Just puzzled by the disparity in experience but just to reiterate the question, can you confirm that the pre-wifi model does continuous fine tunes?

Yes indeed
All generations of evohome, CM900 series and Sundial RF models. Any Honeywell product with Optimum start.

[private4587]

Hi DanD i have just got myself a raspberry Pi2 and want to use it to monitor my heating system, your use of the program Domoticz sounds just what i need. But as I am a complete novice to this i was wondering if you could explain in laymans terms how to go about this.

Many Thanks
Peter

[DanD]

Hi Peter,

I'm not quite sure where to start as it sounds like you're just starting out with your raspberry pi, but hopefully these links are a helpful starting point. I'm running Domoticz on a windows laptop rather than using a raspberry pi with linux, but I'll try my best to help. I've set-up Evohome in Domoticz using both the scripting method (described as 'scripting via RFG100' on the wiki) which connects to the mytotalconnect website and also using the HGI80 usb device which connects directly to the Evohome wireless network. You'll be using the scripting method to connect.


1. Set up Domoticz on your raspberry pi by following the steps in this link :

https://www.domoticz.com/wiki/Domoticz_RaspberryPi_SD_Image

Once you've got this working, confirm that it's all set-up OK by accessing the Domoticz server on your raspberry pi from another computer on your home network via a browser (default 127.0.0.1:8080).

2. Set up your Evohome within Domoticz using the 'Scripting for RFG100' steps from this link (it doesn't matter whether you have the newer wifi evohome controller rather than the RFG100 gateway as the steps are identical):

https://www.domoticz.com/wiki/Evohome

The wiki mentions setting evo-update.sh to run every minute, but I've set this to every 5mins and this seems adequate. Let me know if you need some more details to help with some of these steps and I'll try to help, but my debian linux knowledge is pretty limited.

Dan

[paulockenden]

The biggest problem with getting Domoticz running on a Pi, assuming you want to use an HGI80 rather than the web service, is getting the drivers to work. But to be fair, the same is true for Windows machine, where the TI drivers can be a pain.

P.

[paulockenden]

Incidentally, one of the big advantages of using an HGI80 rather than the API is that you get proper temperatures reported, with 0.1 degree increments. This is because it's seeing the data as reported by the HR92s and room stats directly. If you use the API the temperatures have been 'adjusted' by the Evohome controller, meaning you get 0.5 degree granularity with a bias towards the setpoint.

[DanD]

The biggest problem with getting Domoticz running on a Pi, assuming you want to use an HGI80 rather than the web service, is getting the drivers to work. But to be fair, the same is true for Windows machine, where the TI drivers can be a pain.

P.

Thanks for reminding me. I'd forgotten that this was a bit of a pain. For my Windows set-up I followed the really helpful guidance in this post which describes how to edit the TI3410 divers after downloading them directly from the TI website:

https://www.domoticz.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4072&start=60

Incidentally, one of the big advantages of using an HGI80 rather than the API is that you get proper temperatures reported, with 0.1 degree increments. This is because it's seeing the data as reported by the HR92s and room stats directly. If you use the API the temperatures have been 'adjusted' by the Evohome controller, meaning you get 0.5 degree granularity with a bias towards the setpoint.

Totally agree! I really like the detailed information that's available via the HGI80. Sorry to go off topic, but thought I'd also mention that I've just started to try and tweak the Domoticz code myself at the moment as I don't find that it handles a couple of multi-room zones correctly with my set-up and I'm trying to fix this.
Dan

[paulockenden]

For my Windows set-up I followed the really helpful guidance in this post which describes how to edit the TI3410 divers after downloading them directly from the TI website:

Depends on the version of Windows. If you have Windows 10 with a Secure Boot Policy you can't flip Windows into test mode in order to use unsigned drivers.

It's a pain in the bum!

P.