I'm new to home automation but am planning to spend a small fortune and install Evohome in my bungalow to control my heating and would appreciate feedback on my proposed setup and queries.
I have an Ideal Vogue gas combi boiler, 5 radiators and 2 wet underfloor zones that have there own pump and manifold with 5 actuators.
An ATC928G3000 will control the new set up with a R8810A1018 Open Therm Bridge connected to the boiler.
My plan is to put HR92s on each of the 5 radiators. There is a Honeywell 2 port valve that currently controls the flow to the radiators. Will I need a BDR91 to control this or can it be permanently set open or removed? I'm assuming that it will no longer be needed because the HR92s will shut off the flow when the radiators don't need heat.
There is currently a 6th small radiator in an airing cupboard that has lock valves that permanently allow a small flow. This is on the boiler side of the 2 port valve. Is this OK, or do I need to install an automatic bypass valve?
The existing underfloor heating controller will be replaced by an HCE80. Horribly expensive! If the ATC928G3000 is just the other side of a wall, will I need the HRA80 External Aerial?
Currently there is no valve that prevents hot water that is called for by the radiators going into the underfloor circuit. I'm assuming that I dont need a valve because when the underfloor is not calling for heat, the underfloor pump is off and the manifold actuators are all shut and no problem is caused. Am I right about that? I think its a standard manifold, pump and mixer valve set up.
Each of the 2 underfloor zones will have a DTS92 thermostat. One of the zones is a bathroom and an ensuite shower room where condensation is normal. I'm told the thermostat should therefore be positioned outside these rooms to protect it, but this obviously stops it taking the correct temperature. Is it possible to have this zone without a thermostat? I want to schedule for a nice warm floor in the morning but the rest of the time it's OK unheated (subject to change by the wife).
We dont live in a particularly large bungalow (4 bedrooms) so I expect not to have a problem with signal strength but having said that I do have an internet extender to get the WiFi signal between the opposite far corners. I expect to place the ATC928G3000 pretty well in the middle. I know the Evohome Shop can provide a strength tester but want to keep the cost down where I can. Any thoughts?
This missive has ended up longer than I anticipated when I started. I shall be very pleased if I get answers to all of this. Thanks in advance.
I have an Ideal Vogue gas combi boiler, 5 radiators and 2 wet underfloor zones that have there own pump and manifold with 5 actuators.
An ATC928G3000 will control the new set up with a R8810A1018 Open Therm Bridge connected to the boiler.
My plan is to put HR92s on each of the 5 radiators. There is a Honeywell 2 port valve that currently controls the flow to the radiators. Will I need a BDR91 to control this or can it be permanently set open or removed? I'm assuming that it will no longer be needed because the HR92s will shut off the flow when the radiators don't need heat.
There is currently a 6th small radiator in an airing cupboard that has lock valves that permanently allow a small flow. This is on the boiler side of the 2 port valve. Is this OK, or do I need to install an automatic bypass valve?
The existing underfloor heating controller will be replaced by an HCE80. Horribly expensive! If the ATC928G3000 is just the other side of a wall, will I need the HRA80 External Aerial?
Currently there is no valve that prevents hot water that is called for by the radiators going into the underfloor circuit. I'm assuming that I dont need a valve because when the underfloor is not calling for heat, the underfloor pump is off and the manifold actuators are all shut and no problem is caused. Am I right about that? I think its a standard manifold, pump and mixer valve set up.
Each of the 2 underfloor zones will have a DTS92 thermostat. One of the zones is a bathroom and an ensuite shower room where condensation is normal. I'm told the thermostat should therefore be positioned outside these rooms to protect it, but this obviously stops it taking the correct temperature. Is it possible to have this zone without a thermostat? I want to schedule for a nice warm floor in the morning but the rest of the time it's OK unheated (subject to change by the wife).
We dont live in a particularly large bungalow (4 bedrooms) so I expect not to have a problem with signal strength but having said that I do have an internet extender to get the WiFi signal between the opposite far corners. I expect to place the ATC928G3000 pretty well in the middle. I know the Evohome Shop can provide a strength tester but want to keep the cost down where I can. Any thoughts?
This missive has ended up longer than I anticipated when I started. I shall be very pleased if I get answers to all of this. Thanks in advance.
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