HR92 misbehaving

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  • rachelism
    Automated Home Jr Member
    • Feb 2021
    • 13

    HR92 misbehaving

    If the position reported is <20% and the radiator is still heating you probably have a physical problem with the valve body (seizing up/stiff) or it is not fully compatible with the HR92 in terms of valve pin travel and force required. Not all M30 x1.5 valves that an HR92 can fit will work well with it! (I say this from first hand experience of problems that lead me to changing my valve bodies)

    Some valve bodies might require the Stroke setting to be set to 1 to fully close - this causes it to push down harder and move the pin further between fully closed and fully open. I use this mode on my system. (The drawback is slightly reduced battery life)
    ------------


    Hello, you kindly replied to my post. this winter, this is happening again - same radiators (that I've noticed!). There are 3 that I'm using for "testing". So what happened is, it heats up when it shouldn't - measured temp 20 degrees, target 18 degrees. Valve position is at 0 but radiator is burning hot.

    I had this 5 days ago, and unscrewed the head fully, and the adaptor, then re-screwed it back on, undoing adaptor so it's fully open. Adaptor was mostly partially closed when I started this process. The radiator then turns itself off, and this then appears to work again.

    5 days later, here we are, back to square 1. same symptoms. Valve position 0 but radiator not off.

    This is happening on multiple radiators, heads. I've even changed heads and adaptors before and it still happens. I believe the radiator body is a honeywell on a stelrad radiator

    Please help. After several winters trying to get to the bottom, I'm very close to either giving up on the Evohome in favour of a Tado, or reverting back to normal TRVs

    ----

    I posted this a few weeks ago, and as it's an old thread, it didn't seem to work. I'm still having issues and have been swapping the heads in order to diagnose and still no real pattern. The only thing I can think of is when I take the heads of, the pins is produding, i.e, if I push it in with a flat body, it pushes in, so could it be that my adapters are not working? If so, what is an alternative adapter to one sold with the HR92
  • therealfronty
    Automated Home Guru
    • May 2021
    • 140

    #2
    Did you try full stroke mode?

    Comment

    • rachelism
      Automated Home Jr Member
      • Feb 2021
      • 13

      #3
      sadly, yes. doesn't seem to make a difference

      Comment

      • DBMandrake
        Automated Home Legend
        • Sep 2014
        • 2361

        #4
        Originally posted by rachelism View Post
        Hello, you kindly replied to my post. this winter, this is happening again - same radiators (that I've noticed!). There are 3 that I'm using for "testing". So what happened is, it heats up when it shouldn't - measured temp 20 degrees, target 18 degrees. Valve position is at 0 but radiator is burning hot.

        I had this 5 days ago, and unscrewed the head fully, and the adaptor, then re-screwed it back on, undoing adaptor so it's fully open. Adaptor was mostly partially closed when I started this process. The radiator then turns itself off, and this then appears to work again.

        5 days later, here we are, back to square 1. same symptoms. Valve position 0 but radiator not off.

        This is happening on multiple radiators, heads. I've even changed heads and adaptors before and it still happens. I believe the radiator body is a honeywell on a stelrad radiator

        Please help. After several winters trying to get to the bottom, I'm very close to either giving up on the Evohome in favour of a Tado, or reverting back to normal TRVs
        If you have stroke mode set to 1 in the HR92's, and they are reporting valve position 0% in option 10 (fully closed) and the radiator is still continuing to heat up then your valve bodies are either faulty or incompatible with the HR92's. (or if you need an adaptor for your valve type it may not be fitting properly)

        Either way it means swapping the valve body the HR92 screws down onto to a type that is known to be compatible with HR92's.

        The HR92's can't do their job if they can't physically control the valve body properly and not all M30x15 valve bodies are compatible with HR92's even though they might look like they fit.

        As an example my system originally had cheap Peggler Bulldog valves and they seemed to work at first but after a few months I started seeing similar problems were certain zones would keep overheating because the HR92 couldn't seem to shut the valves properly - removing them and refitting them to recalibrate them would work for a couple of days then the room would start overheating again. Changing valve bodies fixed the issue.

        Are there any brand/model numbers of the valve bodies that you can identify ?
        Last edited by DBMandrake; 19 January 2022, 11:33 AM.

        Comment

        • rachelism
          Automated Home Jr Member
          • Feb 2021
          • 13

          #5
          Hello,

          No I couldn't see a valve body marking 2022-01-19 10.57.56.jpg. I have attached a picture instead, hoping this helps me work out next steps.

          My heating engineering usually uses honeywell valve bodies, but I could be wrong

          Looking forward to your views on how to diagnose these before I revert to normal TRVs!

          Kind regards,
          Rachel

          Comment

          • Billywizzo
            Automated Home Jr Member
            • Nov 2020
            • 48

            #6
            I guess you have tried just closing the valve with the adaptor and seeing if the radiator still heats up.
            My similar issue was the adapter had failed and the pin was loose, like you mentioned, so I ordered new adapters and all good.
            I just found then for sale on ebay at the time.

            Comment

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